|
cjh |
|
|||
|
{USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: Oh. Havent seen anyone mention it yet, but you'll need a tail shaft loop aswell. Also, be very careful what you do, especially with doors/glass/bonnet/exhaust. Make sure you call one of the scrutineers or organisers BEFORE you do something hardcore, they are likely to just tell you no. IF it seems dodgy they probably wont let you race. i think you only need a tailshaft loop if your running slicks. Are you sure ????...coz at Benaraby, gotta have a loop no matter what.
_________________ http://youtu.be/jJTh9F3Vgg0 |
|||
Top | |
mitchell g |
|
||
|
i've never herd you need a loop fullstop, i could understand if you're running 11's or quicker
|
||
Top | |
NLfairlane |
|
||
|
Bit of a read but heres the andra rules
Tailshaft loops are highly recommended for all vehicles. Where a cross-member is not in the vicinity of the front universal joint, all unmodified street based vehicles using supercharged, turbo or nitrous engines, all modified vehicles, vehicles with non-original engines, and all competition vehicle with rear wheel drive, capable of elapsed times quicker than 13.00 (1/4 mile)/8.30 (1/8 mile), using open drive shafts, must have a retainer loop: 360 degrees of enclosure, 3mm (1/8 inch) minimum thickness and 50mm (2 inches) wide, or 22mm (7/8 inch) x 1.62mm (.065 inch) welded steel tubing, securely mounted and located within 150mm (6 inches) of the front universal joint for support of the drive shaft in event of universal joint failure. It is recommended that the loop be round to minimise I 222 I 223 GEN REGS 4 loading. On rear wheel drive sedans with fabricated floors, the width and location of the loop should take into account the location of the front yoke and universal in relation to the driver. Rear wheel drive sedans with a fabricated floor where the drive line passes any part of the driver’s body, must have the driveline enclosed in a 360 degrees tube made of 3mm (1/8 inch) steel plate or 1.27mm (.050”) CM4130 as a minimum, be securely mounted to the frame or frame structure covering the front universal joint and extending rearward a minimum of 305mm (12 inches) from the centre of the joint. An anti-rotation device is mandatory in any car where the driver sits over or behind the rear axle |
||
Top | |
93_eb_fairmont |
|
|||
|
{USERNAME} wrote: Bit of a read but heres the andra rules Tailshaft loops are highly recommended for all vehicles. Where a cross-member is not in the vicinity of the front universal joint, all unmodified street based vehicles using supercharged, turbo or nitrous engines, all modified vehicles, vehicles with non-original engines, and all competition vehicle with rear wheel drive, capable of elapsed times quicker than 13.00 (1/4 mile)/8.30 (1/8 mile), using open drive shafts, must have a retainer loop: 360 degrees of enclosure, 3mm (1/8 inch) minimum thickness and 50mm (2 inches) wide, or 22mm (7/8 inch) x 1.62mm (.065 inch) welded steel tubing, securely mounted and located within 150mm (6 inches) of the front universal joint for support of the drive shaft in event of universal joint failure. It is recommended that the loop be round to minimise I 222 I 223 GEN REGS 4 loading. On rear wheel drive sedans with fabricated floors, the width and location of the loop should take into account the location of the front yoke and universal in relation to the driver. Rear wheel drive sedans with a fabricated floor where the drive line passes any part of the driver’s body, must have the driveline enclosed in a 360 degrees tube made of 3mm (1/8 inch) steel plate or 1.27mm (.050”) CM4130 as a minimum, be securely mounted to the frame or frame structure covering the front universal joint and extending rearward a minimum of 305mm (12 inches) from the centre of the joint. An anti-rotation device is mandatory in any car where the driver sits over or behind the rear axle Thats strange, I was told I had to have one no matter what. Either way though, for the cost of an offcut of 3mm flat bar and a half hour, its a worthwhile thing. I've never been to Palmyra (even though I lived in Mackay most of my life) but I imagine they have a VHT lane, these are big old heavy cars, wouldnt want the uni to snap!
