OK.. The alarm is mostly in and working..

Central locking turned out to be the easy part....

The interior light is the problem now... or the BEM to be exact...

Basically, the normal ford remote triggers the BEM to turn off the light when locked and vice versa... now triggering the CDL manually using the new alarm doesn't turn off the interior light and as a result, the door trigger is setting off the alarm.

Since I can't think of any way to stop the BEM light thing, I've thought of as way around the problem. If the doors are shut, the lights time out and go out anyway... so if I put a relay between the negative feed from the bem to the interior light circuit and put positive on the other side of the relay... the relay will click shut when the BEM times out interior light delay... and the relay can then connect the door trigger to the alarm.... I didn't word that very well, let me try again..

The BEM must be feeding a negative to the door light circuit to be turning on the lights when you unlock the doors... If I use that negative to trigger a relay, I can use the relay to only connect the door trigger to the alarm after the BEM has stopped feeding in the negative...

Now I just need to find the BEM wire that does the job..... So far all my wiring is in the door and ignition looms, I've not had to touch the BEM looms yet... fingers crossed that I don't have to.

anyway, back to work. I've been taking photos for Fiend too.

rgds

frank

YAY.... The alarm is in and working.. central locking works as do the door triggers..

The only issue left is that the interior light delay is gone because it's controlled by the BCM and I put a diode on that line to stop it feeding a negative back into the line and triggering the alarm. (which all works perfectly now)

Once I figure out how to trigger the interior light manually without the BCM.. I can use the alarms light delay instead.. but for now, the interior lights all work when you open the doors so I'm not that fussed...

There is a black/blue wire at the BCM that I cut and put a diode in (have lots of pics) and it receives the signal from the door switches.. another wire I've not found yet leaves the BCM and powers the lights... Once I know that wire.. I can restore full functionality.. but until then I not that fussed about the light delay as long as the interior lights work.. and they do.. so I'm happy.

Still have to add the shock sensor, microwave, bonnet switch and a couple of other bits and pieces.. but the main module of the alarm is perfect as is the central locking etc.

Excellent.

One step close to being done.

Cheers
BenJ

Excellent, but without pictures and huge technical write up ----

It never happened.

yeah yeah.. .I have oodles of pics for you mr Fiend.. I'm just about to go out and watch Avatar in 3D at the movies.. so will do it later this arvo.

So the door open trigger is -ve ?? (Some alarms have a choice of -ve and +ve).
Is it actually in the door courtesy line ?? and not in the light dimming line ??
Shouldn't need diodes, etc.
ford-interior-f14/how-to-turn-off-interior-lights-when-the-door-is-open-t65586.html
ford-audio-visual-f5/after-market-alarm-on-el-is-going-nuts-please-help-t62934.html
Try my suggestion adding the boot light to the cabin lighting to give it alarm protection.

The door switches are one wire and the switches are earthed alarm has seperate wires for positive or negative triggers...... These are definately negative switches unlike the old X series switches where the switch was plastic and insulated from the body (and with two wires)...... the problem is that when you put your multimeter on one of the door switch wire.. it reads continuity to earth even with everything shut..... (which triggered the alarm) until I put the diode on the black/blue BCM wire. It seems to me like the door switches are negative to the BCM.. which then switches the lights on and off. If you disconnect from the BCM.. the interior lights don't work at all.. it was at this point that I started thinking about the diode... which did work..... but having said that, I shall read your posts most attentively mr Snap. Thankyou.

Oh, another useful tidbit.. by putting the diode in place as I have, you can arm the car instantly even though the BCM has not timed the interior light delay out as it normally would when you use the factory remote. because the BCM is the one keeping the lights on with the doors shut.... it would normally be feeding a negative down that line.. (and it does I tested it)... so the diode means you can set and forget it.. the light times out after 30 seconds, but the alarm works on the door triggers straight away.. the more I think about it.. the more I think I may have hit on the best answer with the way I have done it.

Incidently.. when I was an alarm fitter.. it was standard practise to wire the boot to the interior.. however in this case, I'm hoping the alarm has a seperate trigger for boot/bonnet because it tells you on the remote screen what triggered the alarm.. so would be good to know if it was boot/bonnet/door/shock/microwave etc.... If it doesnt' have that ability.. I probably will just wire them together.. that is how I did the EA.

Last edited by frankieh on Mon Jan 18, 2010 2:40 am, edited 2 times in total.

I should add that the best way to do this, would be to find a way to trick the BCM to lock and unlock the doors itself after prompting from the aftermarket alarm, rather than triggering the CDL diectly and then having to get around the BCM as a result.

I'm not done looking at this yet.. I have it working perfectly for me now... because my doide stops the BCM from sending a negative back down the line.... however, if I can find a way for the alarm to trigger the BCM To lock/unlock the CDL itself.. it would be as good as factory and the most elegant answer.. but as I understand it, the BCM is also the receiver for the factory remotes.. so it might be that the only triggers would be on the actual circuit board.... I have a couple of spares so I might just have to have a play...

