|
| djcustomcomputing |
|
|||
|
Ahahahaha sucked in to the holden
good work to you 
_________________ MY BUILD THREAD |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Grimketel |
|
|||
|
cheers DJ, even if the car did all the work. looking forward to getting the manual in and actually getting to drive properly.
update on that. started yesterday, cautiously. spent some time building up a base for the wheel ramps to get enough lift. I dont have and cannot afford to buy 4 axel stands, so I had to adapt. after that I pulled out front drivers seat, removed center console, and began work removing the shifter. Its slightly different that the e-series, as the shifter stays on one piece, you have to pop the top surround out of the base plate, pop out the few wire conections, then get underneath and undo 4 bolts plus the shifter linkage. then it lifts out free and easy one piece. got back underneath, and began to let the oil drain. removing the plugs from the passenger side of the box was a pain in the a***, didnt have an 8mm socket so I had to try and get an 8mm spanner in there and it wasnt easy but after much swearing and cut knuckles, they are all off also. left it at that for the night. plan is for today to get the rest of the connecting lines sorted, a la cooler lines and such, so that the box is completely isolated. Then, when I can round up some help (since Im doing this on my own- not even a spanner passing assistant ><) ill start the process of dropping the box.
_________________ enough isn't enough |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| djcustomcomputing |
|
|||
|
Good luck with it
let us know how it goes Im going to go down the same route when Ive got some cash handy so it'd be good to know any problems you come across
_________________ MY BUILD THREAD |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Grimketel |
|
|||
|
got held up by the starter motor and the belhousing bolts today.
Im using the e series guide from this site, and it seems there are a few differences. only one bolt on the starter is accessable. even if you had the force you couldnt find the other bolts, at least not without lifting the motor out. I began loosening off the bellhousing bolts and the first 5 came undone without a hitch, the sixth wouldnt budge and it cracked my 13mm socket in 3 places and sheared 2 sections. its fooked. went don to the hardware store right on closing time, grabbed another 13mm socket, only to realise when i got home they were all 1/2 inch drives, not 1/4 inch like the one I have. Its bloody hard going when you have sweet FA tools. Im having to do a lot of adaption, and frigging around because I dont have the right tools. close to getting the box dropped, but just a few snags. plus its ferkin cold on that concrete floor in this weather.
_________________ enough isn't enough |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| djcustomcomputing |
|
|||
|
so how are you going to get the other bolt on the starter??
yeah its always handy to have several sockets with different drives put some cardboard down where your laying it saves your back and should help with the cold
_________________ MY BUILD THREAD |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Grimketel |
|
|||
|
Im grabing mums car from her work and heading to melton today to do some shopping for some better tools, have to do it. Im not sure about the starter yet, but ill keep at it till i get it, I wont be beaten by ford engineers. more like dis-engineers, its like they try to make it as difficult as possible. common sense would dictate that they design it to go together (and thus come apart) as easily as possible in order to uncomplicate the construction process.
but the thing is it seems is that since robots put them together, theres no space in the design to take it apart. its like theyve gone american and have designed throw away cars. Id hate to be a mechanic if one of these came in needing a new starter motor.
_________________ enough isn't enough |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| xpvanman |
|
|||
Age: 58 Posts: 252 Joined: 22nd Mar 2008 Ride: BF F6 Typhoon. XP Van.XF Hearse Location: Newcastle |
It's easier to get the top starter motor bolt before you lower the transmission crossmember - You can get them out with a stumpy 13mm ring/open ender.
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Grimketel |
|
|||
|
thanks for the tip vanman, Im sorta feeling my way in the dark on this one.
good news is I got it. there seems to be a linear ratio of swearing vs success going on. less swearing at the car less success lol. in the end I had 3 X 3/8th drive extensions on a 13mm socket, the trick was getting it past a bar that runs from under the tip of the starter motor to the bottom rear corner of the BBM. its angle pretty much crosses over the point where your extension needs to go. Took forever to get it out, coz I could only turn the ratchet two clicks at a time. arms and abs got a fantastic workout. The hurdle currently is the top belhousing bolt on the exhaust side. its aprox 2 inches from the firewall, and lines up with the edge of the cylinder head, making socket access impossible. it has some ribbing either side of it, making spanner access troublesome also. in the end I had an open ended spanner (3/4 inch, since the few spanners i found in the shed are all imperial) from above, i was kneeling on the rocker cover, pulling upwards. that took a while to crack as well, but its loose now. I gave up for the night because the insulation on the firewall is causing all sorts of iritations. all down my neck, hands, eyes, arms and lungs.
