Nice wagon BenJ just been reading your thread done alot of good things to it.
Keep up the good work

BA DOHC 19 - Front Dress - Clutch Cable - Pwr Steering

Progress has been slow and steady. I have been doing bits and pieces as I get motivated and the weather permits. But there is no hurry and I am enjoying the ability to think things through as I go. All the bits of the puzzle are coming together and falling into place nicely.

Front Dress

I decided that now I have the correct BA Power Steering and A/C pumps I should bolt them to the engine.

Excellent idea, until one realises they don't actually have the bolts! LOL

A quick trip to the local Parts Playground provided all of the factory items needed courtesy of a dead BA Taxi.

I fitted up the BA Serpentine Belt also supplied by said Taxi.



Clutch Cable Sump Mod

The BA uses a hydraulic clutch from factory, but the sump has casting marks where the clutch cable would go and the engine plate has provision for the cable as well.



I rotated the engine plate around so I could get access to the rear of the offending area and made some marks.



After a fair bit of thought followed by some judicious use of a drill and a grinder this was the result. The engine plate is now in the correct orientation.



Plenty of clearance now.

Power Steering

Now that I am using the BA Pwr Steering pump, I needed to give some thought to connecting the BA Pump to the E Series Rack. Discussions with various enthusiasts ended up with me considering a custom solution, which long term would be the most desirable option.

However, early on I had been in touch with a fellow in QLD who has done the BARRA conversion previously into an EB, and he said he modded the end of the BA Pressure Line and got it to work.

Seeing as the same Taxi had provided me with a donor BA Pressure Line to play with I thought I would just have a go. The biggest issue is that the BA Line joins the BA rack from the back, unlike the E Series which connects from the front. Meaning the BA connector points practically 180 degrees in the wrong direction. Having nothing to loose I screwed in the BA hose to the E Series Rack and with a bit of muscle bent it like a pretzel without cracking the pipe.



I then compared the BA Pressure Switch to the E Series Switch, noting the thread was the same, and promptly screwed the BA Pressure Switch into the E Series Rack. WIN! The BA uses a 5 volt signal and the E Series uses a 12 volt one. I will find a bolt to block of the std BA Pressure switch location.






I have also made progress with the wiring, but that will follow soon in another update.

Cheers
BenJ

Nice update. Why the mods for the clutch cable, sticking with one for now?

Cheers

ToranaGuy

A hydraulic conversion is planned in the future, but for now will stay with the clutch cable as it does actually work, most of the time.

Cheers
BenJ

nice

ben. i was under the impresstion and from memory that the e series block had a single hole drill to the correct size for thecable to pass threw or am i thinking of the bell housing?

You are thinking of the bellhousing.

Cheers
BenJ

BA DOHC 20 - Wiring

Seeing as the wiring is a bit more involved I thought it would be best for a separate post.

The engine bay wiring loom is now 98% complete. I am yet to do final continuity testing, which I want to do before wrapping it all up with tape etc.

I wanted the engine bay loom to be plug and play as much as possible while leaving the standard loom untouched in case I needed to reverse the conversion quickly.

I have succeeded with the design phase of this goal, and believe it will work well in practice.

Following are a series of photos of the various connections I made. Hopefully this will be of some use for anyone who would like to attempt this themselves. The plugs used are from donor cars, or purchased from Jaycar or Supercheap Auto.

Overall pic of mostly completed loom. Missing lines for the A/C Pump and the Purge Solenoid.


The light grey plug (AU BBM) is the Earth plug. It divides from a single 25amp line into six smaller wires, and on the other side rejoins to one wire. This should help if any one connection breaks down.

The black plug (EF BBM) runs all of the signal wires for the throttle pedal, power steering pressure switch, HEGO, Fuel Pump and signal return.


The big black plug (AU Eng Loom) has all of the 12v Perm and 12v Ign as well as the OBD11 wires. The single black plug with the yellow wire is the starter motor solenoid crank wire. The black plug with the red and white wires is for the E Series Oil pressure and the tacho signal from the tacho module.


The black plug with the white wire will join the Speed Signal wire. The round connector plugs into the EB/ED manifold loom plug and uses some of the existing wires, starter solenoid, tacho, E Series water temp and 12v Ign signal, as well as other existing wires to be reused for other purposes. These wires will exit near the ECU and will the OBD11 plug will connect here. The accompanying small square plug, you can't quite see it, connects the E Series Oil Pressure Switch to the Cluster.


The small whit plug connects to the Tacho Module.


This grey plug routes the thermo fan wires.


This plug will be connected later to the cruise control switches etc.


This is the plug to the BA A/C Pump. The E Series ECU will still run the EL Climate Control.


This is the plug for the Charcoal Canister Purge Solenoid. The BA PCM will control this.


This is the adapter plug I built to intercept the Speed Signal from the gearbox. You can also see the EB/ED manifold plug connected to the BA Loom.


This shows the unused wires from the BA PCM and engine. I have bundled them up with labels in case I need them later on.


I decided to add in a fuse box. There are fuses for the three permanent 12v connections, as well as three for the 12v Ign lines, one for the Injectors, one for the coil packs, and the last for the PCM. The two relays trigger from 12v Ign when the key is turned on and feed from the battery direct. Considering the age of the cars, I thought it best to provide a good clean power supply to the PCM and engine. I mounted them where the E Series Map Sensor would normally be.


And lastly an overall picture.



The next step is to supply some power and conduct some testing. The throttle pedal needs to be wired up for testing too, and I am considering leaving the fuel pump control with the E Series ECU.

On another note, Troyman came and collected the T5 he loaned me. Many thanks my friend.

I have now bolted up a BTR without a torque converter for testing purposes.


Cheers
BenJ

Hmmm Troy picked up a T5 and you now have a BTR with no convertor in it?
Does this mean what I think it does?

Wiring is looking good too.

The BTR was in the ED Ghia, and the converter is sitting on the ground nearby.

I will be able to start the Barra and not need to worry about oil etc in the BTR. The coolant lines have been, errr, trimmed appropriately.

Cheers
BenJ

Great update Ben! Love the work.

Cheers

ToranaGuy

Car looked good this morning driving through the roundabout on hammers road mate!
Keep up the killer effort!

hey
with the cat pipe wen bolting it to the exhaust manifold it might not bolt up properly cause the angle of the bend is different to a b series pipe and it might hit where the trans bolts up to the engine
sorry if ur already addressed this issue lol
gus

Thanks for your input.

I am pleased to advise the E Series cat bolts up neatly to the B Series exhaust manifold. However, what I have found is that the B Series exhaust manifold outlet is further forward on the engine compared to an E Series, leaving a 30mm gap between then end of the cat pipe, and the rest of the exhaust where it attaches to the transmission support bracket.

Cheers
BenJ

wen i bolted mine to the rest of the exhaust it didnt line up and was leaking at the manifold but yea it sits more forward..