_________________ How many bears could Bear Grylls grill if Bear Grylls could grill bears? |
|||
Top | |
NLfairlane |
|
||
|
Yeah better to be safe than sorry.
|
||
Top | |
Lowlane7 |
|
||
|
Noting there it's purpose is for front uni failure..
Some older cars (old statis and kingswoods) have a wide crossmember that if the uni fails the shaft would hit it, so I guess in that case you would be covered.. However AFAIK up here a street car dosnt require one to go down the strip... Your not gonna drill holes in your BA to put in a shaft loop when you only go to the drags twice a year, even if your car is modified and can do a 12... Is that excerpt edited or straight cut and pasted? It seems a little miss worded.. "It is highly recommended" But then all unmodified street based vehicles using supercharged, turbo or nitrous engines, all modified vehicles, vehicles with non-original engines, and all competition vehicle with rear wheel drive, capable of elapsed times quicker than 13.00 (1/4 mile)/8.30 (1/8 mile), using open drive shafts, must have a retainer loop. So is it only required for all cars doing quicker than a 13 by that, because the wording seems to only apply the time to the "and all competition vehicles with rear wheel drive etc... Also what is an unmodified street based car.. And how can it have nos if its unmodified??
_________________ [color=#004080]Cheers, Jacob. |
||
Top | |
cjh |
|
|||
|
{USERNAME} wrote: Noting there it's purpose is for front uni failure.. Some older cars (old statis and kingswoods) have a wide crossmember that if the uni fails the shaft would hit it, so I guess in that case you would be covered.. However AFAIK up here a street car dosnt require one to go down the strip... Your not gonna drill holes in your BA to put in a shaft loop when you only go to the drags twice a year, even if your car is modified and can do a 12... Is that excerpt edited or straight cut and pasted? It seems a little miss worded.. "It is highly recommended" But then all unmodified street based vehicles using supercharged, turbo or nitrous engines, all modified vehicles, vehicles with non-original engines, and all competition vehicle with rear wheel drive, capable of elapsed times quicker than 13.00 (1/4 mile)/8.30 (1/8 mile), using open drive shafts, must have a retainer loop. So is it only required for all cars doing quicker than a 13 by that, because the wording seems to only apply the time to the "and all competition vehicles with rear wheel drive etc... Also what is an unmodified street based car.. And how can it have nos if its unmodified?? I actually know a bloke who was in a 6 cylinder HQ Kingswood ( he was a passenger) sedan that was on the highway at 100 kmh, out near Emerald, and the front uni let go, and it flipped the car end over, and skated down the road on the roof, then went off the road and rolled down a gully. He lost the bottom of his left leg, and the driver died. He works as an Orderly at the Rocky Base Hospital. Soooooo.....the gearbox Xmember doesn't catch the tailshaft.
_________________ http://youtu.be/jJTh9F3Vgg0 |
|||
Top | |
Lowlane7 |
|
||
|
It was more as an example of a car with a crossmember that catches the shaft as the only other one I could think of was a pajero, but there aren't many if any of those flying down the strip LOL..
But that's also on a straight drop an a moving car still has a spinning shaft so it could have rolled off to the side a little and dropped anyway, didn't think of that last night, thanks to tequila.. , and at worst id imagine the shaft keeps rolling to the side anyway and would do nothing more than mess up the underside of the car.. Also http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=5eNbK2ALDAY Sooo, not saying your story isn't true, just highly unlikely to happen and the one in a million if it did. Poor bloke though losing his leg.. I don't think andra are worried about cars flipping over, but having a preventable accident on the track in any way.. Prevention is the best cute type thing. Onto the rest of what I said, it's still worded interestingly and I'm still wondering Is that excerpt edited or straight cut and pasted? It seems a little miss worded.. "It is highly recommended" But then all unmodified street based vehicles using supercharged, turbo or nitrous engines, all modified vehicles, vehicles with non-original engines, and all competition vehicle with rear wheel drive, capable of elapsed times quicker than 13.00 (1/4 mile)/8.30 (1/8 mile), using open drive shafts, must have a retainer loop. So is it only required for all cars doing quicker than a 13 by that, because the wording seems to only apply the time to the "and all competition vehicles with rear wheel drive etc... Also what is an unmodified street based car.. And how can it have nos if its unmodified?? Might do some searching today..
