Lol, don't tempt me!

Yeah, I might give the cam another go in the future when I have some more time to play with things. Was thinking the other day of going to Pick a Part and grabbing another cam to get another profile done in the meantime lol. Something a bit more aggressive than what I have now, but a bit more tame than the one I had done recently. Franklin Cam's had some nice grind's I looked at before I chose the Auckland Cam's one, so wouldn't mind seeing how they go. 'P14' was the name of the grind I was considering.

It's funny, Franklin Cam's have the Stage 6 cam, the RH15B - which is near on identical in spec's to the Auckland Cam's #268 I had done which is Stage 2

i guess auckland cam's don't like to f**k around, big steps.
i'd be putting those diff gears in, make a big improvement...but not cheap

Yeah man, even their smallest performance profile (GT sport, mild road, not even classed as a stage, lol) looks like it would be comparable to the Wade Cam's '977b' in terms of cam lift and duration.

That's the plan for this year, save up hard to get diff gears installed. I'm up for at least $1k easily there if I get a reco'd LSD thrown in at the same time so I'll be saving for a while

For some reason I think you're going to get lucky (as you usually do) and some mate of yours is going to pick up a mint wrecked Ghia or XR6 and will give you the LSD for like $100.

That'd make your day now wouldn't it hahaha

Lol, that would be mint if that were to happen. Funny you mention it though, I hopped on Trade Me and came across an auction today for a LSD, but it's a lot more than $100.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing ... =439117253

Not really what I want though, a 2nd hand one probably wouldn't last me too long at all

Well, plans of getting a dyno run before the end of this week/before going back to work next week were shattered today. Rang around a few places and everyone seems to be booked out for at least a week in advance

Seeing as I'm back to work next week that restricts me to getting it done on a Saturday if possible, and turns out Protune don't operate the dyno on Saturday's anymore and Auckland Performance Tuning aren't operating on Saturday's until February.

Looks like a may have to book a day off work to take it in for a run, or wait till February and take it over to APT.

Good thing is the car seems to be running fine with the current J3 tune, no signs of pinging/knocking and it'll be run on 98octane at all times to ensure that. If anything, it still seems to be running a little rich if the smell of the exhaust fumes are anything to go by so fingers crossed there may be a little extra to be had out of a fine tune.

i bought one of those diffs through them a few weeks back, buggers charged me more than that tho.
so far so good.

yea everyones either booked out or closed. thats the bugger about holidays, everyone else is on holiday to

Bring the car down to Wellington and we'll get a group booking on the dyno and do a deal with the owners to supply tuning solutions for these old cars (which means we should get some free tuning time if we advertise the service and get some people through...)

(keep it under your hat though. Don't tell everyone)



RE DIFFS AND PARTS..........


WHERE THE HELL ARE YOU GUYS WHEN I NEED YOU?

I've sold five of them for around $200 or less (four sedan, one wagon). I still have one (which was on Trade Me) as the guy was meant to ring before coming around and he didn't ring - just came around. I wasn't there (which is why he was meant to ring, f**k retard) and so I said I may as well keep it.

It is 96 Fairmont Ghia. Ghia is in best condition mechanically out of any EF I've seen (original without any work I can see at all - Original heater pipes, still fine... I cut through a air con pipe yesterday when removing pillar and got about two minutes worth of gas escaping for my error!)

Why oh why can't you guys have money when these auctions get listed. Everyone goes "I want an LSD" and then I list them for $166.66 + $76.66 shipping anywhere in NZ and no one buys them. So I relist them, and relist them, and relist them... And then the people who buy them don't even ring up before coming over so I get fed up and decide to keep them.

(Well, it's happened once...)

I so need to keep one as my pinion is leaking all it's oil. Seal and bearing probably gone due to having the bent driveshaft when the gearbox tailshaft was slapping up and down an inch...

So, this message is a waste of space then. Basically... I know a couple of people who read this will start saying things like "hey, but I bought that XR6 head off you" etc etc... But once again - Where are all these people that pay Advanced Ford and Holden and other parts dealer $600 for a head or $1000 for a motor? I struggled to sell XR6 heads for $266.66 and I even included the throttle, BBM, injectors, fuel rail, fuel reg - EVERYTHING between the block and the air intake piping....and whole motors are just a joke.


Just how much did you pay for your LSD diff Troy? I had two for sale on TradeMe November and December.... Both went for around $200.... I would have been really happy to get $300 including shipping.


The world is just damn odd. Stop the ride, I wanna get off.

haha usually i have bought the thing, then couple of weeks later you have one cheaper.
think i payed about $460 including shipping...next time i'll ask you first lol

i wish someone would start tuning these falcons with chips, can't be much different than an aftermarket ecu? just need the tuning s**t

I have some issues with over reving with a re-ground Wade 1673 and shims. The motor is, for all intents and purposes, an EF XR6 @200,000km rebuilt at 150,000 with mild head work consisting of a fairly meaty skim (planing head), smoothing out the top of the chamber, easing radius on intake and smoothing the ports (intake and outlet). Bottom end was not touched (unless adding a cam angle sensor and removing a dizzy is counted.....)

