hi all check out my dynoscore lol

the above was a contribution from the bloke who posts pics for me. Cheers Ash.

Far out, what a freaking awesome day this was.
Here's the results


and some photos. I'm spewing I didnt get to make a video I got distracted by the sound of my engine at 5000 RPM...



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I have just been reading through the Spec pages of my recently aquired original ford manual.

So I thought I'd post up some details.

A 3.9 MPFI has standard...

139 kW @ 4500
339 Nm @ 3500

the factory specs of Taxable Hp is 31.4...so that's 23 kW.

Without factoring wear and tear and engine age etc, which is an unknown guessable figure, could be 1 kW, could be 15...

That would figure to 116 kW at the wheels.

So mines pushing 119 @ 5200.
It's a pity the readout dosnt have RPM instead of Kph, too see what it was making now at 4500.

It would appear though...
Although I have only gained 3 kw, it is achieved at a higher rpm, so you could almost say I've lost power lower down, cos even with a peak of 119 and the steady rise it has at 4500, it would have been under 116, which would have been around the 4800-5000 mark.

It's definately a mind bender...

Removing the clutch fan, adding an exhaust and extractors, and a 3in mandrel bent pipe and a pod for intake, makes it produce similar-to-facory results, but higher up the rev range...

BBM then a cam is definately next....after a service and a new rear main seal...

Although...am I reading the curve wrong, and the RPM goes right to the end of the line, not the peak...making the peak of power actually more around the 4500 mark?

That would equate to a gain of 3 kW all up, keeping in mind that's not counting what was already lost through age/wear and tear, so for example it may have been producing 110 (or less) instead of 116, so all up I gained 9kW from what I've done...

Can't wait for the next set of mods and another run to see how much more I can make.

An off topic note....just watching an episode of overhaulin'...where they cut the top coil off the springs on a sweet falcon (looked like an XP) theyd just finished to make a "slight adjustment to ride height"

I guess chopping springs isn't an overly dodgy method...lol, if it's good enough for Chip...

Happy new year an all that.

First post here for the year.

Not too much new, rear tyres count? Lol.
I also got around to fixing my water temp gauge, the sender snapped I half as I was taking the old one out. The hole in the thermostat housing was pretty tight an the unthreaded end of the sender was jamming inside a bit, so I drilled a small amount out from the inside and it slipped in sweetly.

Drove to Alice springs for the holidays, so the car has just completed a 3000k trip and only needed half a litre top up for oil. It cruises nicely with the 5 speed and the standard fairlane diff ratio. I'll easily get 650+ to a tank, which is only around 70 litres I think.

An a final note. I Just finished replacing the pipe to pipe heater bypass hose. Have a look on your ea-ed under the intake manifold...yeah...that little bastardo right there..intake off job to replace if you don't have a Chinese man handy...

i cooked the motor in my LTD the other day and because it has LPG it has a chopped bypass pipe so i had to swap mine and had a leak from that hose on he new motor... we got both ends without removing the intake with the lpg gear still in place.. was a b**ch but we got it lol

Good job man! You must have small fingers haha.
I had no issues getting it off, and cleared enough to reach in, but just couldn't get the good grip to push the new pipe back on all the way. It was some pretty thick walled 9.5 mm hose so it was half a mil too tight too. It only took 2 hours of mucking around undoing (mostly) and redoing the intake. And 5 minutes to push the pipe on properly and do it up.
All sweet now and started like usual, so that was sweet.

Ill have to check your thread and see how your turboing is going..

i havnt done an update since i bought the LTD.. been lazy lol only things new is i have a 3" exhaust sitting at a mates place. got it for 200, brand new never used with a 1100 dollar receipt

Nice score. I've been thinking about getting a 3 inch tailpipe made up for mine after I put the cam in it.. I have a bolt on flange behind the muffler so swapping would be easy if it dosnt sound right.

Well, best part first, I now have a laptop with wireless internet! WooHoo!

No more typing on an iPhone. although this keyboard feels WEIRD!!!

Latest is that my pedal box is cracked and bending...

Since repairing the firewall I have adjusted the clutch cable tighter a few times a small amount after shifting was getting a little difficult, this would make shifting better again but only temporarily..

