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| bry40l |
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xr6_corbin wrote: Yep. Easiest way to test them is push the diaphragm arm all the way in and with the vacuum line disconnected put your finger over the port to seal it off. If the arm stays its ok. If it slowly returns to its normal position then your diaphragm is leaking hence why it won't hold open/close or is leaking just enough to hold the blend door half open (as there is constant vacuum when activated). But if I recall correctly the temperature adjustment is a cable/pushrod which can be adjusted with glovebox removed. The recirculate vent is vaccum activated though. the recirc vent seems to not go to recirc, but if i stick my hand up there,and push it a quarter of the way it automaticlystarts working and will hold until the car is switched off
_________________ BF XR6 |
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| xr6_corbin |
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Yep that one has a vacuum actuator further up on the left the dash has to be removed to remove the intake housing and then the actuator off the housing.
_________________ Just Falcon Around. |
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| xr6_corbin |
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finallyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy recieved this in the mail today...
   It has Harrop branding on one side and Eaton on the other side, so im gathering they buy these units in from eaton and modify them to suit the BW diff and then sell them on for a small fortune... got it for trade price tho  And also went back to the wreckers and swapped that bcm for the right unit, so i will be able to put my dash back together this weekend!
_________________ Just Falcon Around. |
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| xr6_corbin |
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Got to working on my car again today, installed my dash and neatened the wiring behind the head unit fascia. Also installed the bcm i sourced from the wreckers and now she starts without having to give a courtesy bang on the lower part of the dash
 Had a scare when i started the car and i couldnt select the venting system which changed from windscreen/face/footwell. It was stuck on windscreen, at this point i thought i didnt re connect the main vaccum line behind the dash and thought fml..... later on discovered the vaccum lines which go through the left side of the firewall were around the wrong way and was accessible from the engine bay. She was all fixed and good! Also got a few other bugs to iron out, the cigarrete lighter works but wont stay pushed in when i push it and the temp guage is reading abnormally low compared to my microtech temp signal.... will figure that out later. My old man was having a play with my old heater unit and managed to pull it apart to check it out.... hmm what leak?  Also on other news i bought a new set of diff carrier bearings which should arrive next week for my tru trac. I was going to press the old bearings off my lokka centre as they were new when lokka was installed but i had a look at my old lsd centre and it seems one side looks to be easy to press off and the other would require a special press tool to remove. So for the price of 22.50 for each bearing i decided to just order them. Will also save alot of time when swapping the diff centres at work on the hoist. Now i just hope the shims in my diff will work with the tru trac and hopefully have some backlash. Otherwise ill need to go and measure it and get some appropriate shims which will take more time... hmm
_________________ Just Falcon Around. |
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| xr6_corbin |
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Sooooo p****d off.....
I tried installing my tru trac this arvo and nearly had the diff centre in the housing with the shims and was gently and evenly tapping the tru trac into position. Stupid me was using a punch to try and tap the shims in a little further and i got the right side in alright but the left side i hit the shim a little too hard and broke about a 3rd of the shim off with the diff centre pretty much installed in the housing!!!! Im kicking myself now as my car is still at work on the hoist in a few peices and the shim was pretty much home but i had to tap it that little extra and wreck it!  Anyways heres a few pics from this afternoon: Got some new timken bearings and rear cover gasket.  Diff with the lokka installed before i pulled it out.  Got diffs? heres a pic of my old lsd centre, my tru trac and the lokka centre.... i could almost open my own diff shop now haha.  Im going to go and put my car back together tomorrow and it should be safe enough to drive down the road to the diff shop and im just going to leave it there for them to find/make me up a new shim and install it. Ive allready removed the broken peice of shim and the centre seems to be sitting there pretty solid so it should be ok for a 2km drive hopefully. Ill post a pic of the tru trac installed with the broken shim tomorrow when i get back to work. Im just over trying to put the diff in and would rather just give it to the diff shop so i dont break another shim....
_________________ Just Falcon Around. |
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| xr6_corbin |
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Got the diff all back together and filled it with oil, found the gasket i got didnt have the dowel holes for the diff housing and i allready had sealant over everything so i scrapped that idea and left shouldered the gasket and just packed more sealant on.
I managed to drive it from work to the diff shop which is about 2 or 3 kms away without a problem, thank god... and left it there for him to find it on monday  Heres some pics of tru trac installed with the broken left shim:   The car on the hoist with my daily suzuki in the back ground 
_________________ Just Falcon Around. |
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| xr6_corbin |
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Got my car back from the diff shop today and i must say the tru trac is the best diff ive ever had! Smooth and silent in operation and puts power to both wheels every time, took it for a good drive this arvo to test it out. Wouldnt get anything else now.
Also recieved this catch can in the mail today and also got a reciever dryer from my local radiator shop for when i gas my a/c this week sometime...  
_________________ Just Falcon Around. |
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| RobDog |
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Sounding good mate. Might look into a Tru-trac when I do a diff upgrade.
