Waiting for gas hookup was a little boring wasn't it.

So, How goes it? All done, up & running?
Now that you've done your wagon, when should we start dropping off our Falcons to be converted to Barra power?
Cheers,
Grant.

i heard it running today, last i heard ben was taking it on its maiden voyage..

im sure updates are coming real soon...

dam this is awesome the future of E series modding is here me thinks

Its been a popular conversion for a few years now.

i know i know

i just showed and asked my dad if we could do it , and he pretty much told me to buy a XR6 turbo...

some people just don't understand us car modders

BA DOHC 40 - Conversion Complete!!!!!

Well, it is DONE!

A number of small detail jobs added up to most of a days work in the end.

SWC welded up the exhaust using stock EB pipes and a spare catylic converter he had.

I got to work bolting in the BA-EB A/C pipes but came to a abrupt halt when I found the BA A/C pressure switch and plug wanted to be in the same physical space as the LPG regulator supply outlet.

Hmmmm.

After a bit of head scratching, I moved the regulator forward by 15mm, and problem solved. It all fits like a puzzle. God help me if I have to fix or replace anything.

I finished mounting the A/C pipes and sorted a few other odds and ends, like vacuum fittings, air intake and snorkle. Interestingly, the snorkle had to be moved 30mm towards the passenger side due to the extra width of the BA head.

You may have noticed in yesterdays pics, some bluetack and texta marks on the front of the rocker cover. This is due to the fact that despite the block being lowered 9mm, the bonnet still hit the engine. It appears the std EB bonnet bulge is higher at the front of the bonnet than my EB GT bonnet is. A grinder fixed this issue as I have now cut part of the bracing to clear the rocker cover.

Also the BA PCM rearward mounting bolt fouled on the bonnet, but cleared in the ED Ghia. Running with this bolt removed for now.

Snap worked steadily away on mounting the EF/EL A/C condenser and associated pipes while I added water to the now complete cooling system. Thanks to Troyman for assembling the last pieces.

With water in the engine, and the exhaust complete, the engine was started and run for 15mins or so. No oil or water leaks were found. There is a small leak from the blanking bolt I put in the BA Pwr Steering pressure line where the factory pressure switch goes. I didn't use an O'ring and this will be corrected tomorrow.

The tacho doesn't work, but I did expect this. I will need to connect the tacho to the new RPM module. At the moment it is hooked up to the Dizzy control circuit, and seeing as there is now no dizzy, obviously, won't work.

The oil pressure and water temp needles work, but both of the warning lamps are lit continuously. I think this may be due to a lack of a Sig Rtn signal now to the EL ECU. I may need to supply 5 v to correct this. A bit of research is required.

Once the A/C setup was completed, the headlights were put back in and we lowered the wagon back down to the ground.

I had adjusted the clutch by feel and at the moment of truth it all worked as expected. I backed the wagon up the drive and then the front bar was put back on.

The finished result.








Snap and I jumped in and went for the first test drive in my local streets.

She goes well. Smooth and strong. The T5 feels much slicker now too with the new gear oil. Much less notchy than before. Just as a test, we switched the engine over to LPG, and it ran like it was made that way. Given that the LPG tune is the EL Engine tune, it goes quite well. Not enough supply up top, but that can be remedied.

The power steering pump is quite noisy, and I will look for a replacement.

Then I had to drive to Eastern Creek raceway to pick up my Wife and Daughter, who had spent the day at the V8 races.

This is a good test as there was a bit of traffic and the engine performed well on petrol and LPG.

Overall, I am very happy.

Time will tell, but this has been a very rewarding process. I have ended up with a more powerful, hopefully reliable, and definitely unique vehicle, that does go to show what can be done at home in your own driveway. With the right frame of mind and attitude, a lot of patience and determination, this sort of large upgrade can be done.

What did it cost?

A touch under $1800.

That includes everything from electrical connections, paint, bolts, and accessories to the initial engine purchase, spare K Frame and the Xcal3 flash unit.

I did do a lot of horse trading and took my time tracking down items I needed, and with the assistance of a fabulous group of friends I was able to keep much of these costs down.

If you add in the hours of research and labour I put into this project you could add on thousands of dollars.

I will keep you all updated on changes and fixes in future.

Cheers
BenJ

this is just pure sex on wheels

so in conclusion which BA parts where needed exactly i know its a picky question , just a general price guide i want to sum up

Long engine, with accessories included, wiring loom, PCM and throttle pedal.

Cheers
BenJ

ok cool cool , so the box on the right hand side of the engine bay is a BA part ?

Yes, the black box on the top of the passenger strut tower is the BA PCM (computer).


It appears you have a LOT of research to do.

The silver box that sits where the washer bottle normally goes, is the LPG ECU.

Cheers
BenJ

i know im only a young grass hopper

at the end of the day i hope it puts a smile on your face and you are all happy with it

well done with putting the barra in there .. lol may steal ur idea of painting the ecu black looks better than the grey it is

Congratulation Ben , you must be immensely proud and rightly so too .

It has been years in the making and it has finally been completed. Whatever will you do now lol?

It looks very much at home in the EB engine bay.

Well done!