_________________ [color=#004080]Cheers, Jacob. |
||
Top | |
NLfairlane |
|
||
|
{USERNAME} wrote: Maybe lay some cheap material over the doors and tack it down to cover the insides, cheap door skin type of thing. Cover up what you've cut out and it may not become an issue.. From memory anti tramp rods were an old school type of brace to stop diff movement up and down so the diff wouldn't skip as much. Maybe removing shocks and inserting pipe may give better traction? Or it may just cause too much strain and crack/break stuff instead... Weight would be replaced too... Might be worth looking into and brainstorming some ideas though? Here's another idea. Look into "downgrading" your belt setup to the EB style.. Balancer alternator and water pump on the 3 rib belt and v belt p/steer. You would be able to completely remove the ac compressor and idlers.. Might be worth it? im listening, could you elaborate on the downgrading belt setup? |
||
Top | |
cjh |
|
|||
|
{USERNAME} wrote: It was more as an example of a car with a crossmember that catches the shaft as the only other one I could think of was a pajero, but there aren't many if any of those flying down the strip LOL.. The Commodores.....I think VB to VL had a little extra Xmember, that didn't hold anything, were behind the G'box Xmember.......thems the ones you were thinkin of ???
_________________ http://youtu.be/jJTh9F3Vgg0 |
|||
Top | |
Lowlane7 |
|
||
|
CJH: Yeah schkrommondores have the centre bearing, another example. I think BA onwards have a split tailshaft too..?
NLFairlane: get all the gear off an EA-ED to fit it to yours. Swap harmonic balancer, change the alternator mounts over, you can throw away your AC compressor and the belt tensioner. Swap the water pump for the earlier one (might need to custom the lower radiator hose to fit) Swapping the timing cover will make it easier to get the TDC marks right, but you can get clever and measure off an EL and and ED one and find a common spot to mark it at for the ED TDC mark on the EF cover. You will also need the EA-ED p steer pump and fit that, same mounts though memory. I can't remember off hand but once you have compared the 2 you will see, but you will see any other differences between that you need to swap, but I'm pretty sure that's pretty much it.
_________________ [color=#004080]Cheers, Jacob. |
||
Top | |
SWC |
|
||
|
{USERNAME} wrote: CJH: Yeah schkrommondores have the centre bearing, another example. I think BA onwards have a split tailshaft too..? NLFairlane: get all the gear off an EA-ED to fit it to yours. Swap harmonic balancer, change the alternator mounts over, you can throw away your AC compressor and the belt tensioner. Swap the water pump for the earlier one (might need to custom the lower radiator hose to fit) Swapping the timing cover will make it easier to get the TDC marks right, but you can get clever and measure off an EL and and ED one and find a common spot to mark it at for the ED TDC mark on the EF cover. You will also need the EA-ED p steer pump and fit that, same mounts though memory. I can't remember off hand but once you have compared the 2 you will see, but you will see any other differences between that you need to swap, but I'm pretty sure that's pretty much it. The serpentine belt system is more effecient than the old EA-ED belts system. You can replace the AC with a pulley, they are available. |
||
Top | |
Lowlane7 |
|
||
|
Yes, or gut the AC compressor as in a thread on here and lose a few kilos through that..
But the main part with it isn't efficiency, it's weight reduction..
_________________ [color=#004080]Cheers, Jacob. |
||
Top | |
NLfairlane |
|
||
|
Sounds like something to do further down the track. thanks for the input
Well today ive installed the linelock and started on enclosing the boot. some small jobs left to do and should be ready for friday. |
||
Top | |
cjh |
|
|||
|
{USERNAME} wrote: Sounds like something to do further down the track. thanks for the input Well today ive installed the linelock and started on enclosing the boot. some small jobs left to do and should be ready for friday. Make sure you do the speaker holes and the rear seat belt mounting holes too.
_________________ http://youtu.be/jJTh9F3Vgg0 |
|||
Top | |
Who is online |
---|
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 68 guests |