Ok, so I think I have everything to complete the conversion. Here is a list of the things I've collected:

-T5 Gearbox
-6 Bolt flywheel
-Strengthened manual pedal box
-Spigot Bearing
- Clutch
- Clutch cable
- Trans oil
- Lubrizoil 7906
- 1.2 and 6.8 k ohm 'trickster' resistors.

Am I forgetting anything?

Check this out! This is the engine that we are using for a job. 700 BHP of John Deere Muscle.



Thanks,

Evan.

See what happens when it's raining and you get bored:



Slight change in plan. I will be using a manual ECU courtesy of BOSXR8. And it looks like I'll be chopping up the auto loom. The wiring that came with the T5 doesn't quite marry up with the loom in the car. The Neutral switch wiring terminates in the big square plug and a single plug:



It's all planned to go in next weekend.

Thanks,

Evan

well at least youl have a fancy looking belhousing to look at when working under the car, until the road grime gets to it and turns it s**t lol
does the red make you change gear faster or something?
youl love the manual!

Yep. Just like my red sump allows the engine to rev to 9,500 RPM and adds 50 BHP!

Looks better than corroded alloy though...

yeah it sure does.
now it makes me wanna paint mine when i pull it all out, thinking of dropping an au motor in soon since most of my gasgets or seals are now leaking lol
hmm what colour shall i go? probably black

Woot! Car has a clutch pedal now. It's not connected to anything yet, but it has a clutch pedal. Problem is that the dashboard isn't connected to anything at the moment. I shall rectify that tomorrow.

Met up with BOSXR8 this morning to collect a manual ecu. His car is immaculate. To be honest I was a little embarassed about the state of my car lol.

Thanks,

Evan.

did you use an original clutch pedal box or a mal wood clutch pedal?

Nope, used the original and the best.

Here's how I did it:

First disconnect the negative terminal of the battery. Then, remove the centre console:



Then remove the shroud from the steering column, undo the 2 nuts securing the steering column to the dash. Lower it to the floor.



Remove the 2 screws from the top of the radio surround and remove the surround:



Remove the handbrake trim panel and undo the nuts securing the handbrake bracket to the car and firewall. Lower handbrake to the floor:



Remove the sill panels and kick panels from the left and right hand sides:



Undo the screw securing the bonnet release cable to the dash. Withdraw rearwards and lower to the floor:



Undo the screws on the glovebox hinges. Remove glovebox from the car.



Working through the glovebox hole, disconnect the heater selector cable:



Undo the 2 allen screws from the dashboard extension panel and remove from the car:



Well, so it turns out my car was optioned with premium sound:



Disconnect the wiring for the tweeters (if fitted) and the dashboard earth wire. Undo the lower dash bolts and then get an assistant to help you with the next bit. Undo the top dash screws. Then, you should be able to pull the dash forward enough to suitably mark all of the wiring plugs and
then disconnect them. You should then be able to swing the dash across and rest it on the driver's seat.

Undo the 5 nuts securing the pedal box to the firewall and brake booster. Remove the split pin from the brake pedal and slip the brake booster pushrod off the brake pedal. Then remove the 3 nuts holding the top of the pedal box to the firewall:



Then you should be able to take the blasted thing out.

Look mum, no brakes!



Here are the auto and manual pedal boxes side by side:



Refitting is a reverse of the removal. Or so they say. I had to "Get Custom" with a hammer to bend the top flange forward so it would fit. And there you are. Three pedals:



I hope it goes back together easily.

Thanks,

Evan.

i hope you re enforced the pedal box around pedal pin area??
they are known for cracking and bending just like the firewall....

Sure did:

Looking good man! I especially love the bellhousing!

Have you rebuilt the T5 or had it rebuilt? I've got mine out on the driveway atm, changing the clutch that blew up last weekend.

Cheers

ToranaGuy

that will work,,,

Great work Evan just spent a casual hour reading everything love it. Takes me back a few years had one many years ago same colur but a manual loved it. Hope all goes well with the manual conversion should be straightforward now you have done dash. Will be doing one in my NL Fairlane soon. Just need to get clutch cable and J3 chip. After seeing dash pull out I think I will be getting MAl Wood kit have been looking for manual pedal box but they seem to be as rare as rocking horse s**t. Are you using new bolts for flywheel to crank and pressure plate to flywheel. I believe bolts from flywheel to crank maybe of different lenght to allow for extra thickness on flywheel.

Cheers

Steve

Nice work Ev!
Gee you don't muck around haha

No, it's as is. I guess I'm taking a big chance there. But, it feels tight in the gear shifter (not wobbly in gear), which I have heard is a good sign.

Yeah, the bellhousing came up pretty nice didn't it. What I didn't show was the 2.5 hours and 2 dremel mini wire brushes spent on the prep work. Worth it in the end.



Thanks man!

The dash out is a lot easier than it looks, now that I've done it myself. And, yes, I have procured new flywheel and clutch bolts. Got them for the princely sum of $10 from the bolt shop. I was 3 short on the flywheel ones as the first flywheel I got was a 3 bolt one. Crank bolts are M10fine x 30 High Tensile and the Pressure plate bolts are M8 a*** x 25 high tensile.



I wouldn't get anything done if I did