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| NLfairlane |
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So ive just turned 16 and my dad and i bought an 1998 NL fairlane for $100 in perfectly good running condition (paints a bit dodgy) He used to drag race when i was younger Mx3 with a 351 cleveland in it. Anyway is there any tips on getting it to got faster without spending too much.
ive completely stripped the interior cut out the passenger headlight and made an intake out of it got extractors a 2 1/2 inch mandrel bent exhaust Line locker Shift Kit (homemade) Would be nice to have it run in the 13s eventually without paying too much. Any help would be appreciated Kobe. |
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| Lowlane7 |
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Most basics are on this thread..
ford-v8-f2/some-basic-mods-cost-info-for-upgrading-your-v8-t100801.html Look at underdrive pulleys. You can get them from the states pretty cheap, around $100 delivered or less.. and are the highest bang for your buck mod from what I know. Ignition, get a MSD coil some bigger leads and good plugs. Depending on how much your dad knows maybe even carby the windsor! Tunnel rams and a decent carby!
_________________ [color=#004080]Cheers, Jacob. |
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| NLfairlane |
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Would all this be the same for 6 cylinder as i have the 6 cyl version
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| SWC |
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{USERNAME} wrote: So ive just turned 16 and my dad and i bought an 1998 NL fairlane for $100 in perfectly good running condition (paints a bit dodgy) He used to drag race when i was younger Mx3 with a 351 cleveland in it. Anyway is there any tips on getting it to got faster without spending too much. ive completely stripped the interior cut out the passenger headlight and made an intake out of it got extractors a 2 1/2 inch mandrel bent exhaust Line locker Shift Kit (homemade) Would be nice to have it run in the 13s eventually without paying too much. Any help would be appreciated Kobe. 1) There is no cheap performance and reliability. 2) The Failane is a big heavy car, if you want an E series for Drag Racing use an EB/ED sedan. Lighter. 3) If you want to run in the 13sec bracket, expect to spend money and having a Fairlane, expect to spend more. 4) Change the self levelling suspension over to standard. Use XR or Low springs, front and rear. Work you can do is, 1)Cold Air Induction, 2) If the car is to be used for Drags only, reduce any back pressure you have in the exhaust, just get it quiet enough to keep the guys happy at the drags. 3) Remove the Cat and fit a straight through pipe. 4) Fit 4.11:1 diff gears. 5) Head work and cam. Go all the way, because if it is for the drags, who cares how drivable it is on the street. 6) J3 chip, (Modify Tune) 7) AU Injectors, no real power increase, but fuel will burn better due to the 4 spray pattern instead of the E series single spray. Consider fitting a carby? 8) E85 Tune. Will need bigger pump, injectors and Tune. 9) Change the self levelling suspension over to standard. Use XR or Low springs, front and rear. 10 Check all you suspension parts, struts, shocks, bushes etc. Bad suspension will effect your times. |
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| Matt_jew |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Most basics are on this thread.. ford-v8-f2/some-basic-mods-cost-info-for-upgrading-your-v8-t100801.html Look at underdrive pulleys. You can get them from the states pretty cheap, around $100 delivered or less.. and are the highest bang for your buck mod from what I know. Ignition, get a MSD coil some bigger leads and good plugs. Depending on how much your dad knows maybe even carby the windsor! Tunnel rams and a decent carby! None of it applies to yours mate with it being a 6 sorry.
_________________ {USERNAME} wrote: More people paid for a ride in a VT commodore then an AU Falcon so the VT is superior.
Based on that fact my Mum is the best around! |
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| Matt_jew |
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If its just for the drags Id put a 150 shot giggle gas kit in.
Can get kits fairly cheap now on flea bay.
_________________ {USERNAME} wrote: More people paid for a ride in a VT commodore then an AU Falcon so the VT is superior.
Based on that fact my Mum is the best around! |
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| NLfairlane |
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Cold air is done
Self leveling is out (compressor and everything) extractors to 2 1/2 inch straight through Suspension is all new Would the 4.11.1 gears be good for an auto? would it get into top gear? E85 would be the go, but ill hold off until i get the funds to turbo it and then get injectors and new fuel system. Hey having a big car makes a bit more work but its all about making a slow car fast. |
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| Lowlane7 |
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Sorry, I assumed it was an 8.. Pretty much the ignition part is the same..
ford-4l-and-6-cylinder-f1/3-9l-4-0l-inline-6-modification-guide-t66.html Thats the 6 cyl equivalent page.. NOS is actually a very good idea! engines are cheap and easy to get hold of so if it breaks swap in another.. XR 3.45 diff for a quicker ratio, some decent wide tyres to get the traction down (the fat a** helps a lot too) take out the door glass and tec screw in some perspex gut the doors of regs Even get a CPI manifold, strip out the wiriing and redo the basics and run it as a carby? Or a cam and J3 chip?
_________________ [color=#004080]Cheers, Jacob. |
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| NLfairlane |
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What do you mean by strip out the wiring? Like what wires?
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| Lowlane7 |
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you could remove the whole wiring loom rom the car and go to basic carby powering wires, that would drop a few Kgs..
not too sure how linked they are but you could probably cut the whole read of the car loom out, from the trans hump back sort of thing..
_________________ [color=#004080]Cheers, Jacob. |
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| NLfairlane |
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Sounds like something to do further down the track.
carburetor and nos sounds like the way to go |
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| Lowlane7 |
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Somthing different, and borderline pioneering too.. the best sort of modding!
_________________ [color=#004080]Cheers, Jacob. |
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| NLfairlane |
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Thats it, doing something different to stand out. And go fast
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| Mad2 |
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personally i'd go at least 3.9 not 3.45 ratio - it's a drag car not a road car
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| shipo_1150 |
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Throw 4:11 's in it. 4 gears to get through over 400m so you should be fine.
Maybe even a stall to get it off the line. But if your going to go a cam ect might aswel get one to suit that. |
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