Thanks for the reponse Geoff.

Ah, I forgot to add 'supercharger fitted' pictures in my post above.
Here they are. You can see the A/C line in the second pic. I was thinking of bending the line from the compressor towards where the airbox would be and run the A/C line over the top of the shock tower.



I'm going to organise a trip to the Dyno soon to get it all checked out. In the mean time I will be gentle on it. Thanks for the warning there.

I'd be super happy to see 220rwkw.

I've got a boost gauge for it, just need to fit it. Like I mentioned, a job for tonight most likely.

Being that my car is a Fairmont Ghia and fitted with the XR6 motor, should I go to a '7' range plug seeing that the std plug for an EL XR6 is a '6'? (ZGR6B-11)
The dizzy cap and rotor button are new.

At the moment I'm just going to get this running safely, then worry about further upgrades later. Cam, valve springs, exhaust, etc.

Changing a motor is a pain in the a*** enough, adding the complexity and snug fit of the charger I think I'll pass on replacing stock motors as they blow. haha.

Last edited by MAD on Tue Jul 14, 2015 1:34 pm, edited 1 time in total.

I've got the boost gauge hooked up now and this morning's trip to work showed that it is very easy to keep the gauge on the vaccum side. So that's what I'll do until I get a better fuel pump.

At idle the gauge shows -20 inHg and that dips to around -25 inHg during gear changes.
What's normal for a stock engine?

yes its normal and indicates no vacume leaks

what boost is the supercharger running?

That's good to know that I got managed to get everythig to seal properly.
I was a little worried I might have buggered up because I'm struggling to get it to idle below 1000 rpm.
I need to double check a couple of things though (ISC, TPS).

I dont know what boost it is running.

Well, I checked out the TPS and ISC just now, and I found the ISC is buggered and jamming open causing the high revving. So off to the wreckers for a replacement.

And the TPS, well, it's totally stuffed. It moves, but it doesn't register any voltage changes, and yes I made certain I was measuring the right wires. Good thing I have a spare, but I lent it to a friend just a couple of nights ago, so I wont be able to anything about that for a few more days. (Side note: I'm surprised at how well the car has been behaving without a functioning TPS.)

It looks like it might be hard to get the TPS to adjust correctly, the screw holes are out by about 90 degrees. Any suggestions for this? Are there other TPS's that work in the same voltage range as the EL? Something I can pilfer from the wreckers?

from memory we used a v8 tps sensor from a eb falcon ?? i cant be sure but compare the current one to be sure

Thanks Geoff, I'll check that out.
The one that came with the kit when I bought it is an I6 TPS from an EF.
It doesn't look like it will work without quite a few mods. I hope the V8 one will work better.
Does the V8 TPS have a different plug to the I6?

yep, different plugs.

Thanks, I'll make sure I remember to cut plug off as well at the wreckers.

Yesterday as I pulled in to my driveway, something happened and the engine started idling at 2000 rpm. I thought it was the throttle getting stuck again but it wasn't this time. The gasket between the supercharger and the adaptor plate sucked in between the bolts. A big leak!
Luckily for me though I had just returned home from Elwood, a 45 min trip. And I made a small appearance at the AFF Narre Warren meet Friday night too. That could have happened at any point on any of those trips. I guess someone must be sort of looking out for me.

So off the supercharger came. This time though I undid the passenger side engine mount and jacked the motor up a bit to get some more clearance to the shock tower. It worked great. (I also took this opportunity to bend the A/C pipe from the compressor a little to change the path over the shock tower to remove any harsh bends.)

I believe the gasket failed because the surfaces were painted, the ultra blue was stuck to the paint but the paint wasn't stuck to the aluminium. So all these surfaces were sanded back for a better surface.

The rubber gaskets, that came with it, had also started to break up and perish. I don't know what has caused it but I don't like it, so I replaced the gaskets with home made paper ones. Much better. Added benefit of this is that there is now another 6mm or so clearance to the shock tower.

