Im slightly jelous but more than anything happy for ya Wel done!!!

lol cheers, it was a bit of a quick decision, gf's dad bought a EF wagon and needed a fw parts, then we found a rolled EF and bought it and all the electrics were left so i thought bugger it, i always wanted to do it lets just do it.

todays update, i dint get much done as i found out the body loom in a futura doesnt have the rear power window wires, so my choices are to wire them up using the NC loom, OR purchase one from a ebay member 1 suburb over who is wrecking a NF fairlane, im getting the dash and carpet off him some time in the next week.

today i removed the NC interior and removed the factory body loom, floor looks clean and rust free.

fitted up the front loom, i hid all the relays and fuses inside the panel

this is the pic i was ment to post last night





relays mounted inside panel

home made L brackts to hole the fuse box


just need to extent the header tank sensor which im going to run down inside the wheel arch and bring it out just below the bottle

this is with the drivers headlight installed - the white wire will be shortened and run to the distro block which im going to mount on the side where the factory relays would sit.


this is the passenger side with headlight installed, tho it might not have the loom you can see there, as im looking to bypass the ABS unit so no wires will be needed past the aircon plug.

and last but not least this is the thermo fan relays i mounted under the headlight, i did have to move it a bit lower due to lugs on the bottom of the headlights

Nice work on hiding the wiring dude! Only issue with hiding the fuseable links is that it will be a pita to get to if you blow one. I've been thinking about making my engine bay neater, hiding the wiring up under the guards, but i'll leave the fuseable links out so they are easy to change. I currently have my relays hidden under the coolant bottle, it does the job of hiding them away quite well, but they are not too hard to get to if i need to swap a relay.

Cheers

ToranaGuy

i did think about this and well to be honest, in all the years i have been driving e-series i havnt blown a fuse or relay yet, and if i do ill just have to remove the guard, i might leave the bolt off under the headlight so that i can remove the panel easier

i wont get time to work on it today as i went to start the wagon today and nothing, plenty of battery power just no starter, and no relay click, so i have to sort that out first as it sold on ebay. cant sell them a non running car when the ad said it was. ahh the stress lol

Fair enough dude. I've had to replace a few fuses & relays due to dodgy LPG installer wiring causing issues, but i've got it all sorted now, so i too could probably hide them, but i won't. I've been too busy to get anything done on my project's in the last few days, but today is looking good so far, need to duck out & get some degreaser, some lunch & then i can rip into it.

Cheers

ToranaGuy

i need to cut up a coolent sensor and make some brackets to hold the coolent bottle up.

might get the sensor part done tonight

todays update, i havnt gotten much done as i have been pretty crook and had a job interview which went good, its just casual work but i have 3 days next week so it will help me finish this project a bit, im now on the hunt for a set of extractors, any brand. mainly to neaten up the engine bay, and ill save for the pacemaker comps.

after reading a few threads, i noticed everyone was going EA header tanks due to mounting points etc, so i went into my person parts shed and i had a few of these laying about, so i picked one up and sat it in the engine bay to compare, the 2 holes for the tank dont have threaded holes, its just drilled empty holes, so i need to bolt it on when i buy some stainless bolts.

apart from this it looks very neat, the EA hose runs alone the 1/4 panel so it sits right out of the way, i then had a thought about how i was going to run the wires for the water level sensor, so i walked up to the NC tank and cut the sensor wires off, the cut the plug and a bit of wires off the NC loom. My first idea of using the factory air line for the rear self leveling shocks went down the drain as it makes the wire hang in the middle of everything and sticks out like dogs balls


then i thought about using the indicator hole

again not happy, then i spotted a small hole from factory, it comes out right before the channeling of the inner guard, so i threaded the wires through and fed it through a second hole right near the sensor plug


then i mucked around with the plugs to see if i could hide it more and if i hook it around the back of the hose pipe it hides it pretty damn good


