Hey Fiend.

Are you advocating for or against the Ferodos???

I think the early morning time of the post made your brain a little more confused than normal.

Please clarify.

Oh, and happy new year Kiwi Brothers!!!!!!!

Cheers
BenJ

I hear ya on that one mate. I've come to realize bendix is not the type of pad i like either, especially ultimates. I have bendix advance on the front right now and they go okay, but i think i may have warped the discs already . They arent too bad though, they bite okay, they don't make too much dust and they are pretty much noise free. My old man has ultimates up front on his EF XR and they make the most horrendous squeal ever, and they rims are basically gun metal grey from the dust. He's already gone through a set of rotors and the ones on there now have been machined so its a matter of time before they warp again. However they have excellent pad bite. Thanks for your input though buddy, its swaying me closer and closer to running Ferodo's from now on




I think he is advocating for the Ferodo's over the Bendix ones. But i'll let him clarify that when he's online again lol..

And just a quick one..

Happy New Year to all!!!! Wish you all the very best for 2010!!

hope you have a crap one haha just kidding

As it happens I am FOR the Frodos. They have nice hairy big feet and I like their little hobbit holes in the hills around state highway 6. The Bendix only lasted four months, left s**t all over my wheels too regularly and.. Boy, I WAS LUCKY I FOUND THAT XR6 SWAYBAR WAS FATTER THAN THE ORIGINAL... It was only when fitting the sway bar that I noticed my "brand new" pads were less than 0.5mm thick!

The Bendix did sqweeeeel from brand new, and the "tick tick tick" of them passing the slotted rotors was much less pronounced, but the "bite" is good... Trouble with that is that you can feel the slots in the rotors when you apply the pedal and you can just visualise the lathe effect these pads have on your poor expensive rotors... < cringe >

Well got the rotors fitted up today. Was getting a bit late and i was still pretty stuffed from last night so i gave it a rest, and just put everything back together with the old pads which still had heaps of meat left on them. I did manage to pick up a set of Ferodo Zero's for the rear so i'll put them in tomorrow when i clean up the calipers and give them a quick coat of black. Took the car for a quick run around the block to burn off the overspray and rust-preventing solution on the rotors and i was amazed at how much of a difference fresh rotors make - the old ones were very worn, had a huge lip on both of them so i wouldn't be surprised if they were under the 8.5mm thickness limit. Pedal feels a bit better now after chucking them on, i used to have a slightly soft pedal and had to push the pedal in further than i though was normal to bring the car to a halt, but that seems to be gone now and the rear brakes feel as though they are working a lot more smoothly, no more noises when braking anymore either so im happy lol..





Tommorrow, i'll swap out the old pads for the new ones and bed them in.. Will clean up the calipers while im at it and give them a quick paint and if i can be bothered, sand back the rust on the centre part of the hub and spray that too.. May also remove the rear bumper and pull out the towbar assembly - i've just about had it with walking into the darn thing every now and then, left me with a nice dent in my right shin on Christmas day while packing the boot and now have a good sized bruise to remind me for a few days

Also gave the Mont an oil change the other day, decided to give Valvoline 15w-40 Engine Armour a try since it was on special and seemed to be a relatively good oil going by some of the reviews i've seen. I usually use Shell Helix Plus 10w-40 but i feel it gets a little too thin when it warms up and sits very low on the oil pressure gauge. Besides the Shell oil is usually $40+ for 4 litres so i usually end up buying 2 of them, whereas the Valvoline oil is $35 or so for 5 litres - i still need to get 2 of those anyway as the donk takes 5.5 litres but you get more for your money...anyways lol... As soon as i fired it up after changing to the Valvoline oil, i must say the engine has never felt so smooth, feels like it starts very easily now and maintains good oil pressure from cold and when it warms up so im liking it so far.

