the fastest "stocker" in the country strikes again

Sorry dude but you can't be serious. But you are right. Just muck around with push rod length is just "mucking" around.

Anyone that builds a performance engine and doesn't use fully adjustable rockers for precise preload adjustment is plain crazy.

IMHO the best are full shaft rockers with adjustable pushrod seats followed by single pedastals with adjustable seats followed by adjustable post rockers, all of which give you the ability to adjust each valve with precise preload, unlike stock pedastals and rockers.

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I guess a few people need a bit of an education as to why there were different pushrod lengths...

We did NOT change the pushrod length to get correct 'preload' but to get the correct rocker geometry. Once the correct geometry was obtained you fit the pushrod of the correct lenght. Seeing as pushrod manufacturers only make them in 0.050" increments you will NEVER get the perfect length off the shelf.

For a 'mechanic' I think you need to get a better understanding of what effect these sorts of things have on an engine.

Well its well overdue now so heres a quick vid of the ute @ idle, wasnt long after start-up so she was still abit cold.

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I'm going by the assumption that the rocker geometry was already set!!!!!!! What has pushrod length got to do with geometry???? Someone has to go back to trade school I think . Pedastal height is what determines geometry the rod only affects preload. Just got to make sure those valve tip to rocker clearances are in spec on TDC. Thats if all other variables are in tolerance/spec.

Hmmmm, try everything.


No, Bottledup is saying the pushrod length was first determined for geometry reasons, not for preload reasons. I assume you have therefore wondered why people use pushrod checkers !!!

Most cam companies and for that matter engine builders have their own preferred method of "rocker geometry" such as over arching, under arching or mid lift etc

I prefer mid lift. But in all, the correct pushrod length is the first item to verify.

Once you have determined the correct pushrod length and if for instance you are using midlift and you have pedastals, then yes you may have to remove or add a few thou spacers to the pedastal to get the exact midlift reading but correct pushrod length in the first place is the whole key. If you are using midlift and have stud rockers then the easy way to get any final adjustment is to alter the pushrod length. so that's why you use a checker first !!!!!

If you have pedastals and don't have adjustable pushrod seat rockers you also then need to take into account the preload required with rocker ratio etc in determining the length to buy. But as Bottledup indicates other than special order pushrods most manufactures only do .050 increment pushrods so this has to be factored in.


Definately, but before you enrol you might like to brush up

Comp Cams don't use midlift but it's all essentially the same before you get to items 2, 4.

http://www.compcams.com/Technical/FAQ/V ... ometry.asp

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I prefer mid lift. But in all, the correct pushrod length is the first item to verify.

Once you have determined the correct pushrod length and if for instance you are using midlift and you have pedastals, then yes you may have to remove or add a few thou spacers to the pedastal to get the exact midlift reading but correct pushrod length in the first place is the whole key.

How can you have the correct pushrod length when your rocker pedestals require shimming boy? shimming will alter lifter to valve/pushrod to rocker clearances . I think you've got things a@#se about.

You prefer mid lift??? How many years you've been building motors for and working on cars.

LoL! Don't let the age you see there fool ya...

I would say definitley not the right person to be questionaing about how his car goes together. As Scaffy said, Don't let the Age fool you.

Amazing how our mate t2 appears back on here now he is banned on FF.au again.

Boy !! Mate, I think it’s obvious whose the boy. Didn’t you understand CC’s article.

Dude, you are using a pushrod checker to get all this info, so obviously at various stages it still may not be the exact correct length before you actually BUY any pushrods, ie you may need a few more thou to get exact midlift, so you either add or remove height from the pedestals and recheck etc until you obtain the final correct geometry.

You now know the pushrod length you need for correct geometry and go BUY pushrods using this info but now also take into account the amount of preload you want, ie the whole issue is you determine the correct pushrod length for geometry purposes first, not preload.

I hope you're not one of those fools that tries a few different length pushrods on a rebuilt engine to obtain a .030 preload and then think it's perfect, when the geometry probably sucks big time. Oops is that what you do do.

With under arching or over arching geometry they really are only guesstimate methods as neither have any proper set parameters, unlike midlift where you can use a dial gauge to set it exact.


I fail to see what this has to do with understanding rocker geometry and there are many younger and older guys out there clueier than me, but it seems you’re not one of them. However, if it’s that important to you, lets just say you parents probably hadn't even met when my first Ford engine was in bits

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Pack of rip off merchants and fachist dictators on that forum. A sqaubble/frackar amongst members shouldn't equal a ban by no means.

My car should be ready in 2 months, just ordered some SVO X307 heads for $2,300. Should have something to brag about once finished. Then again couldn't give a hoot about other peoples opinions.

If you've got beefs with people take it to PM, I get bored trawling through pages of personal attacks.

Regardless... All the best with your X307s, what happened to your original GT40Ys?

I made a mistake while installing the other cam. Lets say the intake valve broke off the stem got C**k in the cylinder and made a mess of the motor .

People may use this at ammo but I really don't care. Everyone dig in I say.

Simple thing like dial indicator and degree wheel SHOULD always be used on installation of camshaft/valvetrain!!!!!!! Yes and the crank sproket didn't have any timing marks.

Anyway I need to go have a cry. The only way I can redeem myself is if I get it to run 13's on stock tune and componentry

Ouch....you paid 2300 for X heads?