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| evxr6 |
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{USERNAME} wrote: So envious of you having a company vehicle now  Does that mean more extensive mods on the falcon now that its a "weekender" ?  With it being harder to start I'd say it could be either the dizzy cap or the coil, especially if they're original items... From memory they aren't too much price wise? Yeah, hopefully I will feel up to checking the coil tomorrow. You can get a Bosch one for $55 off evilBay. |
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| evxr6 |
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Yep, the coil is screwed. Ordering new one.
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| evxr6 |
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The new coil was delivered yesterday and after a stimulating day sitting at M4 Eastbound Maccas waiting for the rest of my work crew to show up and then not, I put it in this evening.
Just in case you forgot where they put the ignition coil on E-series 6 cylinders. {DESCRIPTION} It's actually not as hard as it looks. Here's the new one in {DESCRIPTION} The top bolt had to be removed and installed from the top.  Looking back on these photos, looks like I forgot to bolt that little cylinder thing back on. And it doesn't seem to have solved the hot start issue. But, it does seem to run a bit smoother. I think that I will replace the entire distributor including the TFI module. I am so glad that the dizzy is even MORE inaccessible than the coil. Cheers, Ev. |
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| evxr6 |
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After bolting that little cylinder thing back on, no idea what it is or does, the hot start problem seems to be solved.
There is no mention of it in either of my service manuals. So, can any of you EEC-IV nerds out there shed any light on it? |
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| SWC |
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The cylinder thing you speak of is a RF noise reducer, stops static caused by the ignition system.
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| evxr6 |
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{USERNAME} wrote: The cylinder thing you speak of is a RF noise reducer, stops static caused by the ignition system. Cheers, Paul. In that case I am glad I have a new dizzy coming for it. Bosch, made in Australia and everything. Edit: still acting up hot start... New dizzy! |
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| evxr6 |
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I changed the distributor yesterday. Not a hard job, just fiddly due to the location of the dizzy.
Comparing the old with the new. Note the absence of an O ring on the old one. Probably why there is a lot of oil and crap on that side. {DESCRIPTION} {DESCRIPTION} I got it in there, relatively easily. {DESCRIPTION} It turns out that I didn't tighten the clamp bolt properly because on the test drive towards the end there was a severe lack of power and smoke coming out of the bonnet. The extractors got so hot they were glowing red and nearly setting the firewall liner on fire. So, I called the NRMA for h-e-l-p. When the guy arrived he was able to move the dizzy just by nudging it. Turns out they don't have extensions in their socket sets and I had to nurse it home. I re-timed it and then re-checked it this morning. I think that it's a tooth out on the drive gear because it is advanced as far as it can go and it's still 5deg BTDC. I will have to reset the distributor when I feel like it. At least it's driveable now, it's just not quite as quick as it could be. |
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| Lukeee |
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Glad to hear you ended up sorting it out mate and there was no major damage!
Did it at least fix the starting problem you were having?
_________________ Weekender: 07 BFII XR6T - Conquer |
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| evxr6 |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Glad to hear you ended up sorting it out mate and there was no major damage! Did it at least fix the starting problem you were having? Hard to say. I think that it is better, but I think when it is timed right, it will be solved. It's just that now because the timing is a little bit retarded, I think that it is having trouble starting, but not as much as before. |
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| evxr6 |
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Today I pulled my finger out and reset the dizzy. It was as I had suspected a tooth out on the drive gear. It took a couple of goes, but it eventually ended up in the right spot, 10 deg BTDC.
I also put some oil in the T5. Last time I checked it was when I swapped it in over a year ago. I think the diff is getting a bit rooted. There is a whining noise consistant with speed, not engine revs at around 70-80 km/h. Also, I think the LSD has run out of limited, because with the rear jacked up and car in gear, you can spin one wheel and the other will go in the opposite direction. - Meh Ev. |
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| evxr6 |
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Let me run this by whoever reads this.
The car won't start easily when warm. I reckon it might be the fuel pump. If you just try to start it, it will crank and crank and crank for like 10 seconds and eventually, it will start. But, I have be experimenting lately. If you cycle the key and prime the fuel system 3 times and then attempt to start, it will start properly. |
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| DOHCED |
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Yeah my el been doing that lately, though does it in a cold start also, prime it a few times and it starts, will be good too find the problem out, very annoying apart from the auto thudding on gear changes all the time
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_________________ XG Ute - 3 Seater - Auto - Dual Fuel |
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| TROYMAN |
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in theory sounds like you could be onto something, have you changed fuel filter? have the injectors ever been cleaned??
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| DOHCED |
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I've done the fuel filter on mine last month or so, thinking about putting my au injectors in tomorrow and see if it changes it.
_________________ XG Ute - 3 Seater - Auto - Dual Fuel |
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| evxr6 |
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The fuel filter's been in for about 50,000, so could probably be retired. No, the injectors haven't been cleaned.
So, looks like I need a non Fuel-miser brand fuel pump, fuel filter and clean the injectors. Is it really necessary to make the special tool to extract the fuel pump? |
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