I've got them too... Great wheels IMO...

I thought the whole point was - We are discussing Ben's situation and options on how Ben will install his BA engine.

Being he has now stated he will not be touching his current setup, Maybe these modded stub axles are the way to go for him?

Not at an estimated $1100 per pair they won't be. And then you still have to get all the BA bolt ons, brakes, calipers, uprights, upper control arms etc.

I am quite happy with the brakes as they are for now.

Cheers
BenJ

Bloody hell that is dear. I wonder how many people would actually be willing to fork out that much cash for that?

if you get some AUII+ brakes for free 1100 would be a good price.

You can take the sacrificial route with e series brakes...

Metal pads of some sort... many people swear by EBC greenstuffs etc.

You chew out the rotors pretty fast with certain pads but do stop better. New rotors are so cheap now it's almost as easy as machining the old ones.

imo, unless your a maniac or doing track work? there is no need to spend thousands of dollars on brake upgrades....
some slotted rotors, decent pads and some braided lines will do the job fine on a street car...

Agreed.

BenJ

I'm a little with Ben & Troy...

Take for example a like mine without ABS...

If you can stand on the pedal hard enough to look the front wheels up with the factory brakes (as I've done on occasion) this is the limit of traction on the front wheels... So bigger better brakes means what exactly? That its easier to lock them up all the more? Does this seem to you it make it more unsafe because you are more likely to lock them up? Fair enough if you have girly legs I suppose and can't stand on the pedal hard enough

And with ABS is the same case... You can only break til ABS pushes your foot off the pedal... If you can get ABS to engage with std brakes then what do bigger brakes achieve?

On a race car I can understand so you can get more brakes with having to break so hard as you are using that for every corner... Surely you don't come to a screaming halt every time you break in your car?

To me the factory brakes work fine... With 8" wheels and 235 tires (pretty average quality atm as that what came with the rims) I can fine heaps of traction and I'd reckon I could damn near pull up as good as a modern car, would love to try actually just to test the theory...

As Troy said...

Slotted rotors, decent pads, I'm unsure whether braid lines are worth the cost as I can't see much improvement? Are they any good or not for the cost?

Only other I recommend is the V8 or XR booster (same booster) as its twin diaphragm and does make a difference, its smaller diameter so getting on is no hassles, getting the old one out is the hard bit... And it just fits the EL clruise module (as EF & EL has the POS plastic one and didn't come out with a twin diaphragm that I've seen?)

Cheers,
Tim

without going to technical and to far off topic in bens thread.(sorry ben)
the main advantage of bigger brakes is the ability to stay cooler for longer,
when on a track /curcuit your constantly on the brakes hard, the larger brakes have a larger pad and rotor surface meaning it takes more to get them hot and the larger surface area allows them to cool faster than std brakes..
and with our e series brakes, they are still good enough for a few hard stops at speed before they fade away..

ah... didn't think about point... makes sense though... the old brake fade...

Really wanna be justified for thousands of dollars to upgrade wouldn't it... certainly not an upgrade i'll be rushing out to do...

That's cool Troyman.

And I agree.

If this sort of brake upgrade was achievable for under $500, it is something I would give serious consideration too. But, at upwards of $1500, there is no chance.

Cheers
BenJ

also having a bigger surface area to grip onto will also allow the car to stop faster without pushing the braking system to the point of lock up..

to get what i mean, imagine a set of push bike pads on a car... they will take forever to stop a car. then line it up next to a GT-P with 6 pot calipers and see how fast it stops. having a bigger clamping area will stop the wheel quicker as there is more force stopping the wheel.

so its not saying you will lock up your wheels easier as there will be no need to push your foot through the floor to make it stop

yes I covered that above that the bigger the pad surface area the less effort required on the pedal to get the same friction between the pad and rotor, up to a point (same concept as the wider the tires on your car the more traction, up to a point where the weight is dispersed over such a larg area and you get the point where the traction goes backwards, same as how things on tracks don't get bogged, weight is spread over more area)... Also the further away from the axle the pads are the more mechanical advantage is applied to the disc...

However what I was saying is a set of brakes is only as good as the traction on the front tires... once you lock the front tires the friction is lost basically...

So if a set of ED brakes lock the wheels, and a set of GT brakes lock the wheels they are as good as each other... As maximum braking is achieved right before the wheels lock up... The rate of deceleration is the same so the braking is identical... Regardless how many pistons, or how much pad there is... But to do this you have to apply more force to the ED brakes than the GT brakes...

So you want good braking with less leg effort, as for a race car where every corner you want to brake as late and as close to lock up as possible... Yeah go with big brakes... You around town car that you might slam the brakes on occasionally to avoid an accident... Wouldn't a set of std brakes suffice?

If you came to a screaming halt at every corner like a race car does you obviously got heaps of money to keep replacing tires and pads so you'd have the expensive brakes too...

Cheers,
Tim

All very good points.

I think the BA front brake setup would be a worthwhile upgrade is because you will get better stopping power with the standard BA setup. Pads will be reasonably priced as they make them by the container load.

And if you wanted to throw on a set of larger territory rotors and calipers, you will still be able to buy the standard territory pads cheaper than buying a set of brembos, expensive rotors and sports pads to suit them.

Its not like its even a special brake setup. Its a standard BA brake system. If the brakes in the E series was good enough, ford would have carried them over to the AU, BA and so on. I think its a necessary upgrade since you are planning to upgrade to BA power.

Granted there is an initial cost and time with the car off the road to make it happen. But I thought you had another wagon you can use to trial fit everything before you perform the swap on the EB?

How long do you think you need to do the engine swap once you have everything prepared? Surely pick a part has a few BA's you can get the necessary parts cheap enough to do it?

With the brakes and cable clutch setup in my NF, the pressure is evenly balanced between both pedals. If I went the BA brake upgrade, I may need to upgrade to hydraulic clutch to even it out