As a side issue to your ignition barrel repair some way back, the Au wont lock the doors if the key isn't removed... Took me some head scratching when I was testing my dash loom on the bench before fitting into my ED... Couldn't work out why it wouldn't lock, removed the key and hey presto...

How are you programming keys? And you are doing it on BA electrics? I think BF onwards required secure access to Ford's technician website with in and out codes to initiate the key learning process... I didn't think AU/BA keys could be programmed without expensive tools...

Cheers,
Tim

Just fully reading your thread... Or mostly anyway...

I'm hopefully picking up a BF MkII XR6T this weekend if it is good as the photos say...

I've heard rumours about an oil filter in the turbo line from factory... Apparently blocks up and seizes the turbo? You seem fairly turbo savvy, can you enlighten me on it and where it is? Is having the in line one like yours (way back on your first page) any better?

Cheers,
Tim

That is interesting about the AU.. I've never tried to lock the BA with the key in the ignition using the remote.. there is a lock button on my ICC so I just hit that. I'll try the remote today. (I just noticed in the FMP options screen below is an option called "Master door trigger disable" that might be related.. I'll have to try it and see what it does next time I fire up FMP.

As for Programming keys and PATS resets.. I do have some expensive tools (expensive for me anyway) and this works on BA/BF and probably FG too. (along with hundreds of non Australian fords too as it's from Ford international not Australia.)

I used to have an old VCM1 and a copy of Fords IDS program.. that could do just about everything ford could do, just not from the diagnostic perspective as you need a VCM2 and another module to get full test/diagnostics.
Later on, I got hold of a drewtech mongoose cable.. My one is a JLR not a ford.. but the JLR supports everything the full ford one does and some extra stuff so that isn't an issue.
JLR mongoose: {DESCRIPTION}
Ford Mongoose: {DESCRIPTION}

I got mine second hand so the damage wasn't too bad.

The Mongoose is a J2534 cable and as a result it allows me to use the Ford program called "Ford Module Programming" or FMP. That program is subscription based but a 3 day pass costs about 27 bucks.. so it's not too bad. That can do about 90 percent of things in the IDS software... and it updates too. so if they released new firmware for the BA/BF FMP would allow me to install it.. (though since my tune isn't standard, that isn't really an option for me anymore, but I've updated a mates firmware for him without issue.)

This image here is one of the option screens in FMP so you can see other things you can change with it.. bigger wheels, (speedo correction) various lights and police/taxi modes etc..

Last edited by frankieh on Wed May 14, 2014 11:48 am, edited 2 times in total.

The oil feed for the turbo on a standard BA/BF is a metal pipe that runs from the oil pressure sender pickup roughly under the middle of the intake manifold, around the front of the engine and to the top of the turbo. The filter you are referring to is behind the oil pressure sensor. That section is different from a non turbo in that it is bigger as the turbo oil feed and filter are in there.

I've bought a braided line with an easier accessed filter for mine, but I've got to buy some fittings to make it fit before I can use it. The reason I got it was just to make the filter easier to clean/replace.. the factory one will skin your knuckles and make you swear like a trooper trying to change it.. it's a pig.. I've heard some people just remove it but my theory is that if it blocks up then clearly there is some stuff going through there that you don't want in the turbo.

This software thing is interesting... Thanks for the info... Old man works for Ford so I'm familiar with the IDS and VCM and the VMM which is the one you're referring to which gives instantaneous values for sensors and the like... I have a handheld Autel disagnostic scanner which does everything except program keys and I wasn't buying the thousand dollar unit just to do the occasion key...

So I found this

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/251235577924 ... 1423.l2649

It has the workshop manual exploded view of it... Appears that the filter holds the steel pipe to the block, then special nut goes on it and then the sensor screws into it...

Thing I'm curious about is the kit which moves the filter into the middle of the line, looks like it fits where the std line comes off meaning you still run the std filter and the inline filter and hence would still need to replace the block mounted filter as it is before the inline one? I can't figure how the inline kit works...

Cheers,
Tim

don't need it, so it'd be crazy to leave it in if you have an external job.

That photo of mine is missing the fittings.. but you can buy a piece threaded like that filter in the ebay add except it's completely hollow.. or.. I can just use the giant fitting I have on mine for the oil pressure and temp senders.

BTW Tim, you can apparently get the filter out if that fitting in the eBay auction to clean. There was a thread about it on xr6turbo forum. It was reading that that convinced me to get the external filter.

Ok.. did some work on my ICC setup.. by installing my carpoota.




If that doesn't work embeded you can see it here:
{DESCRIPTION}

This is what it looks like on the trial run.



Turns out the electric motors take up too much space under there so I will have to make a false floor further back.. also having trouble with the SSD getting too hot so I've just ventilated the drive cover.. if it still happens I'll rig up a tiny fan and run it from a USB port to keep it cool.

this is the same laptop I use for datalogging and BE tune uploads..

Also got a high res screen that goes into the back of the sun visor.. that is just for use with the bluetooth keyboard/mouse/touchpad that I bought for running FMP or BE etc... (non touch screen stuff)

Also added a bluetooth audio adapter.. so my laptop, my phone or anything else can connect via bluetooth to the audio system now.. total cost of that was 5 dollars.

pretty happy so far.

Some tips.. I use a 12 volt laptop adapter supply with the HP laptop.. but there is a problem.. the adapter outputs the correct voltage, but only + and -ve.. where as the laptop has a sense wire to determine if the supply is genuine and capable of powering it.. and it won't work without the sense wire hooked up... turns out after a bit of testing it seems to expect a 7 volt input on that wire, so I put a resistor from positive 19v to the sense wire and it worked.. laptop runs happily from 12 volt with no inverter.

The laptop and docking station are perfect for this.. when the power goes off.. it runs for 15 minutes then goes into sleep mode.. and with the SSD it wakes up really quickly.. so its been excellent so far..

Last edited by frankieh on Sun Jun 15, 2014 10:01 pm, edited 3 times in total.

wow great work mate ,i can not even work out my home computer .great video of it .

thanks mate.. got the embeded youtube working now and the photo is in the post.

I'm a sysadmin and programmer at a university.. this sort of stuff is part of what I do, though admittedly not in cars. just remembered some other stuff I forgot to add to that post, so gonna do that now.

can see that you love your work ,must have to be very smart to do that sort of work .i take my hat of for people like you .

Nah.. You just need to be good at bluffing your way though and good at searching the stuff on google.

na mate you are good at what you are doing , i could only dream of that knowledge .it takes skill for that sort of work ,there is no bluffing involved .

Great work mate! What type of Bluetooth adapter did you use, and where is it adapted to? Laptop or ICC?

ta... presently it's plugged into the auxiliary input. that way I can just swap the icc to AUX and it will pick up the laptop or the phone. I might hardwire the laptop in by default put put a switcher somewhere... or I could hardware the laptop and then use the laptops bluetooth to connect to my phone and stuff.. still working out the details.

i want to pull the ICC apart and wire in some line outs as well. I have a 5 channel DTS fibre optic surround amp and the Alpine amp and DSP to go with it..

There was a document on here once that detailed how to do it.. I can see the line outs going from the main board to the amp in the ICC.. but I'd like to know more about it before I start experimenting. If anyone has a copy of this doc.. please pm me.. I'd love a copy.

cheers

Frank