My brakes do similar things in the ed... I've tried 3 boosters and am leaning towards a problem with the near new aftermarket master cylinder... So I'm going to get a pbr one when I can afford it...

Cheers,
Tim

That's interesting.. I couldn't see how lack of power assistance could be caused by the master cylinder since the brakes still work.. just without any power assistance,, since I can still stop the car.. it just takes both feet and a hellofalot of force... the master cylinder must be working.. but if not, I'll put a BF one on that as well. It's annoying because a couple of times I've almost had minor bingles because the car doesn't' stop in the usual braking distance when it's only your foot doing all the stopping.

I just spent 1500 bucks! Picked up a T-56 6 speed manual from a BF XR6T, the complete tail shaft with perfect center bearing, and a rear engine mount from the same car. Box has no slop on either input or output shafts and seems tidy as. Already have the pedal box so all I need now is a clutch, a thrust bearing, spigot bearing and flywheel as well as some good oil.. Think thats all I need anyway.

I have a flywheel from a BA T5 box, but don't know if its any good for a T56, or even if its heavier or lighter than a XR6T flywheel. If anyone else knows I'd love to hear.

Oh also have some PaceMaker 4499 extractors for an e series and some rear lovels SL springs to sell. Must put a 4sale post up when I get to a PC.

Here is a photo of my new toy.

Very nice dude, did you get the BF rotors working right? They are pretty good for factory fitted brakes, I can say they have brought white lightning* up quick a few times!

At what point will you be able to dyno this thang and see what sort of ponies are emitted from the back end?

*new nickname for the winter white xr6 turbo

The brakes seem ok.. definite improvement on before. The BF booster seems to have fixed things nicely.

The next step for me, is to get a decent clutch and the other bits I need.. and convert the car to manual.. but at the same time, pull the dash out, remove the dash and engine looms etc and swap the car to BF2 ghia wiring (side looms are already done), along with the looms, I have to change the ABS module and front brake lines and stuff too. Hopefully that will gain me the DSC... (never owned a car with Dynamic Stability Control, and I want to.

Also got a mate who teaches TIG welding and owes me a favour.. so he's going to weld a new inlet to the water to air intercooler so I can put that on the car.. that should more than halve the amount of pipework internal volume and almost completely eliminate lag. Been waiting for that one for ages now. I got the angle grinder out last week and cut off the factory subaru tiny inlet pipe ready for a 3 inch job to be welded on in it's place.

when when the car is fully BF2 ghia electrically, and my tune is replicated on the BF PCM currently sitting in my shed.. I'll take for a dyno run and see what I have. I'm also planning to book the local RAC track for 3 hours of thrashing... very excited about that.

oh, I have a typhoon front bar waiting patiently in the shed to go on also. always lots to do. .

One of the things I was missing from my T56 conversion was the centre console face and boot for a manual.. and a decent gear knob.

I got given a center console face plate from a T5 manual BA and also the gearknob from same.. the boot was ratty with holes.. the knob looked good, but was a 5speed so no good.

My 6 speed knob was missing the leather.. and although the diametre of the two knobs is not even close, I was able to streatch the leather from the T5 knob onto the much fatter T56 knob... I also had a brand new boot that I bought from autopro clearance for 14 bucks.. It went on nicely.

Total cost, 14 dollars:


In an effort to improve my idle, I installed a catch can too:


Also got a late model BF entire throttle body with TPS etc all in one piece and swapped it straight in. (after making sure it was spotlessly clean) didn't help with low idle either. (neither did a new PCV valve and looking for leaks that don't exist) So the bad idle isn't a leaking manifold, or a dodgy TPS, or a dirty TB..... suspecting my cheapie coil packs maybe.. or too small a plug gap.... doing my head in TBH.

While it was raining, I pulled out my sunvisor and started putting a 800x480 screen into it.

OK,

Finished my sunvisor 7 inch 800x480 screen install.



Came out pretty well I think.. was hard though as the sunvisor is hard plastic and it's not completely hollow, it's joined by lots of internal connectors.. getting the cable though to the hinge was fun too.



If it looks crocked a bit, it's because it is.. I wanted it as straight as possible when in position and this was the best I could do to achieve that. it looks great in the car. (won't be for use when driving.. just for when I want to run Binary Editor as the middle screen is much lower res. (for now, but working on that too)

also, I'm working out the best place to put my water to air intercooler..

Turns out it won't fit the way I wanted it to... not efficiently anyway.

Looks like I need to move or replace the expansion tank as I need the space.. No idea where to put it though.. any thoughts?



If I can change the turbo housing so that the turbo output is pointed upwards, it can go straight into the water to air input (what was the output when it was in a subaru) and a new port welded onto the back will output straight into the intake. So the pressurized pipework will be massively shorter and hopefully result in a near no lag at all situation. (keep in mind that I also have injected liquid gas to cool the charge as well and that does an awesome job all by itself.)

From the top.. one of the mounting points even matches up with the fuse box mount point...


