yeah i have been trimming them as i go along. the welds that were pre done were already cleaned. that why there is no massive sections of pipe.. as i have the flexible line on the dremmel so tape it to a stick and you can reach right inside

small update. water feed is now in. cooler pipes were painted black, apart from that i picked up a few bits like a-pillar covers, EF selector (as i was using a NC/EF hybrid unit) now its a matter of connecting all the hoses up such as turbo oil feed and return, then buy some better quality water hose as it will be near some extreme heat and i dont want to have issues. someone suggested fuel line?

now i just need a heap of clamps (aprox $60 worth) and im going to organize the EF loom plug for the ECU adapter this week so i can finally get it done.

a question for those who know turbos.. should i connect the return line then pour some fresh oil into the turbo unit to protect it a bit before i start the car?

thats about it for now. wont be much progress as i have a heap of work and rego on the daily coming up this month. but it shouldnt be too long now






forgot to mention i also got my LED strips for the indicators, so over the next few days ill have a go at fitting the LED strips to the indicator housing...

Good work as usual, BTW where did the idea of tapping into the welsh plug come from, is this a common way of doing an after market install?

came from geoff from snort. as i bought the kit through him i thought it would be best to see where he done it. he kindly sent the welsh plug to me with fitting on it (minus speedflow fitting)

others i have seen take it from the thermostat housing where the bypass to the header tank is. but thats the hottest point of water in the whole system. the coolest would be as it exits the radiator. some put it on the water pump bypass that runs past my fitting in the pics but its before the water pump so in theory it wouldnt be flowing ~ less cooling effect. where as the welsh plugs are after the water pump so would be under a bit of pressure so therefor should then push up through the hose to the turbo.

only issue is.. with every new bottom end a new fitting on welsh plug will be needed. but i have a brasing kit now so i can do a few more when needed.

huggiebear, you may want to try the wreckers for clamps....I got a heap of 3inch clamps off late model cars for $5 for ABC Auto on Ipswich rd, which was a lot cheaper than buying them new.

Joe

hey joe, i want the thicker ones that can be tightened to buggery.. i have 2 on there i got from revengelane but i need some more lol

Cool, sounds like you know what you need!

Joe

ok this will be my last update for a while as im moving into a new house this weekend so i wont get time to work on the car for a few weeks as it will still be at this location until i can hire a car tailor to move the 2 cars. so ill do an update on the car as it sits.

had an issue with the water fitting on the welsh plug, today i was fitting the speedflow fitting to it, had only JUST started to get tight and the fitting snaps off the welsh plug.. im thinking they used the wrong solder or something as i didnt put much pressure on it at all. i did my usual cursing and yelling and decided i cant be stuffed getting another fitting or trying to brase the fitting back on so i bought a new welsh plug and ill fit that and just run the water from the thermostat housing and be done with it.

my LED's for the dash/interior and front indicators have all arrived and are fully working so progress will be moving on slowly with this over the next few weeks.

im also in talks with a mate and it looks like im picking up the gearbox which has had over 3k of work done to it that should help the driveline a bit.

i have a mate picking up an AU motor (complete) that blows a little smoke on start up that i scored for $50, so this will be stripped down, some head work done, new rods and pistons and hoping i can push a heap of boost into it. well as much as my kit can handle :p

he is also picking up a new drivers door and the 2 front 1/4 panels with no dents for me that i got for $5ea off ebay which will be resprayed when the bonnet boot lid and bumper gets done.

i have a exhaust place lines up who will do a dump-back exhaust in mandrel 3" (minus cat) for 600 or 1200 in stainless. for the extra power the stainless will give i dont think its worth double the price. the other option is twin 2.5" and possibly trying to do a dual exiting exhausts, one on each side but i havnt had a good look under the rear to see if its possible yet. (note fuel tank shape differs from falcon range due to extra length so i think its skinnier)

some more bad news today, my drycell battery i bought for $200 off a mate only a few months back dropped a cell... not too happy about that, but nothing i can do about that, they said they will do a optima deep cycle battery for $399 which should suit the boot install alot better but ill see how things go. might do some research first.

after the fitting snapped today i decided to throw the turbo kit on anyways with just a few nuts holding it in place as it will have to come back out again to fit the new welsh plug. but im glad i did as its keeping me motivated to keep going. but now im kind of liking the idea of keeping the vents as you can see the intake and turbo through them. i might respray both bonnets so i can swap as i like.







i have also painted up a AU throttle body in black as they dont have the rocker cover breather pipe its one less thing to block up.

so this is all for now. as soon as i get the net hooked up at the new place ill do another update. thanks for looking

I was looking at the pics if the welch plug/fitting before thinking it looked a little weak. A plug is pretty thin plus any possible shock damage to the join durin installation.

As an idea, maybe have a feel around inside the water channel (above the hole I think) and there should be a big enough area to drill and tap a hole through the block and screw the fitting in there.

I know for a fact that you can run Dual 2.5 to the diff. Mine joins after the diff to a single 3.0.

The only concern is the brake line, and Im looking at Teflon/stainless anyway. perhaps if you did Chev Pipes you could do it, however on the NC the Fuel Tank does come all the way over to the side

Nigel

thanks for the replies guys. there is always the possibility of shock damage. i did try and break if off before installation just to make sure and it felt solid. i do have a brasing kit so i might give it a go. others have pointed out taking the water feed from the thermostat housing wont work as it wont get pressure until the engine it hot. so im looking at a LPG water adaptor that my inlaws have sitting there from their old EF see if i can use that for a water feed as its before the thermostat

nicel, revengelane on boostedfalcon had dual 3: in his lane aswell as NCIILANE on here also has duel 3" so i too know they will definitely fit. but im told ill get better power from a single 3" then i will with dual 2.5"

twin 2.5 is better then single 3"

seems like ill have to look into it more. i know that doing maths a twin 2.5" will give me an overall size of about 4.5-5" but i dont know about the flow of things. i think ill jump under the lane and have a look. if i can do a dual exhaust i think ill go the twins. if not a single 3" will do for now (or what ever is cheapest lol)

where would they exit? at the bumper or behind the wheels?
nice build so far