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| bry40l |
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Quote: Mazda E3 (1.3L Carb 8V SOHC) = 49Kw (�L� and �GL� models) - Mazda E5 (1.5L Carb 8V SOHC) = 54Kw (�L�, �GL� and �GHIA� models) - Mazda E5 (1.5L Twin Carb 8V SOHC) = 59Kw (�Sports� models) - Mazda E5T (1.5L Carb 8V SOHC Turbo) = 78Kw (�Turbo� models) lol
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| evxr6 |
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{USERNAME} wrote: stupid ford laser forum, cant make a login because that thing to check if im a spammer isnt working, gotta type the letters in and its case sensitive but it still wont let me in no matter how many times i try  I had the same trouble. I just wanted to find the central locking relay on my Girl's 323. Finally got in, and found it is a good site, though. Found a funny thread: {DESCRIPTION} |
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| bry40l |
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{USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: stupid ford laser forum, cant make a login because that thing to check if im a spammer isnt working, gotta type the letters in and its case sensitive but it still wont let me in no matter how many times i try I had the same trouble. I just wanted to find the central locking relay on my Girl's 323. Finally got in, and found it is a good site, though. Found a funny thread: {DESCRIPTION} lol, cannon balls, my car sounds like one of them small dyna diesel trucks, it has a bigger exhaust over the standard pea shooter, i have a feeling you cant get the standard size anymore its soo rediculously small its cut off and facing to the side a little bit just after the back wheels lol, sounds funny under load in top gear up hill with 4 people
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| bry40l |
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so this engine would turn clockwise like most?
so the dizzy is on the back of the motor running off the cam, its advanced as far as it can go judgy by an engine running clockwise means when you look at the bak of the motor its running anti clockwise and the dizzy is on as ar advanced as it will go, if i move it back down the revs start to drop and if i rev it on anything less than what it was (with a full tank of 98 octane) it will have a misfire, so im going to buy a timing light and check the timing properly, then set it back to stock spec take it for a drive,if it drives any better like that ill see if i can get a few degrees more out of it and if not ill just leave it, i did retard it a very small amount and take it for a drive and i dono it did seem to have a little more pick up, does anyone know how far advanced these are ment to run? also with my idle problem the car idles fine when i first start it about 1000 RPM which isnt too bad, but once ive driven it/ reved it a few times it idles at between 1400-1600rpm
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| bry40l |
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it has a marking with "10" written on it and "1" written on it
i found the timing is supposed to be set at 10degrees btdc give or take 2 degrees, so i have it set at approximatly 11degrees and it was so far advanced before that it was on the limit of the adjustment for the dizzy, but now that its closer to being the factory timing on i have back firing from the muffler when im going down hill in a low gear, its not that bad it could just be because the exhaust has 1 muffler, but it didnt back fire before? also i cant seem to tell if its going too much better(every time i touch something i seem to think its better but it probably isnt) also i disconnected #1 lead and had it running for a minute because i had problems trying to get my BRAND NEW timing light to work and it developed a misfire when driving it, i gave it hell around the block and the misfire went away but does it sound like it could be needing an adjustment on the fuel/air mixture screw? maybe ill just go fiddle with the air fuel mixture have gotten the car to idle, turns out the choke pulls on the throttle before shutting the butterfly to choke it, altho the butterfly was open the accelorator was pulled on. also there is alot of s**t being thrown around at the moment about this car, it was originaly going to be rebuilt with higher compression and get a cam thrown in, as far as i can tell it got a standard rebuild but maybe the head was dropped for compression, my dad keeps mentioning that my mate through a cam in, but it doesnt have extractors so i dont see the point? not to mention its slow as F**k compared to my old one. now we arent on speaking terms anymore since he was the one who ruined the door being a doosh when my brother was infact owner of the car and he refused to buy the car off my brother($350 which my brother purchased it for off a old man who owned it in between my mate and my brother) and refused to fix it. but i havent got a problem with him as much as my dad or brother so i may grab some info off him on fbook
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| bry40l |
