yeah multimeter on the + & - terminals.

with car not running battery should be close to 12.7 volts for 100% charge if i remember correctly

with car running, it should jump over 13.5 volts or your battery will get run down

Cheers mate

How much is your tune costing mate?

$1395, down from $1795.

Is that with a flash tuner?

This is some good stuff you've done. What percent is the under drive kit you got? Plus how much of a f***k around was it to install?
I should record my exhaust so we can get a comparison between the split and the twin

That $1395 gives me full 3 custom tunes. Obviously ones going to be full max power (for drag), other will be street power but driveable and the third would be economy. I keep the tune box after that.

20% underdriven 2dads. Was quite a pain actually...

In order on how to do it.
Jack up car and remove front tyres. Undo scrivets and 7mm retaining bolt in the wheel arches. Then undo 12 other 7mm bolts that hold the splash tray to the bodykit.
Take out the air snorkel and then the top grill area. Pull the front bumper off.
Unplug all lines feeding into the radiator (can clamp if you don't want to lose all fluids from their reseviors, like i did with my power steering...) Undo all retaining bolts holding in the radiator. Pull it out. Now you have room to play with the pulleys. Simply loosen the tensioner pulley, and rotate it clockwise too loosen the belt off so you can remove it. If you're replacing the idle and tension pulley, do so now. From there, you will need to crack the crank bolt. First time I did on the BA, it cracked first go without having to lock the harmonic balancer. This time no such luck. I didn't care too much about keeping this balancer, so I just shoved my jack bar until the groove on the balancer and then wedged the end under the frame of the car (just in front of where the radiator goes). This stops it from moving with the bolt, so it can crack. Once bolt is cracked, undo it until it's about 3 turns off. Then put jaw pulley puller on and remove balancer. Put on new balancer and bobs your uncle, tighten that s**t up to the point where if you go to undo the crank bolt, the balancer will rotate with it, don't want it coming undone. Then just put it all back in the opposite order. Be sure to refill your coolant before starting the car. This took me about 6 hours because I also did my headlight bulbs at the same time, and I couldn't for the life of me work out a way to stop the balancer from moving...

I'm just getting a tune done so max power all the time

You could have that, but it would chew fuel and be a bit of a pig to drive on the street. Because I'm keeping the tune box afterwards, it's good to have 3 tunes. Keep it on economy for most of the time until I go to the drags I guess

That's the x3 box?

Yeah, SCT XCAL3.

I was going to buy one but I was told its not worth it if you don't have a turbo I was told just to get my ecu custom tuned for $800 but that's full power all the time

Having the xcal unit just allows greater flexibility, and also makes it cheaper for the next time in a way... You can use it as much as you like, so if you plan on turbo'ing it later... Then it's not like it will run out before it happens...
Also, as I've been reading, mail order tunes... Given you find a good reliable tuner... Can drastically reduce the overheads for getting the most out of a minor change, in between a good custom tune...

Just depends what sorta coin you have to play with...

Really at the moment mate I'm getting hardly enough pay for just the bills but when I get a chance I really do want to get a flash tuner and get it custom tuned I was told with my growler and the full exhaust system I could be looking at 210-225 at the wheels

If you have a freak engine like old mate with the green XR6.... For exhaust, intake and underdrives with custom tune; I'd expect 190-195. But at the end of the day, it's no the end figure you worry about. It's how much they have squeezed out, so if you gain 20rwkw from tuning and still only make 180, that's better than say drive in with 180, and the tune gives you 185.

If you're going to do upgrades later on down the track, I'd suggest saving for a full tune now. Yeah it costs an extra $700 but it saves you $700 every time you need to go back as you don't have to get a new box. Also helps if you get a diff ratio upgrade, you won't need a re-tune. Just simply plug it in, change the ratio and bobs your uncle! Can also adjust shift firmness in the same manner.

Some people say custom tunes are fine, I on the other hand don't think so. Not every car is the same, so a tune that works for old mate might not work for you. That's the issue with generic tuning. Sure, when you get a custom tune they'll load up their generic tune to get a base line, then they'll tweak that.