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| cjh |
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The rocker cover gasket was leaking oil......so off with it, and the rocker gear, fitted that EF XR6 cam ,which is now about 150 grams lighter, fitted new HLA's, and a new gasket and PCV Valve gromet, and took it for a drive.
Feels the same up to 3,000 rpm, then pulls more than it did, and keeps going past 4,000 rpm as where the old cam felt like it wasn't doing much anymore after 4,000 rpm. Now it needs another retune. I was comparing the the measurement on the lobes, EA to EF XR6.....same measurement, base to lobe for inlet, but the Exhaust was more....about 1 or so millimetres. I was also looking at where the cam gear alignment hole was in comparison between the 2 cams, and the EF one appears to be retarded ( inlet lobe ). I didn't take any photos.....I was in a hurry so I wasn't doing it in the dark. I took me 2 & 1/2 hours to do.
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| cjh |
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I finally got round to dyno testing the car......I got 219.5hp at the treads......161kw.
Looks like I need new valve springs....  .....oh well....they are on order now.
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| cjh |
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I've fitted the new valve springs, Crow Cams p# 7739-12, and it hasn't helped it at all......
.....looks like I'll need to tune it some more............oh wellll......
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| TimmyA |
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Hey mate,
You seem to be the guy in the know about swaybars... Read your swaybar related posts in here and here: gearbox-suspension-brake-driveline-f4/whiteline-30mm-front-swaybar-does-it-come-with-d-brackets-t108570-30.html?hilit=whiteline I and still running std bars presently... Do you reckon it's just easier to non adjustable bars and what size? Or are adjustable bars better? And whats the pick for swaybar links (this is basically what's prompted this, my rubbers are starting to look a flogged out)... Cheers, Tim
_________________ 93 Red ED 5spd Manual Build Thread |
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| cjh |
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TimmyA wrote: Hey mate, You seem to be the guy in the know about swaybars... Read your swaybar related posts in here and here: gearbox-suspension-brake-driveline-f4/whiteline-30mm-front-swaybar-does-it-come-with-d-brackets-t108570-30.html?hilit=whiteline I and still running std bars presently... Do you reckon it's just easier to non adjustable bars and what size? Or are adjustable bars better? And whats the pick for swaybar links (this is basically what's prompted this, my rubbers are starting to look a flogged out)... Cheers, Tim I went with the adjustable front bar so as to get a better angle of attachment......IIRC, I think in the lit. supplied with the bar was something about it, if being set in the stiffest position, it was equivelant to a 32 or 34mm bar....something like that. The sideway's movement limiters are a must with my set-up. The front bar is a 30mm one, and the rear is a 27mm bar.....everybody that has riden in it, is amazed at how flat it is around corners and roundabouts......damn near like a Gokart. I am very happy with the handling.....and having an LSD is a must too.
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| cjh |
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I did a compression test the other day.....I was fitting some new spark plugs, and thought, why the hell not.....so I did a dry comp. test.
They were all 185 psi, except for #1, which was 190 psi. The engine is approaching 150,000km.
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| cjh |
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In the last 2 months, we have been having heaps 'n' heaps of rain.....and my headlight reflectors have shat themselves....not doing too bad I suppose....they will be 20 years this year.
Anyway, about 10 years ago, I bought new genuine Ford headlight assemblies....for my old white EA.....anyway, I fitted them to the ED today. Should be good to drive home from work in the dark now...... 
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| EF_wanabe |
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Looking nice with the new head lights have followed this thread for quite some time
p.s nice color i think i got the same color as you |
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| BOSXR8 |
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Nothing like NOS parts love it
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| cjh |
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EF_wanabe wrote: Looking nice with the new head lights have followed this thread for quite some time p.s nice color i think i got the same color as you It's not a bad colour, looks good when it is polished/waxed.......but damn, is it hot in the sun....sure makes the a/c have a work out. I'll be doing another dyno run when the weather cools down, and the rain p!sses off. I'm hoping for about 230 hp at the treads this time round....I think I've got the dead spot at the top end sorted now.....you'll see it in the last dyno sheet.
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| EF_wanabe |
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Also i have read the thread from start to finish and your dyno runs WOW is all i can say your using OEM stuff apart from the coil set up the MSD
But why is it so high im that is so unfair
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| cjh |
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EF_wanabe wrote: Also i have read the thread from start to finish and your dyno runs WOW is all i can say your using OEM stuff apart from the coil set up the MSD But why is it so high im that is so unfair Just trial and error I suppose.......  The head is an EA one, with the swirl ridges left intact, just rounded off any sharp edges, and I polished the chambers as well....helps to stop carbon adherering to them. I have also ported and polished it, and it has never been on a flow bench, so I couldn't tell you any flow figures....althought it has a 3 angle valve cut, and back cut inlets. The bottom end is factory original, unopened, ED GLi spec. I have Pacemaker 4480's, homade cat, and twin 2 & 1/4" exhaust and a single muffler with a single 2 & 1/2" outlet. The ignition system is an IC&E 7amp one, with MSD H.T. leads.....it does chew through spark plugs though. I have a piggyback Morristech ECU, adjustable via a laptop, all tuned by me. I also have a 3" open pod air filter....open, as in not boxed in.
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| EF_wanabe |
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cjh wrote: EF_wanabe wrote: Also i have read the thread from start to finish and your dyno runs WOW is all i can say your using OEM stuff apart from the coil set up the MSD But why is it so high im that is so unfair Just trial and error I suppose....... The head is an EA one, with the swirl ridges left intact, just rounded off any sharp edges, and I polished the chambers as well....helps to stop carbon adherering to them. I have also ported and polished it, and it has never been on a flow bench, so I couldn't tell you any flow figures....althought it has a 3 angle valve cut, and back cut inlets. The bottom end is factory original, unopened, ED GLi spec. I have Pacemaker 4480's, homade cat, and twin 2 & 1/4" exhaust and a single muffler with a single 2 & 1/2" outlet. The ignition system is an IC&E 7amp one, with MSD H.T. leads.....it does chew through spark plugs though. I have a piggyback Morristech ECU, adjustable via a laptop, all tuned by me. I also have a 3" open pod air filter....open, as in not boxed in. Just a quick question regarding these cars that you would know How hard is it to fit "bigger" valves as in over sized ones when i go to a machine shop to do it , do they put a new "helicoil" or something some type of way ? as i want to get bigger valves when i get a port and polished |
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| cjh |
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If you fit bigger valves, exhaust can be done, like the Tickford heads, but with the inlets, one would have to be careful that the valve doesn't strike the top of the bore.....like a 4V head on a Clevo....the top of the block is notched for this.
Fitting bigger valves may required the fitting of new, bigger seats.....and is the job for a machine shop. You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
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| EF_wanabe |
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cjh wrote: If you fit bigger valves, exhaust can be done, like the Tickford heads, but with the inlets, one would have to be careful that the valve doesn't strike the top of the bore.....like a 4V head on a Clevo....the top of the block is notched for this. Fitting bigger valves may required the fitting of new, bigger seats.....and is the job for a machine shop. Ok cool hopefully i don't get bent over to much for that job P.S i sent you a PM i got a theory on your car but its a secret ( its nothing bad) |
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