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just screwed the air/ fuel mixture in until it ran s**t and then backed it out until it ran smooth, but i noticed if i keep backing the screw off no matter how far i go it doesnt make it go worse, so i just backed it out until it ran smoothy, plus a little bit more, no more back fire going down gears, still slow but in the wet i used to be able to hold it flat in second gear and it wouldnt spin and torque steer, now if i put it flat on the same road and its the same amount of water on the road it will spin and torque steer, so i guess thats a win for now, will readjust the tappets later as i need to clean up for work
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| rustyeb1991 |
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if all else fails swap for fs motor and g series gear box with wiring and computer= no more carbs just 2.0L goodness
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| BEAR80 |
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Age: 44 Posts: 683 Joined: 4th Mar 2010 Ride: BF Fairmont Ghia & TS Magna Location: central coast |
or put a familia familia bp 1600 engine into it
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| bry40l |
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you can get injected E5 mazda engines, this engine is the E5, i had a E3 (same engine but destroked to 1.3l) paddock basher that went better than this thing is running at the moment, and it sat in my paddock with water in the cylinders with no carb spark plugs or bonnet for 3 months
 altho we were running a 1.5 carby on it im sure they are exactly the same carb
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| bry40l |
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so today was very eventful
dropped the timing chain after getting it ready to put the link back in(facepalm). but it seemed that the chain had to come further over and i couldnt get to the tensioner bolts while the engine was in the car, couldnt push on the guide with a screw driver so the engine mounts, exhaust, gear linkages and cv's need to be taken off and the engine will come out. the cam seemed to be out by one tooth when i called the old owner who built the engine, and he told me where the marks are all ment to be at tdc, he told me where the ignition timing was set when he had the car and it was all good, so the old man who bought it off him had f**k with it and now im in this dilema lol. should keep me busy for the weekend anyway if this rain goes also before anyone has a go at me, i did have a bit of wire around both sides of the chain but one side dropped on the tensioner side and i couldnt pull it bak up because it dropped to far and the tensioner was in the way,
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| bry40l |
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ended up dropping the sump, fishing the chain back out with more light it made it more visible,
got it all back together now, just need to put some oil back in the old b**ch and give it a kick, probably tommorrow morning or late tonite, will just adjust the ignition timing by ear until tommorrow
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| bry40l |
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ended up buying a gregories ka laser repair manual off ebay for $9 delivered since no bodies scaning pages for me or telling me the real information over the phone!!!!
better off alone doing stuff imo that way if anything breaks i only have myself to blame, altho theres less chance of breaking anything. thinking of looking for a straight bodied laser and if the motors on its way out ill put new gasgets through this one and do the swap, it seems the motor was rebuilt with old gasgets and s**t loads of that orange gasget silastic s**t was used, doesnt seem the headgasgets leaking which is a plus i guess. f**k i hate dodgy people, if your going to the trouble to rebuild a block and head you may aswell use new f**k gasgets! these E5 engines leak oil as it is,
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| bry40l |
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in the market for an unregoed ka/kb, have no w decided i can just transfer my rego if it passed a pink slip, or can throw 6 months on and cash my rego in, swap the tinted windows, suspension, seats digital clock, cd player etc, pull the motor and then i can scrap the ef and the laser, should be about $200 or more in metal between the 2 cars,
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| bry40l |
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this laser is sending me nuts, pulled the timing cover off cleaned it all with brake cleaner and pulled the s**t gasget sealer s**t off set the timing properly, put a decent amount of new gasget sealer s**t on it( the other guy had just rubbed it on the outside where it was leaking) put it all back together, start the car, runs at 2000 rpm with the timing still at too far advanced from where its ment to be and it cuts out every 10 seconds if you dont give it a quick stab of the throttle, and then start it again, does the same again, not to mention the top of the gasgets leaking so ill just buy a new one tommorrow, maybe ive got a vacum line off somewhere
anyway if i can get it running as it should, or the way it was before i started playing with it im just going to drive it until the rego runs out.. or it goes bang, really over it lol, shoulda left it the way it was, at least it drove, it just has a problem i cant get to the bottom of  falcon still going as per normal, 
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| bry40l |
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why
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