Yeah i'm a bit lazy, i couldn't be bothered ripping the sump off the engine to have it modified haha.

As for an engineers report, i really dont think it would pass. But i dont drive in a manner to attract the attention from the authorities.

if it is welded by a workshop couldnt they supply a report to say yes it can handle this and that and so forth?

just remember one day you'll be in a prang. would you wanna risk the likelihood of injuring or killing a love one? one look by the authority and they'll ban everything to do with modifications all together or make it tougher for the next bloke who wise do mod the same as well.

get the K-frame reinforced, weld & close that opening you cut out of it. better to be safe & sure then sorry.

I, personally, would've gone with the modded sump, looks like they can be easily welded, as some aluminium castings can be riddled with silicon or manganese, which doesnt help weldability.

I would like to see the look on your face when you cant drive this car as it hasnt been engineered, due to the structural changes.

You probably would only have to reinforce the front and bottom of the frame to bring it back to the original strength, which would be a piece of cake, and cost f**k-all.

Good luck with it all

Daz

you cant modify the sump on the ba engines as you can with the au engines. On the ba engine the oil pump is driven staright off the crankshaft on the front of the motor, you just cant get enough clearance out of the ba sump without modding the subframe.

What i would be doing is putting an ea-ed subframe in the car and modifying it. its different in design and allot easier to modify.

Trust me ive done it

Fair enough, had another look at the the front of the sump, where the bulge is near the harmonic balancer, no doubt that where the housing for the pump is......I would radius the corners of the cuts, and box it back in, and that should be ok, get some pics so the engineer can see that you made a decent effort to strengthen it, and not some half-a*** hack job gone bad. Not trying to insult you, just would be a shame to spend time and money, only to be denied the enjoyment of it all for a simple fix.....

Cheers

Daz

Jeez guys give me a break, the photos i showed you before were just of an engine test fit to check clearances. I wasn't installing the engine without closing up and strengthening the crossmember. Anyway, it's all been done so there's no turning back!

Got the car back this morning, bolted up the torque converter and gearbox and basically threw it all in haha. Installed new transmission lines radiator and transmission cooler. All i have to do now is to sort out the wiring, weld a new [BA] flange onto my extractors and have the power steering hose i had made, shortened doh!

Oh and sorry about all the pictures, just thought people might be interested.

The crossmemeber, reinforced with 4mm plate high tensile steel.


The vertical part of the reinforcement has been welded to the bottom of the inside of the crossmember for added rigidity.


The horizontal part of the reinforcement has been welded onto the vertical part and onto the edge of the crossmember.


Engine in, plenty of clearance.


From beneath.


Reused EL engine mounts, they're alot more compact than the BA ones.


Torque converter on, thanks to those that pointed out the access port underneath the engine hahahaha!


Gearbox on.


Re used the EL starter motor.


Engine and gearbox just about to be dropped in.


Engine and gearbox bolted in, it aint going anywhere.


Like everything in Texas, the head is hooooooge!


Braided transmission lines.


Routing lines to front.


Trans cooler and new radiator.


And last but not least, the engine bay as i leave it after a hard days work.

Looks good! Must say I'm pretty impressed at how fast you're doing this. Now comes the really tricky part (the wiring)

Will a bonnet bulge be nessecary to fit the head under the bonnet???

Already sorted , check my gallery. I knew it would come in handy one day heehee.

Thank's for the encouragement TwistedEL, i'm quite surprised myself at how quickly it has gone together.

Just a few questions though, has anyone seen on other BA conversions hw people attached the cruise control and throttle cables? I've hit a wall on this and have no idea how im going to attach them .

Also, does anyone know if the cam phasing is two position (as in on -off) or infinitely variable (as in pulsed)? If it's a simple on-off thing, then im in luck. Fingers crossed....

im pretty sure if your using the standard ecu and throttle body running fly by wire throttle, you have to run the standard BA pedel box.

Variable, through a range of (i think) 40 degrees

sweet as looking good fordman, coming along nice and quick

possible to swap the BA TB with the EL TB?

That's what i have done, i'm using the EL throttle. Unfortunately the intake tube on the throttle gets in the way of the cables, there's not alot of room to move there.