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| EFFalcon |
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you lied, you said it was on 20's... they're not on the car.
i feel ripped off!
_________________ FALCN6 - EF GLi Turbo, 20" Rims, Air Bag Suspension, Straight LPG, 225rwkw |
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| KWIKXR |
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EFFalcon wrote: you lied, you said it was on 20's... they're not on the car. i feel ripped off! Me too  Nice choice of rims mate, they should go well on the EL and give it a tough, yet classy stance. Look forward to seeing the fitted up 
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| MICKYYYY |
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Get those bad boys on ASAP
_________________ Wanted Either Capri/Cortina/XY/XW/XR/XT with tough V8 stroker engine, auto, 9inch, upgraded brakes etc[/SIZE][/size][/color] |
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| fordman351 |
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EFFalcon wrote: you lied, you said it was on 20's... they're not on the car. i feel ripped off! There ya go, changed the title for ya MICKYYYY wrote: Get those bad boys on ASAP They probably won't be going on untill i get the car running, need all the spare cash i can get to buy the last bits and pieces to give the car life 
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| Maso_Ghia |
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u got a mad project going on. just wondering, would it of been easer to install the hole wiring loom from a ba?
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| fordman351 |
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Thanks man. Yeah it could possibly have been easier to install the whole loom, but i wanted to keep the interior original, maintaining the standard dash and instrument cluster. I'm pretty sure 'Bollocks' here on the forum does plug-and-play looms now.
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| fordman351 |
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s**t, i have problems, electrical problems.
I've recently shifted the battery to the boot, now everything is going crazy. Interior and indication lights are working fine EG: brake lights, interior lights, indicators, dash backlighting, climate control etc. Now when i turn the key, the fuel pump doesn't prime, odometer readings don't display on the instrument cluster, the volt gauge doesn't register and the throttle doesn't move. I tried a new battery and went over the whole engine wiring looms twice, but i cannot find a fault but the funny thing is, when i turn the key fully off the throttle keeps clicking over untill i disconnect the battery Be stuffed if i know what it is.
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| ED_XR6_5 SPEED |
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thats a tricky one
 if you dont have a reply or answer by tomorrow night i will ask my mate about that one he is an auto elec, most of the time that sort of stuff has a realy simple solution
_________________ 98%of city drivers will say ''holly s**t'' befor going into a ditch in a snowstorm and 98%of country drivers will say ''hold my beer and watch this'' |
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| fordman351 |
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Thanks mate, i'd apreciate that alot! I've checked all earth points, but now that i think about it, the ECM earth point where it's rivited to the chassis, might not be that great...i'll have to check tomorrow.
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| twase |
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Check your earthing, before the battery move there would have been a connection straight between the battery earth and the block and another from the block to earth.
_________________ BF Fairmont Ghia Series II update. |
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| fordman351 |
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I have 260amp earth lead running the full length of the car to the block from the battery and also have an earth lead attached to the body in the boot area. The earthing point in the engine bay where the battery originally was where it attached to the coolant bottle stand has also been connected to the chassis.
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| MAD |
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Do you still have an earth strap from Engine Block to Chassis?
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| fordman351 |
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Well, i have an earth from the battery to the body, which is virtually the same thing. E-Series never had an earth from the block directly to the chassis.
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| TROYMAN |
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yea its the connection from the earth lead and the earth wires at the battery.. then that is earthed to the body through out the loom..
try earth the block to the body.. you may be surprised... |
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| frankieh |
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If you have a digital multimeter, it would be worth testing the resistance of the various lines back to the battery... if that is the only thing you changed between working and not working... makes sense it is related.. unless you accidentally unplugged something when running the cable though the firewall.
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