There is no rev limiter other than when the motor stops or sounds too sick to continue. This is a drawback for holding foot to floor skids...

The problems that are encountered with my motor are

Valve Bounce
But this looks cool as flames shoot out the exhuast
Oil Flow
After sustained hammering there is not enough oil getting through the top end. This could be oil pump issues, but since putting in shims to operate the reground cam the oil pressure sender is always telling me oil pressure is a little high. After thrashing it hard the oil pressure seems to top out and then drops away meaning you have to rev the engine a few times to get the oil going again. Maybe this is becuase the oil is being thrown around in the sump so much that the standard oil pickup starts sucking up foam or air? Maybe the shims prevent a percentage of oil getting through the top end efficiently? Either way, a rattle from top end after holding above 6,000rpm for thirty seconds is dodgy.

There was another issue, but it is escaping me now that I've spent so long trying to explain the oil thing.

I have sneaky suspicion the oil pump or pickup is to blame for a lot of the oil things.

But what I am saying is that your old block would most likely last more than fourty seconds or so above 6,000rpm dude. Admittedly mine could do with rings and could even be leaning towards a new head gasket too - But that's what you get for upping compression and then valve bouncing it for minutes on end.



How often do you really think your *stree / road* car is going to be sitting on 7,000? But yes... Agreed... bottom end rebuild is fun times.

Can I suggest starting with an AU bottom end? Slightly shorter pistons and longer rods, better balanced crank..... Whilst you're at it you could swap the whole E series K frame and suspension for the AU alloy cross member set up




And now Fiend leaves the computer and returns you to your normal programming content.

Swap you for a half decent T5

Lol, you would have missed out on Fiend's LSD on Trade Me like I did too then, went cheap as!!

What ratio LSD did you end up getting through Advanced Ford? 3.45?



Haha, Fiend, I probably would have bought that one you had on Trade Me last. Problem was I didn't have the money at the time, still don't

All good though, I'll be on the look out this year

If the bottom end slowly starts to die, I think I probably will go with an AU bottom end and just give it a freshen up before dropping it in, seems the best option

It kinda sucks that the e-series scene over here isn't near as big as it is over in Oz, makes a lot tuners reluctant to even bother with them. Best option would probably be grab a wideband kit and a data logger and do some DIY tuning. Takes a lot of knowledge to do it properly, but at least that way, you don't have to pay a tuner big $$ to have the tuned for you.

yea got a 3.45, having a lsd is a f**k load better! but my speedo is out as they sent me the wrong sensor. so i'm waiting for jaycar to get stock for the speedo corrector kit.

be good if i knew how to diy tune, would probly f**k it up lol

I was gonna go au, but couldn't be f**k finding someone to do the sump etc. so ended up with the hybrid. would be the way to go tho

Troy, I have a EF XR6 (3.45) speedo cog sitting around somewhere doing nothing. Back in chch on the 26th so if you want it let me know, or if you want any more parts I might let you kick through my parts cars if you make it worth my while pulling the bits off them.. I still have 3 ef's for parts including the xr6.

would be keen to put mine on a dyno to see what its doing, if its cheap enough. my mate may put his xg ute on too to get it running right with cam

May as well update while I'm, not that there's anything worth updating but whatever lol..

Haven't done much at all lately in terms of modding, just enjoying it really. Seems to be going pretty well, still hasn't been on a dyno yet, but I've been giving it heaps and put it under lots of load and no sign of pinging whatsoever which is great. Definitely seems to be a lot more peppy off the line than I remember and seems to be using less fuel as well. Lifters seem a bit noisy and don't seem to be quietening down at all so I think I'm definitely going to have to measure clearances and find some thicker shims to compensate.

Went out and bought a suction mount camera bracket today from Jaycar and wasted no time testing that out

LINK

Tried to do an incar video, but the camera batteries died before I could get decent footage. After a few decent 2nd-3rd gear pulls and then hard on the brakes, something decided it didn't want anymore abuse.. Went to pull up at the lights and the brake pedal almost sank straight to the floor! Lucky, I had more than enough time to pump the pedal a few times and regain a bit of pressure. Not sure what the exact issue is, but I'll wait for the car to cool down and then go have a look around. Probably air in the system, just have to find the source.

Suspension has been giving me a bit of grief lately.. Front end is probably a bit too low to be anywhere near practical at the moment lol. Front end scrapes coming out of the driveway and the exhaust scrapes on one of the speedbumps on my street. Having a house in between 2 speedbumps FTL!! It handles nicely though which is why I want the front to stay how it is. The rear is definitely going to be sorted out early this year though. It'll either be King Ultra's in the rear or a custom set of springs which will sit between Superlow and Ultralow height. As for shocks, will either get the Bilsteins re-valved with rates decreased a bit to make it a bit more street friendly or buy some Koni red or possibly even Monroe GT sport's depending on how things shape up pricewise at the time.