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| ef_falcon_95 |
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I'll get the pistons made to that ratio . would a au head gasket increase it much ?
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| xr6_corbin |
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Ok heres pics of the timing cover.
still has the old gasket material on underside but other than that its still in alright condition. Few little marks on the sealing surface just from screwdrivers but nothing thats going to make it leak. Probs just hit it with some emery tape and use lots of sealant which is what i did.   $50 bucks plus whatever postage costs if you want it. Just let us know. Cheers, Corbin
_________________ Just Falcon Around. |
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| ef_falcon_95 |
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Pistons are ordered . I got the comp at 8.5:1. H needed details of the cc of the camber . I wasn't sure since they are 0.5 mm oversize . he didn't need any measurements for 8.5:1 so I got that .
_________________ El XR6 Turbo |
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| ef_falcon_95 |
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came across another issue, to order the pistons 0.5mm oversize i had to give a measurement of the bore. seeing as i only have verniers and no telescopic gauge or micrometer i had to get the pistons 1 mm oversize, which just means ill have to get the block bored out. so thats all sorted.
started making the hydraulic clutch pedal, looks a bit rough at the moment , still have to clean up the bracket and paint it all, the find a way to mount it to the pin in the pedal box. when the clutch pedal is out the rods is on a angle but once fully pressed in it straightens up, i had a syringe with a hose on the end acting like a reservoir and it squirts out fluid , so it works      
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| Matt_jew |
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Whilst it will work having the rod to the master on an angle will cause the piston to scuff along the bore and wear both prematurely.
You will need to work out where the pivot point doesnt move off its arc too much and lower the master to suit I reckon.
_________________ xr6turnip wrote: More people paid for a ride in a VT commodore then an AU Falcon so the VT is superior.
Based on that fact my Mum is the best around! |
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| ef_falcon_95 |
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your right it will wear. ill have a play around with it tomorrow
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| ef_falcon_95 |
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I got the rod to push in straight . Had to adjust the angle of the master .
Now to test it .  
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| ef_falcon_95 |
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Started cutting out the base for the plenum . Then the drill started smoking and burnt out lol
_________________ El XR6 Turbo |
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| Stealth6 |
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ef_falcon_95 wrote: Then the drill started smoking and burnt out lol LMAO Thats happened to me 
_________________ Yep, I don't know what to write here... |
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| phillyc |
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ef_falcon_95 wrote: Started cutting out the base for the plenum . Then the drill started smoking and burnt out lol Came across this thread after starting research on a turbo build myself. With the drill bit / hole saw burning out were you using any lube? ie wd40 or oil etc? Also, what speed were you doing it at? Usually this is the problem! The rough formula for drill speed I was taught as an apprentice was to use is rpm = 300 x V / D. V is the speed of the drill in metres / min. D is the size in diameter in mm. High Speed Steel is about 15m/min (hardened steel) to 35 m/min cutting mild steel and about 75m/min for aluminium. For those runners (40mm?) it would be in alloy. So rpm would be 300 x 75 / 40 = 562rpm max. Here is a good link. Hopefully it can save you money. http://www.uddeholm.com/files/Cutting_D ... ax_eng.pdf Anyway, enjoying your thread, sorrry to see the engine let go due to the bad tune. Good luck with the rest of the build, you'll end up with a tough motor! Edit: changed m/s to m/min! |
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| ef_falcon_95 |
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Thanks for the info I don't think the speed caused it to burn out . I used oil aswell . I think it was the stress on the drill . I'm using a drill press now and have had no issues so far with it burning out . This motor has a lot more torque than a hand drill .
_________________ El XR6 Turbo |
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| ef_falcon_95 |
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Double post
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| mitchell g |
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you burnt the drill motor not the drill bit?
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| ef_falcon_95 |
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The drill motor . Hole saw is fine only cutting alloy .
_________________ El XR6 Turbo |
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| mitchell g |
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i thought it was the drill bit too
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