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| EFFUTURA4.05SP |
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Nice work Jarrod. How good do freshly machined blocks look! Are you just going gloss black on it?
Should be sweet when finnished mate. Cheers, Ryan.
_________________ 1996 EF Futura factory manual |
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| kiwief |
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Nice mate, did you paint the rocker yourself? Looks good.
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| EF_96_XR |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Nice work Jarrod. How good do freshly machined blocks look! Are you just going gloss black on it? Should be sweet when finnished mate. Cheers, Ryan. Thanks mate, yea just gloss black. A couple of my mates said to go blue but im not sure how that would look in the engine bay..
_________________ 96 EF XR6 Factory 5 sp, currently in the middle of building a new motor |
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| EF_96_XR |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Nice mate, did you paint the rocker yourself? Looks good. Nah i got it done down at the local smash repair joint lol, only cost me 80 bucks 
_________________ 96 EF XR6 Factory 5 sp, currently in the middle of building a new motor |
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| EF_96_XR |
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Timing cover ceramic coated
 Attachment: 402390_225703040855112_100002462546746_463259_1784614406_n.jpg
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_________________ 96 EF XR6 Factory 5 sp, currently in the middle of building a new motor |
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| EFFUTURA4.05SP |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Timing cover ceramic coated Attachment: 402390_225703040855112_100002462546746_463259_1784614406_n.jpg I started to grind down the ridges in the casting on mine before I realised they are probably there to give it strength  Not that you can really see it much. you can see the ridge missing on the bottom edge. Attachment: timing.jpg
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
_________________ 1996 EF Futura factory manual |
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| EF_96_XR |
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{USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: Timing cover ceramic coated Attachment: 402390_225703040855112_100002462546746_463259_1784614406_n.jpg I started to grind down the ridges in the casting on mine before I realised they are probably there to give it strength Not that you can really see it much. you can see the ridge missing on the bottom edge. Attachment: timing.jpg That would have looked pretty sweet if you did the whole thing
_________________ 96 EF XR6 Factory 5 sp, currently in the middle of building a new motor |
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| the sam |
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That ceramic button clutch will destroy your t5!
_________________ LOW, LOUD AND LUMPY |
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| bry40l |
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{USERNAME} wrote: That ceramic button clutch will destroy your t5! +1
_________________ BF XR6 |
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| EF_96_XR |
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{USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: That ceramic button clutch will destroy your t5! +1 mmm i didnt think that it would like it very much, if it blows up i might convert it to a 6 speed...
_________________ 96 EF XR6 Factory 5 sp, currently in the middle of building a new motor |
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| the sam |
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If you are thinking the 6-speed look for one out of a vt-vy ls1 commodore. Have a search on boostedfalcon for the thread.
They are alot cheaper (can pick up one for ~$1000 in good nick) and all you require are some parts from malwood to make it fit. I think one of the dudes on boostedfalcon said it cost him just over $2k all up for the conversion. Something to think about considering if its come out of a falcon its $2.5k+
_________________ LOW, LOUD AND LUMPY |
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| the sam |
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Heres a link to some reading for you.
{DESCRIPTION} "We also have just received some T56 to 4L bellhousings from QuickTime, which suit the LS1 T56. The particular T56 you need is from a 6L VZ. Part numbers TUET6000 or TUET6300. These have a shorter input shaft than the earlier GEN3 T56's. You can use your standard crossmember (needs redrilling for the mount), mount, change of shifter, spigot bearing with 15mm ID, clutch plate, ratio box for the speedo, slip yoke and tailshaft shortened, and hydraulic clutch pedal setup. I also beleive a spacer between the bellhousing and box will be required (which we also have) as the slave mounting seat is quite high on LS based T56's. If you have 3.45 diff gears, just use it as a 5 speed. The Australian LS based T56's should not be doing less than 2000rpm in the overdrive gears. To put it simply, it FU(Ks them!! The LS T56 rarely is broken. The main downfall in them is the choice of 5th/6th ratio, and the 5th/6th gear design on the mainshaft. Those issues can be eliminated with a ratio change to close ratio 5th/6th (same as the BA/BF Ford T56). "
_________________ LOW, LOUD AND LUMPY |
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| ebxr82nv |
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{USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: That ceramic button clutch will destroy your t5! +1 mmm i didnt think that it would like it very much, if it blows up i might convert it to a 6 speed... I've had a ceramic button in mine for 30000 km and the box is fine, mind you driving in traffic is a b**ch.
_________________ 9/98 AU1 XR6hp-about to retire from the road and be reborn on the race track. |
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| EFFUTURA4.05SP |
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{USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: That ceramic button clutch will destroy your t5! +1 mmm i didnt think that it would like it very much, if it blows up i might convert it to a 6 speed... I've had a ceramic button in mine for 30000 km and the box is fine, mind you driving in traffic is a b**ch. I have looked at this option myself in the past but never managed to get an opinion from someone who has had one. Is it just an "on/off" type of thing? I've heared that they don't like to be slipped at all, is this correct?
_________________ 1996 EF Futura factory manual |
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| the sam |
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I have a ceramic organic composite button type clutch and i have not broken my t5 just yet. But it is on its way out. I try to avoid hard shifting and riding the clutch. The issue with ceramic clutches is they dont have the slip that organic compound provides, which is required for smooth, slow speed driving and the preservation of small homosexual t5 gearboxes. Whether you believe it or not the weak link has to move somewhere. When you install a ceramic clutch with a t5, the t5 becomes the weakest link. In general cases, an organic clutch will be better suited for street vehicles anyway. I dont see the advantage in gaining 0.01 of a second in gearchanges in a car thats going to run a 14.xx anyway. You have to weigh up the cost of a new gearbox with the gain of slightly quicker gear changes, a car thats a b**ch to drive lightly when its cold, an amputated left leg due to rsi in traffic, the cost of replacing clutches more often (a button clutch will wear more quickly than a standard clutch) and the cost of ceramic clutches! Dont forget ceramics wont work how they are supposed to until they reach a high enough temperature. Why do you think race/drift/track cars use ceramic brakes/clutches? Exposure to high temps for a prolonged period of time.
Hope someone gets something out of that lol... 
_________________ LOW, LOUD AND LUMPY |
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