_________________ enough isn't enough |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Grimketel |
|
|||
|
Im going to need one of those close end ratchet spanners, since the turn of the bolt is difficult to pick up again with the size of the 3/4 spanner and the space available with the ribbing.
this should hopefully get the top bolt out. If theres one on the intake side Im going to kill myself, because it would be the final "impossibilty" straw. Im hoping beyond hope that the top starter motor bolt performed the same function on the intake side. If this is the final bolt to go on the bellhousing ill be over the moon. My tip to anyone wanting to perform the same operation on an AU is dont. not unless you are really good, and have heaps of tools. and patients. and will to live. lol
_________________ enough isn't enough |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Grimketel |
|
|||
|
bloody spewing there were two more bolts on the top left above the starter motor area. so thanks to vanman, i used his trick of loosening off the bolts at the extension housing and let it drop down on the angel. even so it took a long time to undo with just a 3/8th drive ratchet. a long time.
but they are off and the boxx is seperated from the engine block. biggets issue now is the fact i put the car up on ramps, so i couldnt undo the tailshaft first, since i needed it to push me onto the ramps. now i cant move the gearbox back far enough to clear the block, and the rear of the car is not accessable. packed it in for another night lol.
_________________ enough isn't enough |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Grimketel |
|
|||
|
the box is out. ended up cutting the tailshaft, since the bolts at the diff are inaccessable. good thing the kit came with an xr6 alloy shaft to replace it
 i left the torque converter on coz i dont have a spanner that fits the nuts, so i just inched it off the TC backwards. bugger to balance on a rolling jack, but after much messing around, it was grounded safely.tommorows job is to pick up a spanner to fit the TC bolts and get it and then the flywheel off. the other job is replacing automatic transmision loom, which begins in between injectors 5 and 6 and under the BBM down to trans tunnel. It has probably close to 13 diffent connectors that all have to be correctly swapped, so its going to be a slow and steady aproach there. after that its a case of flywheel/clutch/pressure plate going on, and then lininh the t5 up and bolting it together. plug all the conections up, and make sure its all nest under there. then its putting in the manual ecu, and installing the interior again. hopefully done by monday 
_________________ enough isn't enough |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| BenJ |
|
||
|
I have to give you credit for giving it a go with the limited tools that you have.
I really recommend strongly, that you go out and buy large set of 1/2 inch drive sockets and ratchet. Also get a 1/2 inch uni joint, and some extra extensions. Even a cheap set will last you many years, and make these sorts of jobs that much easier. There will still be oil in the TC, so look out for that when you are undoing it. You will need to stop the engine from spinning some how. I have used a large flat blade screwdriver wedged in the starter motor hole between the ring gear teeth with some success. But really, and extra pair of hands is invaluable. Good luck with the rest of the conversion. BenJ
_________________ BenJ's EB T5 DOHC Ghia Wagon - Current Ride |
||
| Top | |
||
| Grimketel |
|
|||
|
Quote: But really, and extra pair of hands is invaluable. i cannot agree more with this. flying solo has been a bigger PITA than my toolset. I went a bought a 40 piece 3/8th drive set, that has metric up to 19mm sockets and imperial up to 3/4 iirc, with extension, 1/4 adaptor, and screw handle, and 2 sparkplug sockets. that was 60 quid at autobarn, supertool brand or something... has goten me through the socket ends of things, now i need spanners lol. Look on the bright side at the end of it, ill have a decent tool set thanks for the encouragement ben.
_________________ enough isn't enough |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Grimketel |
|
|||
|
please refer to
gearbox-suspension-brake-driveline-f4/urgent-help-needed-advice-t79166.html and see what you can contribute to solving this issue with the conversion.
_________________ enough isn't enough |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Grimketel |
|
|||
|
well Ive made the odd phonecall or two, and according to darren at FTG, the wires should be matched together regardless of plug position (for those who are familiar with the above thread link). aparently ford use a certain colour wire for each job, and thats more of a constant than pinouts on plugs.
so Ive started the job of soldering the new plugs on, and the hard bit is the loom is in the engine bay lol.. making it difficult. it is however prefferable to removing the loom again. thats how much of a pig that job is. The torque converter refuses to budge. the bolts are in there so tight it snapped my brand new spanner. ive used all sorts of bolt loosening methods, from tap shocking, to tightening the bolt to crack the seal. ive even used locktite brand spray which is supposed to chill the nut, making the steel contract, and release the seal on the thread. so far... nothing. so the attempt is to cut through the nut on the torque converter. I am perterbed that more and more I am resorting to cutting ><
_________________ enough isn't enough |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Who is online |
|---|
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 83 guests |