After the last adjustment a few weeks back I was thinking it was the clutch cable stretching, but a few days later I noticed the clutch pedal angled to the left a little, I jumped around for joy and did a little dance as the realization of my real problem sunk in.

I poked my head under, and saw where the clutch pedal passes the box, just above the plastic clutch sensors where the metal is grinding against the boxes frame, also a patch of metal that has lifted near the cracking area.

Over the past few days shifting has become a nightmare at times and the pedal is near 45 to the floorpan, so Ill be getting a welder over the weekend and Ill take a heap of pics and do a Doco on dash/pedal box removal...Good idea yeah?

Lol, Im not looking forward to it but it has to be done and i might as well get as much as i can out of it.

More on that to come..

So!
Got the welder sorted out for tomorrow, so I figured Id pull the box out and see what I can see...

PLEASE NOTE: I have done this once before, and so it wont be quite as comprehensive as it could be, there are probably a couple of things I missed as I skipped a few screws when reinstalling..

Tools required.
Philips screwdriver,
10,13 and 15 mm sockets and ratchet
2.5mm allen key
1x Attitude adjuster, just a regular one, no over kill... I use a claw hammer.

So to start...


This was how far my clutch pedal had bent.


First area is obviously the dash.. Im not gonna mark every single screw, but you all should have some screw hunting skills and know how to remove it all down to this...


Then the stereo..


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Last edited by Lowlane7 on Sun Feb 20, 2011 12:16 am, edited 1 time in total.

With that last picture, there are a heap of screws right in the back, I only had the 2 upper ones under the edge, and 2 in the back.

Next is the glove box,


and there are 3 screws up and under here


At this stage I pulled the seat and center console for a little more room


I missed a pic of the plastic bit around the hand brake, 2 screws and itll slide foward, also undo the nut holding the handbrake assembly to allow it to move

If you have all the screws out, it should come apart similar to this.


Im not 100% because this is one part I didnt put back on, but Im pretty sure there is a bracket under the stereo mounting piece. it was a pain in the ace to undo them both to allow the centre piece to come right out...

EDIT: there are 2 10mm bolts underneath either side of the A/C ducting, youll spot them wen the center console out..

There are now 2 brackets under the kick panels to undo, 10mm bolts, I undid the top one on the passenger side, but found the bracket on the driver side hooked up when pulling the dash away at a later stage so I undid the sideways one. Just undo the sideways ones on both sides..

Between the wire through the pic, to the left of the globe, youll see a black bolt head and a golden one. when your under there youll see better, but in this pic, I refer to the golden one as the "sideways one"

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Last edited by Lowlane7 on Sun Feb 20, 2011 8:46 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Removing the steering column lets the pedal box drop straight down and out,

So along with the wiring plugs, the steering knuckle gets undone, and take the bolt right out too...theres a groove in the steering rod that it locks into.


next is these 10mm screw bolts and the 2 13s under the dash near the ignition


And it should all pull out easily, I gave the knuckle a tap up with the hammer to loosen it a little.

Voila!


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As the photos show, theres 2 2.5mm allen head screws in the dash trim




This shows the trim off, but there is a couple of wires to what I thinks a climate control temp sensor,


Then undo the back row of screws, and the whole dash should be able to pull foward.


If it dosnt, go on another screw hunt, itll be one small screw somewhere holding it in place.

work the dash away slowly, keeping an eye on it all to make sure wiring dosnt get lost or somthing breaks as you shift it off the firewall.

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This is the key to how far you need to move the dash, behind the ducting and felt crap you will find these 3 nuts...


Undo them, and then these 4 brake booster nuts, and a random single golden one.
15mm for brake booster, 13 for the other one.



And basically, I reach under, hold the brake pedal rod and pull the box out enough to drop off the upper studs, and the rest gets juggled through the wiring and there should be heaps of room to get it out


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The dash dosnt need to come out quite as far as I have done, just enough for the upper plate to come off the studs and drop, fitting the box back under is a little tricky as you need to lift the dash at the same time, but if youve made it this far, thats gonna be no problem..




This was the damage done to mine...





So after some research, I may have to go rip an auto box out first thing tomorrow, but well see how that goes, what I can come up with.

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should change the dash pad to an un-cracked grey one