looking good huggie, when will the turbo be going on? and will you be installing it yourself

cheers bear

the kit should arrive monday or tuesday next week. so it will be going on as soon as i can get time to do it. first up will be the return feed hole, then drain the oil and change the oil and filter, then bolt up the turbo kit. i still need cooler piping so wont be running for a while yet.

Looking real good dude! I've got a trans cooler from a EA-ED heavy duty tow pack that I want to setup as a power steer cooler. It's about twice the size of the EF item, so it should cool it real well. Any cooling is going to benefit the power steering system. I just need to find some money for new hoses so i can set mine up.

Your header tank pipe looks like it will be nicely tucked out of the way. I hope your fitting on the radiator tank holds up!

Cheers

ToranaGuy

the cooler on the right hand side (passenger side) is a EA-ED HD tow pack cooler with factory brackets but i made it fit on the passenger side tho its a bloody tight fit, had to remove the aircon pipe then fit loosely then tighten the aircon pipe then finish tightening the bracket lol.

i was worried about the smaller cooler not being secured properly but after bolting it up, it isnt moving anywhere. im quite happy with how things are progressing now. i have to move a bit of wiring to move about over the next week so the intercooler piping will have plenty of room.

I thought it looked like one, the cooler on the right hand side.

Take some good pics of this wiring that you are moving, i'm sure others will be interested in where you are hiding it.

Cheers

ToranaGuy

its more the thermo relays, i want to move them underneath so there is more room for the cooler piping tho i might have to make an extension plug for the thermo wiring to the fans. the other piece i have to move is the distro block joining the alternator wire... i might see about joining the 2 wires straight using a clip like ford do from the factory

well a small amount to update. i have done the boot lid wiring and the tail lights. from factory the NC has 4 tail lights but only 2 of which are also brake lights.. this has always annoyed me as it makes it look like you have 2 blown globes. so i tested the brake socket in the tail light hole on the garnish and it fits perfect so im off to the wreckers on Wednesday and im picking up some EA-ED sockets. i have the wire already there i just need the socket to make it work.


im still trying to work out the 1 bug i have with the electrical system.. which with the amount of mods done only 1 issue is fantastic.


as soon as i connect the battery the high beam lights turn on as does the indicator on the dash.. HOWEVER my first thoughts were indicator stick.. its not that as when you pull on the stick you can hear the relay ticking over in the engine bay thus eliminating the power source coming from the car side of the relay. will the wrong headlight switch cause this? i have about 11ty million of them i might swap it over and see what happens.

turbo kit was sent today so it should arrive up here in the next few days. it was delayed as geoff done some mods to suit my application for me. he is sending me some pics of the setup tomorrow morning.

i also just bought a heap of 4ply silicon joiners and bends online from 999automotive 2x 3"to2.5" reducers, 1x 90 degree 3"to2.5" reducer, and 1x 2.5" 90 degree bend.

basically its going to be 2.5" piping from the turbo to the intercooler and out the other side and as it passes the indicator it will step up to 3" until the throttle body.

the intercooler i scored is from blackers10 that he has on his 1JZ cressida, it has 3" inlet and outlet so thats where the reducers will come into play. im planning to have the rest welded.

for now ill be using mild steel around the front of the car, and alloy for the 3" as it will just be easier to get bits for.

for the exhaust im deciding on 3 systems..

option 1: 3" system from front to back
option 2: 3" system until the muffler, then split into twin 2.25" up over the diff and out the back
option 3: use a XR6T style car and go straight to twin 2.25" system


out of the 3 i cant decide what way to go. i could even use twin cats, so split the exhaust at the dump pipe then run 2 small cats 1 on each pipe then 1 small muffler on each pipe.
again im not sure what way to go with. opinions may help

last but not least, i bought a flaring kit and done the tranny lines. just need to bolt them on and add some hoses and its done.


more updates as it happens.

Where did you get the flare kit from? - Im looking at one to do the same, and probably some fuel lines as well...

supercheap auto, sale price is 50 bucks but they are ringing up at 40. its a double flaring kit which you need for brake lines. seems to work pretty good

Hmmm.. thats a good price...

yeah i thought so too, i was prepared to pay the 60, but getting 20 off the price is awesome.

i still need a pipe bender (they had them for $15) and a pipe cutter as the hacksaw just doesnt keep the burrs away lol

+1 for option 3

Should stop any drone affect, no change in pipe size front to back. Some places say anything bigger then 2.5" is to big and 2.25" is best. Then again you have a turbo application.

Cheers.

Huggie, add an option 4 in, headers to 2.25" x-pipe, then to twin 2.25" pipes right out the back. (with your choice of mufflers obviously)

The magnaflow 10780 is a perfect x-pipe, it's what i'm going with.

i dont think a x-pipe will be much use since its coming from 1 pipe anyways. remember its a 6 not an 8

if i can find a quality splitter im going to split it before the cats, if not ill have to split it after the cat or inside the muffler...

i think ill research the cost of all 3 options and go from there

Huggie, nice job with the flaring tube, but, stupid question... should the nuts be on the pipe b4 you flare the ends?