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| Lowlane7 |
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mitchell g wrote: NLfairlane wrote: The exhaust goes extractors -> 2 1/2 through small muffler -> to about 6 inches out to the side of the car. thought about getting the fibreglass xr8 bonnet. but only so far you can go on a budget. might cut out the s**t in the bonnet and boot to make it a bit lighter. that works too Yep, sounds sweet I'll bet!  .Seems to me like you've pretty much stripped this machine down to its bones. Racking my brain trying to think what else you can remove.. Maybe the bumpers then remove the inner supports and tec screw the plastic back on? (Might be streching it a bit there though...  ) I'm guessing you want it to look mostly normal from the outside..
_________________ [color=#004080]Cheers, Jacob. |
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| Povvo_XT |
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Age: 48 Posts: 114 Joined: 29th Jan 2011 Ride: NL Fairlane. 5 liters of Fun! Location: Bathurst/Orange |
This is quite interesting to read. Waiting to see what times she ends up running.
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| NLfairlane |
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The weather isn't looking to good but im going to try and get out there this weekend.
Bumpers sounds a little too extreme but thanks for the input. Bought a helmet and sheet metal for the boot as the rules say it has to be inclosed because of the fuel tank. Little bit of work tieng a few loose ends and if the weather permits be at palmyra this friday. Cheers Kobe. |
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| Povvo_XT |
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Age: 48 Posts: 114 Joined: 29th Jan 2011 Ride: NL Fairlane. 5 liters of Fun! Location: Bathurst/Orange |
NLfairlane wrote: The weather isn't looking to good but im going to try and get out there this weekend. Bumpers sounds a little too extreme but thanks for the input. Bought a helmet and sheet metal for the boot as the rules say it has to be inclosed because of the fuel tank. Little bit of work tieng a few loose ends and if the weather permits be at palmyra this friday. Cheers Kobe. Well sounds like you're in a good place to begin with. Wait and see what she runs, and then look at getting even more brutal on the Jenny Craig action. What about inner guards? |
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| 93_eb_fairmont |
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When I started doing an ED (ended up giving up, $ gets out of hand with towing etc) someone told me to get a piece of heavy pipe and weld it over/replace rear shocks with it. Apparently when the car squats big time off the line, it causes lost time. Obviously if it cant squat, it has to go forward. I dont know if its true, but it sounds legit.
_________________ How many bears could Bear Grylls grill if Bear Grylls could grill bears? |
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| NLfairlane |
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like go from one side to the other, like the braces in the front of other cars?
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| 93_eb_fairmont |
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No, up and down. Once you make the shock absorber unable to move then the car cant move up or down in the back. As I said, not sure if it works, but the logic behind it seems sound. A lot of american muscle cars from the 80's and 90's had anti-squat setups from factory (from the way the diffs were mounted) so there must be something to the theory.
_________________ How many bears could Bear Grylls grill if Bear Grylls could grill bears? Last edited by 93_eb_fairmont on Wed Apr 23, 2014 10:16 pm, edited 1 time in total. |
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| 93_eb_fairmont |
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Oh. Havent seen anyone mention it yet, but you'll need a tail shaft loop aswell.
Also, be very careful what you do, especially with doors/glass/bonnet/exhaust. Make sure you call one of the scrutineers or organisers BEFORE you do something hardcore, they are likely to just tell you no. IF it seems dodgy they probably wont let you race.
_________________ How many bears could Bear Grylls grill if Bear Grylls could grill bears? |
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| Lowlane7 |
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Maybe lay some cheap material over the doors and tack it down to cover the insides, cheap door skin type of thing. Cover up what you've cut out and it may not become an issue..
From memory anti tramp rods were an old school type of brace to stop diff movement up and down so the diff wouldn't skip as much. Maybe removing shocks and inserting pipe may give better traction? Or it may just cause too much strain and crack/break stuff instead... Weight would be replaced too... Might be worth looking into and brainstorming some ideas though? Here's another idea. Look into "downgrading" your belt setup to the EB style.. Balancer alternator and water pump on the 3 rib belt and v belt p/steer. You would be able to completely remove the ac compressor and idlers.. Might be worth it?
