Im curious on how they look , as in are they a "finned" type hose

Or a auxiliary type "trans cooler style" ?

I had a EF series 2 i believe now 96 model , and i put a huge a** davies craig trans cooler to band aid a slipping trans when it got warm , and i don't believe there was any oil cooler for the p.s system

yesterday i got my infared heat gun ( i use it to see if a cylinder isn't firing hah) and the p.s fluid got to 55C at idle for 20 mins but still even turning it in car parks would raise the temperature i bet

the one on my ed is a short tube and fin cooler.

Exactly what I meant

hmm something i should look for at the wreckers then. even if i just use one from a ed

could be a optional thing, but its something you dont look for really. unless you need one

yeah. tell me about it. it was basically the last straw too that day.
the pump jams and when the force of the belt tried to force it it broke the pulley and the belt..

trust me it sucked having it towed and not being able to repair it for a week

door trims are - DC 2 LTD,
out of my 93 ltd i'm using for parts and v8 conversion

dam stupid pumps , Have you got a plan of attack on flushing out the lines and rack yet ?


Also when you fitted power windows did you need to change centre console ? or can you "retro" fit the switch in with some creativity the one on the centre console ?

hmm now i know what to look for thanks heaps.

but on another note.. it runs again.
got another p\s pump from the wreckers. and got lucky..
near new pump on a nl fairlane that was well looked after till the drivers door met a tree.
even has a steel pulley, and the fluid in it was nice and fresh still.
and for $60 with a 3 month warranty. i'm winning
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opted not to fit a new one later. as i am planning on fitting the wheezor it will be a pointless purchase

odd thing too sill using the eb p\s line
as once opon a time i was told only ef onwards hoses fit. it was like that on the old pump too
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but on the clutch.. or whats left of it
it was slipping badly. and wasnt a very nice smell to be greeted with whilst pulling everything out
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those heat marks werent there 2 thousand k's ago.. and it has been feeling rather average.

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this explains alot of the noise lol

so still fitted, you wont like it.
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pressure plate aint happy

as there is no difference in the fingers that arent even when removed too
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oh this only confirmed my hate for excedy.. this plate is about 50 thousand k's old.. wont be using another any time soon.
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oh and the damper springs are loose and rattling, so its a bit f**k

Last edited by 89S-PACK on Sat Jun 01, 2013 2:27 pm, edited 1 time in total.

i just let the lines drain whilst doing the clutch.. gravity feed ftw.

yes. i just fitted a fairmont centre console that had the hole for electric windows.
couldnt be a*** making them fit into something else.

rest of the pictures..

new clutch fitted on the au flywheel
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feels so light and effortless to use now. and seems to grip well
just the fun racking up the 1000k's now

but something odd. i didnt like how spongy the damper was a few years back so my damper is pinned. just means when i drop the clutch there is no give in the cable anymore

the part i'm speaking of. it shouldnt have a nyloc nut and bolt
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dont have a pic of a standard one atm though.

other than that, do the remainder of the coolant hoses and swap the lpg converter for one that isnt leaking wax past the diaphram.
i've been told by a few lpg fitters its fine.. but i think different.

oh and soon fit the lsd out of the ltd in this as the single pegger is starting to get noisy

so you put the bolt in? ... if the "damper" was feelin 'spongy' why not replace with a new one? or make sure it wasn't ya firewall/clutch mounting pin?

Mad2
yes.. drilled a hole directly through the middle as there are 2 holes in the casing that lined up well enough.

in the original car, (ea s pack) so back in 2003- 2004 (roughly 9 years ago)
- it had a new clutch, (pbr H\D, 3 bolt) then was replaced 2 years later with a valeo ed xr6 H\D 6 bolt clutch
- reinforced pedal box,. yet to still bend it, or crack it
- new clutch cable and mounting hardware to pedal.
- clutch fork was also inspected for cracks\bent. later replaced with a new unit with the valeo clutch
- firewall was braced with a bolt in replacement. 3mm plate (both sides of firewall) with a angled tube mig welded in. ea had cracked the firewall badly. it was fixed before being driven.

all of the list above was done within the first 3-4 months of having the car registered.

it still felt like crap. the original damper broke.
fitted a new one, 6 months later it was going weird. fitted another new damper and it did it again in a short time frame.
keep in mind the gearbox came out each time to inspect to see what was causing it.

got sick of the issue, so i pinned it.
Eclipse Ford (ballarat) had no idea why it was doing it either
i was buying the dampers from ford as a genuine unit too

i used to give the ea on the rare occasion a bit of spirited driving.
but being my daily and i lived out of town. it was not uncommon for me to be doing 600 - to 800 k's a week at that stage.

a unmodified damper was put back in for a short time. but i grew to like the way it was and preferred it. so it got refitted.

with an x i had to reinforce the firewall but i only did the single plate outside but panel beated the pedal arera before welding [grinding/smoothing] & fitting xtra plate. pain getting dash out. did you have any problems with the clutch cable breaking?? & why was the clutch fork replaced? bent/worn? also was there any reasons why ya went double plate reinforcing?
wagoon i have here will have the firewall reinforced when i replace the dash [stuffed/cracked] as its currently unbroken [auto]

never have broken a clutch cable actually, been lucky there so far.
clutch fork was replaced to rule out it being at fault and was worn at the pivot end as it had done close to 300thousand k's

found it easier to double plate the reinforcing. could just use the air chisel to remove the old mount. drill 3 holes. and fit.
also the rear plate served a purpose to stop pulling the bolts through. and one person needed to fit it. as the bolts are welded to the plate
and it could be removed if needed. as at the time i couldnt be bothered pulling the dash off and the brake booster out to weld it in

when i'm next at the olds i'll take a picture as its currently not fitted, as my eb used to be auto 12 months ago. i'm waiting till i break the firewall
and the eb ghia survived for the 2 years it was manual before it was parted out after having a accident in it.

so ya welded the clutch/brake assembly in car? first time x's went the mechanic did it in car ... then she was TOLD to stop riding clutch at lights etc ... still broke tho

may this time put a plate on the inside so car looks 'normal' as i think i used either screws or pop rivets to hold it on the outside of the firewall

i'm actually lucky ... ..... coz i can use the ECU from the other EA wagoon in place of the EB unit as they both GLi's & EB will become a 5sp. not fussed about the pics

pedal box was removed to weld as i had to fit a new pedal box as it wasnt viable to rescue the original.
i got a new pin from ford. and had it tig welded in with a thick backing plate thats welded the whole way around.

lol.. i don't ride mine either. i use the handbrake at lights. its funny to see how many people freak out when they don't see the brake lights staying on.

wtf.. thats just nasty. and no wonder it broke., as you cant really get in there properly to get the cable on, let alone a welder.

might be a good idea as mine didnt budge at all the way i did mine. but i didnt care what mine looked like as i'm more for function over looks in that regard.

yeah? nice score mate.
i'm using a pre smartlock ecu in mine with no issues at all too.
but my manual eb ghia worked faultlessly with a ecu out of a manual falcon.. iirc was a gl or s-pack

no worries.. i should get some anyways to show others my way of repairing a bad crack. as dad did the welding.