Just got back from Protune - did about 8-9 runs and she got a whopping ~132rwkw down on the rollers LOL, sounds pretty pathetic but it was kind of where I was expecting it to be..

Considering the AFR's are pretty rich (actually very rich - around 10, 11 through-out the mid - upper revs) I'm pretty happy with that result. The operator said there's a lot more in it with a decent tune to lean the mixtures and add a few degrees of timing, so might get a custom tuned J3 soonish and take it back. Peak torque is around 3650rpm but the torque figure does seem suspiciously low at 278nm

Will get some scans of the dyno sheets and post them up later as well as a quick video.

thats not bad really for the mods you have done, torques pretty low tho.
i found something to do with boost on the j3 you might be intrested in
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I'd say a j3 should get you closer to the 150 mark. Do it!

Yeah the KW figure isn't too bad for a 230,000+km auto equipped car with just basic bolt on mods (and a leaky headgasket since Nov 2008 ). I'm not sure whether or not I should stick with the current cam for NA duties for now and try and get more out of it that way with the J3 or just stop pissing about and get the Wade 1543b done already + headwork and J3 tune and see how that goes. Can always do the current engine up NA for now and build another motor to suit boost i guess

The torque reading is very low, I'm not sure what's going on there but it was a shock to me - I know they are just figures but fk that was embarrassing to be honest lol. I know it has stack loads more torque now than when it was stock so I'm assuming the dyno reading seems a bit, or quite bit, out - other guys are getting well over 350nm with around 140-150kw. Then again, it could be right

Thanks for the link too mate . Spotted that over on boostedfalcon a few weeks back now - its an awesome development for the boosted guys, especially since it can be used to map boost instead of running the dodgy old FMU's and is a nice cheap alternative to aftermarket engine management setups. Might be looking at that option when I get around to running boost


Mate, it is definitely on the cards!! After the operator told me how rich it was running (and also seeing the big black mark that got put on the rear wall of the dyno cell from the exhaust ) I can't go without getting a j3 done to lean it out at least - obviously thats the reason why I'm getting s**t house fuel economy. 150rwkw would be a good figure for me in NA form I reckon, thats what I'm gunning for






http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X8-PaTI8zOk

I agree that its a good figure for an auto, it sounds like there is easily more in it too

man if that is what yours is putting out i rekon i would be lucky to be geting 80kw in mine lol.

Keep up the good work

Two things i noticed that may be your issue.

1 3650rpm for torque figure.
2 Extremely rich AFR in mid to high RPM

I would suggest that maybe your BBM is faulty. The RPM figure for max torque is about where the BBM switches over, and with the change in airflow from long to short runners you may find that this will fix some of your AFR issues.

Just food for thought.

Brett

Hey Brett,

Thanks for the suggestion mate!! Makes sense, might have to go have a play around with it soon and see if the BBM solenoid is switching over. Come to think of it, every dyno sheet I have seen of an i6 with BBM has a dip in the curve where the BBM switch over point is and this one doesn't. Cheers


Hope so mate, if it's something like what Brett has described above, then it might wake up a hell of lot when fixed


Hahaha, thanks mate

How much was that dyno day worth to you mate?

$115 inc . Got quite a few runs done too, I think about 8 or 9 in total, plus a few others where it would kick back to 3rd. I must say at full song and bouncing off the limiter, it does sound pretty good for a 6

Well, just had a quick look at the BBM solenoid, seems the actuator rod moves freely by hand but it was a bit too late at night to fire her up and give it a few good revs to see if it activates properly by vacuum - will check that tomorrow though, was too busy thrashing my uncle's SV6 rental

Removed the EL flex bend from the intake though, the bastard was a bit old and had a small split between the ribs, so it's got a couple of blue joiners thrown in now and looks much better. Just have to get a 180deg 3" pipe off the T/B to get rid of the rubber EL bend which is rubbing on the rocker cover..

On top of that, the passenger side front window reg just died - hope pick a part has something for me..

Hey KWIKXR i was just wondering where did you put the PCV valve pipe when you used the BA intake pipe? i noticed that it dosent look like its connected at all i circled the PVC Pipe connector in a red circle..

AU's have different setup

Hey Lukas, what he said ^^

When I had the BA pipe on the EF I just blocked off the PCV piece on the piping with a big as bolt and some sealant.

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While I'm here...

- Window reg has been replaced and all is good again
- Received my new subwoofer, its quite big


- Checked the BBM vacuum solenoid for the butterflies and it is switching over as per normal so that rules that out as being the cause of low torque and very rich mixtures. Could be a stuffed MAP sensor dumping excessive fuel so will check that and maybe put the spare one in and see if it makes any difference. Will also check the coolant temp sensor and double check all the vac lines too.

Went down to the local tube bending joint and picked up some 3" ally mandrel bends to mock up the intake piping. Will cut them up and sort out something a little better than what I currently have; the EL rubber elbow off the T/B is rubbing on the rocker cover and has worked its way through the paint . Was gonna get stainless but the price would have been a bit more than I would have liked to have spent, plus ally will be a little more easier for me to work with.. While I was there I ended up scoring a couple of offcut 4" mandrel bends and a straight 4" piece in stainless steel for free so thats the turbo intake sorted for when that eventually happens

Cool, nice looking sub Ooooof! its Huge!

The sub looks chunky. Are you going to resume work on the boot install?

I've decided to do one for the Fairlane. False floor and walls (aside from behind the tails) and a wall across the ridge below the parcel shelf, with the sub and amp mounted on it and the sub box built behind. Its a waste of some boot space, but its huge to start with anyway.

I'll be keeping a keen eye on yours, I've never worked with wood before.