_________________ [color=#004080]Cheers, Jacob. |
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| cjh |
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93_eb_fairmont wrote: When I started doing an ED (ended up giving up, $ gets out of hand with towing etc) someone told me to get a piece of heavy pipe and weld it over/replace rear shocks with it. Apparently when the car squats big time off the line, it causes lost time. Obviously if it cant squat, it has to go forward. I dont know if its true, but it sounds legit. When the car squats, it is puting more pressure on the tyres to grip.....weight transfer. BUT, with standard shocks, the car will want to rise after you have left the line, then the weight comes off, and at a time where the donk is making more power, then you get wheel spin. Puting in a rigid arrangement for the shockies isn't going to work to well....but better than stock. Proper drag racing shocks are the go. Also, having near rigid engine mounts helps heaps too....your not wasting engine torque on trying to make the engine do barrel rolls in the engine bay. You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
_________________ http://youtu.be/jJTh9F3Vgg0 |
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| Lowlane7 |
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cjh wrote: 93_eb_fairmont wrote: When I started doing an ED (ended up giving up, $ gets out of hand with towing etc) someone told me to get a piece of heavy pipe and weld it over/replace rear shocks with it. Apparently when the car squats big time off the line, it causes lost time. Obviously if it cant squat, it has to go forward. I dont know if its true, but it sounds legit. When the car squats, it is puting more pressure on the tyres to grip.....weight transfer. BUT, with standard shocks, the car will want to rise after you have left the line, then the weight comes off, and at a time where the donk is making more power, then you get wheel spin. Puting in a rigid arrangement for the shockies isn't going to work to well....but better than stock. Proper drag racing shocks are the go. Also, having near rigid engine mounts helps heaps too....your not wasting engine torque on trying to make the engine do barrel rolls in the engine bay. Thats right, I was reading a street fords article about that. I recall 90/10 for front shocks were the good option and 60 or 70/somthing for rears, so it squatted but didnt rebound as fast or somthing along those lines (?).. Welding some steel plates to the sides of the engine mounts works well, but that was on 250 crossflow ones, I cant remember if your mounts can allow for that.. Ive also seen a short length of chain around the mount on a XW 351.. but again, unsure if ef/el K frame will allow.. Do you have the angle mounts or the big cylinder type? the cylinder ones shuold be easy enough to weld up and make solid.
_________________ [color=#004080]Cheers, Jacob. |
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| NLfairlane |
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So i went and bought two sheets of .8mm aluminum for the book and the door skins. just to keep scrutineering happy.
When i bought the car it had new shocks. but ill do one run with the go pro facing the shocks on the inside to see if it where they mount is flexing if so ill do what you say and brace them. The meeting has been postponed until next weekend so its a waiting game. |
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| Mad2 |
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NLfairlane wrote: The meeting has been postponed until next weekend so its a waiting game. always a errr "waiting" game..... lol 
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| NLfairlane |
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Lowlane7 wrote: cjh wrote: 93_eb_fairmont wrote: When I started doing an ED (ended up giving up, $ gets out of hand with towing etc) someone told me to get a piece of heavy pipe and weld it over/replace rear shocks with it. Apparently when the car squats big time off the line, it causes lost time. Obviously if it cant squat, it has to go forward. I dont know if its true, but it sounds legit. When the car squats, it is puting more pressure on the tyres to grip.....weight transfer. BUT, with standard shocks, the car will want to rise after you have left the line, then the weight comes off, and at a time where the donk is making more power, then you get wheel spin. Puting in a rigid arrangement for the shockies isn't going to work to well....but better than stock. Proper drag racing shocks are the go. Also, having near rigid engine mounts helps heaps too....your not wasting engine torque on trying to make the engine do barrel rolls in the engine bay. Thats right, I was reading a street fords article about that. I recall 90/10 for front shocks were the good option and 60 or 70/somthing for rears, so it squatted but didnt rebound as fast or somthing along those lines (?).. Welding some steel plates to the sides of the engine mounts works well, but that was on 250 crossflow ones, I cant remember if your mounts can allow for that.. Ive also seen a short length of chain around the mount on a XW 351.. but again, unsure if ef/el K frame will allow.. Do you have the angle mounts or the big cylinder type? the cylinder ones shuold be easy enough to weld up and make solid. i was talking to dad and he thinks that if you just get rid of the rubber mounds and just metal to metal it should be pretty good. |
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| NLfairlane |
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93_eb_fairmont wrote: Oh. Havent seen anyone mention it yet, but you'll need a tail shaft loop aswell. Also, be very careful what you do, especially with doors/glass/bonnet/exhaust. Make sure you call one of the scrutineers or organisers BEFORE you do something hardcore, they are likely to just tell you no. IF it seems dodgy they probably wont let you race. i think you only need a tailshaft loop if your running slicks. |
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