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makes me wanna go buy some new brakes tho short on cash bugger
what clear coat did you use on rocker cover? thinking about doing mine, tho its f**k hot today

Ha, arent we all, thats the reason why i can't do the fronts at the same time

I just used Duplicolour Clear enamel as thats what i had laying around at the time, its not hi-temp or anything and seems to hold up fine. If you can find some hi-temp clear i'd much rather use that though

Alrightee, got busy today and finished off the rear brakes. Calipers have been sprayed satin black to match the rotors and also did the centre part of the hub, new Ferodo Zero pads installed, washed down the wheel wells and gave them a quick spray in satin black too. Looks much better




Also decided to rip the rear bumper out while i was at it and lose the towbar assembly. I don't do any towing, so i don't need it. Bloody heavy bugger too, so that will save me a bit of extra weight. Fitted my towbar block off cover which i picked up from Pick a Part a while back so now its like it was never there , I like the smooth look it has now



So tomorrow i'll whip out in the morning and bed the brakes in and give it a much deserved wash

Thought i'd take a couple of pics of the head while i had it out yesterday giving it a bit of observation as to what i will do with the guides and bosses. Will also come in handy when i look back at what it all used to look like. As stated a while back, i have only ported up to the guide bosses..

The chambers may get a little bit more work done to it i think, exhaust side could do with a bit more deshrouding and i could lay the chamber back a bit more as i have only really tickled it a wee bit so far.. Don't want to take too much out though as i want to bump up the CR a tad with the shaving and thinner gasket.. We'll see what happens


Exhaust




I tried to get a snap of how sharp the short radius on the exhaust side is.. Quite difficult to see but it is quite a sharp turn down onto the valves


Intake





And just a few general ones with what i've got done so far..






And my weapon of choice with it's accessories

Thanks mate!!

I had to take a few mm's of alloy out to gasket match the intake side, but its only the entry into the port that has been opened up, it then tapers into the port to try and maintain velocity. The exhaust hasn't been opened up much at all, maybe half a mm at the most lol, its basically just been ground and smoothed right down

I think i may go to Pick a Part and pick up a spare BBM, just the lower half, and do a bit of porting on that so i can swap it over when the head goes on. Last time i had a good look at one there was a few little steps that could be taken out just after the butterflies, as well as port matching it to the top half and gasket matching it to the head. All that with just a general tidy up wouldn't hurt, could always apply a bit of "streamlining" with the butterfly plates and shaft like what was done on the throttlebody if it's necessary. The top half of the BBM i wont worry about as i have ported the one on the car now. Took care of that when i polished the top half of the BBM so thats one less thing to worry about, all that will need to be done match port the bottom half to it.

I just hope when i finally get around to putting the head on i make a gain somewhere and not go backwards. Hell, if i lose power after swapping it over onto the EF, i've always got the EF head to play with

Ah, so much better when you have AIR tools, lucky bugger
Love your work matey, I wish I had the patience.

yea nice work so far...i was googling throttlebodys last night and your modified one came up, giving me to much ideas! i so need to get a compressor lol
might have to get a cheap head to play with not gonna touch the ticky at this time.

Thanks fella's

Yes, air tools do make life a hell of a lot easier, the downside is the constant noise my poor neighbours have to go through every time i fire up the compressor and get to work. Cop that!!

I really must get more busy on it though, i go at it for an hour or 2, most of which is making sure everything is matching which is the hardest part. As soon as the cylinder head shop opens again for the new year i'll be down there quick smart getting the guides removed, the sooner the better.


Cheer man

You lucky bugger, is that the Ticky head from Fiend?? I soo would of taken that from him if i had the cash lol, it was pretty muh the cheapest tickford head i have ever come across. Have a look on trade me for cheap heads mate, i got mine from there for $35 including a cam which is now reground and in the engine right now .

Hell i was on the trade me last night and came across a EF engine (head and block with a few other bolt on's i think for $160, if only i had the money

yea got the ticky from fiend was cheap as including bbm and other bits
yea i saw that motor pitty was in north island would of got it, was thinking about getting another motor to build over a period of time but dont wanna pay $400+ for a good one

hoildays getting boring.. i dont give a f**k about my neighbours coz its a car yard with a big garage so it dont matter lol

Received a nice score this morning..

All this for a hundy posted was quite good i reckon


So now i have 1 and 3/4 sets of chrome door handles spare . I'll save the side repeaters for when the car gets repainted whenever that may happen..

Started doing a bit more work on the head yesterday as i want to try and get it done so i can start sourcing all the parts for it. Made a start on blending the valve seats into the bowls and smoothing the short side turn on the exhaust side, only felt comfortable using my low powered dremel type grinder so i didnt get to take much off, but now im used to it, it's back to the air grinder with a little more force