Can't find my camera to apease Fiend.. must still be in the car... will have to wait till tomorrow now.

You know I'm a great fan of "the idiots guide to...."

Wouldn't it be great to have your alarm run a little relay for a second or two and have that relay bypassing the radio receiver in the BEM (BCM?)... Quite right, very cool...

If only stuff was that simple.

Here are a couple of photos to tide you over Fiend..

Firstly, the Diode on the BCM..



Indicator pickup...


I picked up all the wires from just two places..

One is the loom under the column... and the other is the firewall loom in the drivers kick panel...

End result looked like this before I finished taping it up.



I'll do a proper write up later with a fully wiring colours list.... this is just to prove to Fiend that I did it...

Judging by the dirt on the left hand digits I'd say you did it alright! Sheez, I gotta get back into ripping apart and re-assembling my car on a daily basis. My life feels hollow....

Just a quick update, in addition to creating another new life, I've done some other stuff too.. just about got the engine ready to go into the car... just need some clutch related stuff and intake/exhaust gaskets and it's ready to go.


I've been working on my new front bar alot.. it's taking ages because i want it to look factory and not need custom mounts etc. I've completely fabricated the ends to match the contours of the factory steel wheel arches and built a lip and matched it up... used a great deal of resin and glass now.. but all that is left is lots of sanding and clean up work and spray putty/painting.

some photos. over all.. you can see the line I've carefully crafted between the two pieces.. It was much harder than I expected to do this, but I think it will be worth it. (the gap was full of resin which was harder than the plastic and therefore hard to shape correctly.) The original bar had the join line so I went to great effort to create it here too.


The corners are fabbed to match up exactly to the front guard flare and curve. and I've added a big lip for strengh.. the amount of resin in this thing is amazing.



This next one shows the flare I've added in much better....


Lastly, one from the front: The picture doesn't do the seperating line between the two halves as you can see fb putty and stuff and it makes the line look indistinct.. it isn't.. with the spray coat I had on it before for testing, it was almost perfectly straight and even.... you will see that when it is painted.



anyway... slowly slowly.. I'm getting there.

I should add that there is no bog at all in this thing so far...
Only things used were urathan glue, fibreglass resin and fibre and some fibreglass repair paste.

New engine is in and running.. all new welsh plugs, guides, chains, head etc etc etc..... block was immaculate with no lip at all...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VAgkDFHu_5U


Engine bay painted shockwave blue:

In the above photo you can also see the remote mounted coil alongside the airbox pickup and held in place by one of it's bolts.. turned the factory bracket on the coil upside down and removed the other side.. looks ok for now.. but not stealthy yet.



you can see the genie extractors hidden under the factory heat shield... for the first time since it was over the pits last time.. the exhaust doesn't leak.. car is smoother and quiter than before... but that may also be the two naffed engine mounts it had.

I just want to say... I love manuals... my car pulls like a 14 year old.

I've got the quick shifter that I got from mr Fiend to go on this weekend.... that should help with shifting.. I accidently went and bought Castrol VMX 80 at the word of a mechanic.. turns out that I probably should have gotten transmax z instead.. but I just spent 50 bucks on the VMX oil so not that keen to throw it out. I also added this:
http://www.nulon.com.au/products/Manual ... Treatment/ G70 stuff in the hope it would help.. it does abit, but still doesn't shift as smooth as I'd like.

The reason I'm concerned.. is that I think the imput shaft bearing is noisy.. when in any gear or nutral and spinning, it's noisy... put the clutch in and it stops.. that doesn't match any other bearing but the input shaft. (it's not loud loud... but it is noticable.)

I suspect that it might be becasue the gearbox sat on my shed floor for a year or more... I notice Troyman said his input shaft quietened down since he put in synthetic.. which is what I thought VMX was.. but perhaps I was wrong. If I have to deal with it being noisy.. so be it.. as long as it doesnt' kill the gearbox.. I'll replace the bearing when I do the clutch next (since that is brand new, it won't be for a while.)

The other problem now is that the fans don't come on without the air con on... I followed some advice in a topic here from Phongus I think about putting a resister in the round plug on the gearbox to trick the ECU into ignoring tranny temp.. and I suspect either it was wrong or my reading of it was wrong because the car seems to ignore all temp readings with regards to the fans now.

still.. I love having a manual.. despite being stuck at LPG only due to a dodgy injector and having to have the air con on all the time for the cooling fans.. this thing goes like the clappers.

T5 short shifter I got from Mr Fiend is finially in the car.







The last one is to give an idea of how short it is now.

Feels tight to change now.... I think I like it.

Also put the new LPG vapour hose I got on ebay for 10 bucks on.. it's thicker rubber with more tightly woven cover (than the old one) and feels like good quality kit.. 10 bucks worth is enough to replace on both my EL and the wifes EF. Anything is better than the rock hard hose on their now.

Have a boot coming for it... I took the opportunity to put some sound proofing over and around the shifter and tomorrow I'm going to put rubber gaskets on both the stick joins as I have a bit of a vibration coming though it.