And by the looks of it thats the exact same catch can ive got on mine 
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| xr6_corbin |
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RobDog wrote: Sounding good mate. Might look into a Tru-trac when I do a diff upgrade. And by the looks of it thats the exact same catch can ive got on mine Yeah i definatly recommend it, if your lsd is starting to do single peggers then its a good choice, i like them because they use helical gears to transfer torque, as opposed to clutch type lsd's that can eventually wear out. In saying that ive heard good things about kaaz being 1.5 and 2 ways available would be better for drifting as they lock on decelleration, i dont think the tru tracs do that, but definatly lock 2 everytime when accelerating. Still piss easy to hang the a** out and control it and as smooth as anything. Anyways not much of an update but i took my front bar off this arvo and replaced my reciever dryer cause it was rusted out and while i was at it i flipped my intercooler around to the silver side. Looks way better now imo. Not a sleeper anymore. Cooler is a little dented and rough but looks good once behind the bar    
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| xr6_corbin |
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Not a big update but i managed to fit my new oil catch can today, i went to bunnings and bought some metal strapping to make my own bracket to fit it. Its a pretty tight fit and looks like its touching everything around it but i got my tetris on and managed to get it to clear everything with small clearances. And i found out why it was underboosting at the drags, the old rear rocker cover breather filter was split causing oil to leak out and drip onto the vaccum junction near the fuel reg causing one of the vac lines to slide right off and cause a boost leak. Maybe next time i could run quicker than 13.48?? it was only hitting 9.6 psi and usually boosts to around 10.8 ish so over 1 psi difference....
I might paint the bracket black though as it stands out too much for my liking. Out with the old and in with the new  Split breather  Catch can fitted    
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| xr6_corbin |
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Found that now my a/c is gassed up and working it makes the engine run hotter, another little update. I re wired my thermo fans onto a switch so that I can manually switch them to keep the coolant temp down on a hot day. As some of you may know the ef twin thermos are switched by the ecu via 4 relays for 3 different modes e.g half speed etc. I've just wired them up to one relay for both fans full speed on a switch inside my cabin. I've taken the liberty of leaving the factory connectors part of the body loom incase I want to change it back for any reason. I went and bought some connectors for the body side of the loom from the wreckers and made my wiring off them so that it retains the factory look, can't really post any pics as I'm writing this on my phone. But I'm sure everyones seen a relay, switch and wiring before.... I'll post up a pic of it when I get to a computer.
Cheers for reading, Corbin.
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| ToranaGuy |
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It's looking good man. You sure the fan's are running at the correct speed?
Cheers ToranaGuy
_________________ I am the ToranaGuy!|74 Lh Torana Turbo|78 Hz PanelVan|86 Mighty Boy Ute|93 EB2 Ghia,GT Mockup,5spd,LPGI,Full Leather|2 x EB Xr8 5spd's|FS [VIC]: Wrecking - Eb XR8 - Parts available |Build Thread|Ebay Items - Ford Parts| |
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| xr6_corbin |
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ToranaGuy wrote: It's looking good man. You sure the fan's are running at the correct speed? Cheers ToranaGuy Thanks mate. Do you mean before I wired them up to a switch? I'm pretty sure they were operating at the correct speed. Didn't take too much notice. Just knew it was running hotter with the heat of the condenser when the A/C was running. But now I can switch them on full speed earlier before it builds up too much heat. Cheers, Corbin
_________________ Just Falcon Around. |
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| ToranaGuy |
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Cool. I don't notice any difference in temp at all with my thermo's in the Eb Ghia, thought it a bit strange that you do, but maybe with all the turbo gear your starting to push your radiator to it's limits?
Cheers ToranaGuy
_________________ I am the ToranaGuy!|74 Lh Torana Turbo|78 Hz PanelVan|86 Mighty Boy Ute|93 EB2 Ghia,GT Mockup,5spd,LPGI,Full Leather|2 x EB Xr8 5spd's|FS [VIC]: Wrecking - Eb XR8 - Parts available |Build Thread|Ebay Items - Ford Parts| |
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| xr6_corbin |
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Yes it does run a bit hotter with the turbo gear. Mainly also because it's water cooled so that heats up the coolant a bit too, and my turbo and dump pipe aren't heat wrapped at all yet so there's a fair bit of heat generated in the bay too. Only heat shielding I have is in front of the master cylinder to protect it.
Might heat wrap my dump pipe and get a turbo blanket just to keep temps in the engine bay down. I don't think my radiator is at its limits yet. Once i do the above and get my genuine xr bonnet back on with the vents it should vent a bit of the hot air that's being blown back by the thermos out of the bay. At the moment it runs at about 78-80 degrees at night with thermos on. And during the day it sits around 86-88 degrees with a/c on, on a hot day. So not too bad. It used to get up to 98 degrees with a/c on before I had the thermos hooked up this way and reached a peak of 106 degrees when giving it a bit.
_________________ Just Falcon Around. |
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