This last one shows how the pipe will be tigged so that it curves over to the intake... what do you guys think? I tried lots of different scenario's and this is the one that causes the least amount of issues and has the best flow path.. (I'll be seriously heat shrouding the whole bottom of it though.)




Oh, another update, Thanks to PhilMeUp for pointing them out to me.. I'm about to upgrade my brand new BF turbo brakes again... to PBR C5/C6 calipers and 325mm x 32mm disks. (not that much bigger than the BF turbo brakes, but 4mm thicker, 3mm bigger and much better calipers.)

money is flowing out of me now.. oh well, everyone needs a hobby right?

Story of my life... Little is progressing due to a planned wedding and house renovations myself...

I am going to try retain the original LCD for my turbo now and increase the angle on the bottom screen to get rid of the polarisation problems I'm having... Don't want to end up with too many circuit boards down there... The E-ink looks too complicated to get working... If I still fail I'll hit your mate up for the mid series ICC if he still has it when I finally get around to progressing more...

See what eventuates anyway... The low res screen is fine for my climate...

Cheers,
Tim

yep, I am going to proceed with my testing when my bits arrive. The boards I have bought are tiny.. couple of inches square, so the next time I take my ICC apart, I want to add RCA outputs, i want to add video out.. so I can hook external screens up.. (and potentially change the inbuilt one for a 7 inch, hi res, widescreen, touchscreen unit) once we know for sure what that pinout really is and how it works, we can think of the next steps to progress. If I can get a ereader screen cheap, I will give it a go too.

Oh, I also picked up an FG XR cluster for 30 bucks the other day.. it's waiting at a mates house..

going to see how hard it is to get it working in my BA. I'm guessing it won't be possible with the BA PCM, but it might be once I've got the BFII PCM in there. need to find pin outs I guess, even if it's not directly compatible, I might be able to make an adaptor of sorts to "translate" for the FG unit.

Keen to see if this is possible and how well it physically mounts...

Cheers,
Tim

I wasn't planning to use the FG housing.. I was going to pull the guts out of the BA housing and swap the internals over. The outer housing looks like it's pretty close in design.



Initially I only wanted the guage faces for my BA/BF cluster.. but now I want to see that middle screen fired up.

My BA gets it's speed sense from somewhere different to the normal BA's.. that is why the first time I got a custom tune.. my speed wasn't working and I kept getting limp home mode.. had to get the tune modded to change the pick up point.
First thing I will do is plug the cluster in and do a full PATS reset to see if it makes any difference.

Apparently the tacho and temp gauges work straight away.. but the speedo and fuel guage don't.. that isn't that big of a deal though I think.. I have an electronics tech with me at work that can help figure something out if I can't as he has been playing with ODB2/CAN bus stuff for ages on his Mondeo Turbo.


You have to admit.. that's a pretty nice looking cluster (once the screen is on):

YAY.. BA GT brakes FTW!.

Ok, BA GT brakes at the front, SY Territory brakes at the rear, (because Territories have much better back brakes than BA, GT or not.)



I picked up the bits and the disks are pretty much brand new, no lips at all. sat one on the BF turbo rotors which are new and there was no daylight between.. so pretty straight.. even the pads were brand new bendix and were still in the calipers.. so I just cleaned them up and put them on the car after painting the centres black.

Perfect.. so now I have BA GT C6 calipers and 325mm 32mm wide disks.. with braided lines.


The most annoying part of the whole thing is that I'd only just put the brand new BF turbo RDA dimpled and slotted rotors and caliper brackets on.. and I just pulled it all off again. (gonna put them on gumtree I think.. see if I can get some of my money back)

Brakes definitely feel stronger.. very impressed. The C6 caliper is much more serious looking than the factory BA unit too.

Most interestingly though, the disks are 1 inch closer to the front face of the mag than the BF turbo disks were.. meaning that the calipers are just behind the rim face.. much more visable than the BF turbo jobs and presumably will get more air this way.



Also picked up a Xtreme lightened flywheel and pressure plate, and a button clutch. got them for a really good price. Told it should handle the engines output fine... very excited...

Someone told me I'd need to drill holes to get the drive shaft center mount to bolt up when using a BF turbo tailshaft in a BA. Can anyone verify?

Lastly, can anyone verify if this MainLube oil is the best bet for my T56? It's very expensive.



regards

Frank

VCM just arrived.. excellent.. now I can start playing with the FG cluster to see if I can get it working.

I am getting an FG BEM too, as I've heard they are needed for the FG cluster.. will know soon enough I guess. I dont' see why it'd be needed as the FG cluster just seems to show the same info in a different format, it doesnt' actually seem to have any "extra" info that would require an external controller.

new toys!:

my new eXtreme light aftermarket flywheel and clutch just arrived.

$500 bucks.. nearly new. (crosshatching still on the face surfaces)



flywheel is much lighter than the T5 flywheel in the shed. This should help my throttle response and the clutch is apparently good for about 400rwkw so I should be ok.

Now all I have to get is 10 litres of that MainLube T56 oil.. will cost almost as much as the bloody clutch did.. and I guess I'll grab one of those neodynium magnet drain plugs too while I'm at it to preserve the box.