Here's a pic of the gasket to show you. The surface that was breaking up was open to the air chamber. (eg. not squashed between the steel surfaces.)

I tore that big chunk off, but it didn't take much effort.



I also got my spare TPS back but it seems that there will not be enough room to adjust it properly even with modifying the holes.

These pics show the alignment of the tab on the butterfly shaft to operate the TPS.
Standard T/B _________ Twin T/B


Does anyone have a pic of an E-series V8 T/B with the TPS off, like my pictures above?

That's it for any news relating to this, but here's a couple of pics with the charger back on again.

The new gaskets are holding up so far. It's only early days and they havent seen boost yet, but I'm confident they'll be fine.


I took a trip to the wreckers on Saturday looking for an EB V8 TPS, but do you think they ad any V8's on the lot. As I was looking around I came across an EA CFI and noted that the TPS looked very similar to the photos I had seen of the V8 TPS. It looked like the nuetral location of the TPS blade was perpendicular to the screws, just like it is for the mustang T/B, so I thought I'd take a chance and see if it worked.

I still needed to elongate the mounting holes, and widen the spacing too as they didn't line up with the screw holes on the Mustang T/B. I wired it up and the fisrt test was to see if I could get 0.7V with closed throttle. Bingo! on to a winner. Then I checked WOT voltage and got 4.56V, another winner.
I adjusted everything, checked that the car idled, and took it for a lap round the block.

Result: Much better!! Now it drives 100% like a stocker, when gentle. No more stuttering just off idle, just smooth sailing.


I still need to get another ISC but it's surviving at the moment only ocassionaly stuttering at idle with the A/C when cold. Fuel usage has changed very little, but this week will be the real test with a properly functioning TPS, I expect a bit of an improvement over what I've seen so far.


I lucked out on an 044, surge tank, adjustable FPR and fuel pressure gauge on ebay because I didn't have cash available and they wouldn't accept paypal. damn!


I'm still working out what path to take from here.
Do I just upgrade the pump and run with the 12:1 fuel reg for now, or do I be gentle for a while longer and get injectors at the same time.
From what I've read, I'd definitely need a Bosch 023 as a minimum for use with the 12:1 due to the high fuel pressures, but if I did injectors and did away with the 12:1 reg, then I could use a walbro GSS342, which is much cheaper than the 023 and would pay for a most, if not all, of the injectors that I need.

With upgraded fuel pump and injectors, is it a matter of ditching the 12:1 and getting a J3 tune, or do I have to run a different fuel pressure regulator? I have two factory regs to choose from, a 250kPa and a 275kPa.

Use an AU fuel rail with a B series XR6 Turbo fuel reg. B series reg will not fit a E series rail

I'm not sure I can fit a different fuel rail as this one is custom made from an ED (I think) fuel rail.
The EL fuel rail has very different mounting points compared to the one with this kit, definitely not interchangeable.

How do the BA regs attach?

Different again

Well, this weekend proved eventful. Not fun but eventful.

I was testing the current ISC to see how it was, or wasn't, working.
When I popped the bonnet I could smell a faint smell of fuel. The smell came from the rear of the fuel rail, so I checked all the hose clamps, thinking they would be the first place to leak, but they were all dry.
I eventually found some fuel residue and located the leak on the fuel rail. It's coming from the rear of the fuel rail, I'm not sure if it's the end cap, or if it's from the relocation of the FPR.
I started the car to make sure it was coming from there, but nothing was coming out, so I disconnected the vac hose to the stock FPR and then the fuel started flowing. Not pouring out, but enough to be bad. Any is bad though.

So being that the fuel rail is a customised EB/D rail, and it can't come off without taking the charger off, that's what happened. The car was running again in N/A form in approx 2.5 hrs.
And that's how it will stay until I sort this leak.

Sucks, but this is the better option compared to the charred remains of a nice Fairmont Ghia.

Maybe I'll end up with a billet rail out of this


At least now I know how quickly I can revert to stock to get a defect cleared if it ever happens.