as you may have spotted in the pics above i also ran the mains power wire, used my new hole saw set again and spent about 2 minutes jumping in and out of the car comparing locations to drill, finally decided on a location which ended up being perfect, it mostly protected by the vac sphere and i used my cable holders to hold the cable in a safe spot





i decided on the cheaper distro block for power splitting because of 1 main factor, the stinger unit which is about 1/3 of the size needed small screws and were located inside the plastic protector, and with power running through the block i didnt want to chance the power jumping the 2mm to the screw and shorting out to the body, in this setup its much more safer. i will however need to plug up any unused holes and access holes in the top, but it should be pretty easy

and for those interested, this is where the cable runs inside the car

ill throw a piece of corrugated tubing over the wire where it enters the cabin so it doesnt rub on the body piece and eventually cut through

so now this is how the front sections will look loom wise



on the passenger side im hoping to re-run the charcoal canister lines a little neater and hidden as it looks a little messy how it is but with the factory airbox in place you dont really notice it

Looking good man, the work is paying off! That engine bay is going to look real neat when done!

Also, congrats on the job! It might not be much, but it's a start. I've got an interview tomorrow that i think should go rather well, the job i'm going for should turn out to be pretty easy for me.

Cheers

ToranaGuy

cheers, yeah he said if i work 15 hours a week i can do the free cert 3 in something lol, its just cleaning, but i have done it for the past 3 years so i know what im doing which is a bonus, also helps when moving out of rentals, stuff paying 500+ for someone to clean the house lol

good luck with the interview tomorrow

i fixed a few issues today, when i removed the loom from the EF i removed all the fuses but smashed the middle one as i didnt know it was screwed in, so i went to supercheap today and grabbed a new one along with a 6 pin plug to extend the wiper motor loom, i just need to soldier those 2 wires for the coolant sensor and the guard can go back on.





hidden disro block, but really easy to gain access too if you need a wire removed


and since the loom runs through the guard now it left a big hole under the dash, so some left over flash tak from bunnings was put to use. seals it up great, and being tar backed its strong and cuts out sound. i put a layer on the inside aswell as in the engine bay

Cool. It took me a while when i removed the EF fuses from a wreck to work that out, you flip the plastic clip & unbolt the fuse lol. Wiper extension looks good too.

Cheers

ToranaGuy

yeah i spent 20 minutes trying to pry the thing out while it was still in the car. lets hope i dont blow a fuse lol


i cant wait much longer for the car to be running, so over the weekend im throwing the new head gasket on and changing the torque converters over, and if i get time install the motor and box. and for now so i have some room ill be just laying the body loom inside the car so i can hook up the fuel pump so it can be moved, then it will make way so the laser can be finished. as once the motor is done i can do the rest from anywhere in the yard as its just laying the fairmont loom, carpet, new door looms and adapting the tail lights

got a bit of neatening done today, finished the loom behind the guard, worked out the black plug was ment to be earth not positive so i fixed that issue, cleaned the inner guard where the metal shavings from all the drilling. fitted new loom holder things and lifted the loom, repainted the section of engine bay i sprayed blue and fixed up alot of the loom left int he bay






this is where i mounted the earth point when i realized its earth not positive

this section i had to split from the loom as im not running the ABS at the moment

but didnt chop it as i might end up installing the EL unit
from here on in the pics go s**t as the light was fading fast

this section i stripped back due to the fact i needed to extend the headlight piece across more so it fit, so new corrugated tubing was installed

and last but not least the thermo side all ziptied up into place so i dont loose cables like the indicator, and there is plenty of movement in the cable so i can just pull it down into place



hoping a mate can take me to wacol tomorrow for the all you can carry for $49, then i can grab a dash, door trims, loom and maybe carpet if i can find them. then ill be set to go. if not im going to mod the factory loom to accept the rear power windows, and just use my cracked dash and run a dash mat

thanks for looking

Nice work dude. Makes me want to hide my wiring, but i have so many other jobs that need to be done first, like my clutch.

Cheers

ToranaGuy