Awesome dude -was just trying to work that one out, so hp tuner is talking to the pcm properly? Sweet, cant wait to see it start-hope mine does too, cheers, Johnny.

Yep, the HP Tuners hardware / software is talking to the PCM properly. When reading the entire VCM with the " VCM editor " software, it will require the VIN number ( That's what your credits will lock to ), after that it will require an ignition cycle. That consists of turning the ignition off for 3 seconds and then back on again, that's why you can't just wire the EEProm power supply to the Vpwr, EEProm power supply is controlled by the HP tuners box.

There is alot of parameters we're able to adjust, can disable certain sensors if we wish too. Just make sure you install the drivers properly and you'll be fine. The software user interface is very user friendly so you won't get lost, if you do happen to do so the program has an in - built help menu.

If anyone has any questions regarding HP Tuners, PM me.

General update - The Barra breathes! Sorta...

Video ( SHORT ) : {DESCRIPTION}

After flashing the PCM with VCM Suite to disable PATS, setting up the fuel tank ect... The moment has finally come to see whether or not the Barra makes spark. Well it does however at the time I failed to remove the trouble code related to the throttle actuator, which will automatically kill the engine.

I Couldn't find some thread tape to seal up the oil pressure senders, so i packed everything away. The main point here is that the Barra indeed runs. Not too far away from dropping it into the EA.

List of things to do :

AC Line(s) Adaption - $50 - $100+?
PS Line Adaption - $50 - $100?
Sump drilled to allow space for clutch cable $0 - $40
New hose kit - $100
Drill & Tap thermostat housing for temp sender - $20
Acquire EA falcon relay pin for fuel pump relay grounding $?
Tach Interface module $80
Spacer for cat converter ( 30mm ) - $?
Bushes for K - frame $40
Purchase new oils for gearbox / engine - $100
Re - Think bracket for heater pipe - $0
Purchase paint for everything - $50?
Loom tube - $25

There's still an easy $600+ To spend on the conversion too... Oh boy!

Will post a quick guide on what I've adjusted to enable the engine to run.

VCM Suite quick tut

To get said Barra to spark, this requires disabling the Passive Anti Theft System ( PATS ), that and I've also disabled the automatic transmission ( Engine wasn't in a vehicle, and I'm using a T5 ).

Once you've read your entire PCM and spend the two credits on the vehicles VIN, you'll then be able to adjust parameters then write to the PCM ( Write calibration only, NOT write ENTIRE ) Once this has been achieved and full control is available, proceed to the next step.

There are nine tabs that run along the top of the user interface, in this case the " Trans " tab shall be clicked and thus a window will pop up. In this " Trans " window we have a number of changeable parameters that sit below the bold " General ". Right underneath " General " is the automatic enable / disable function and by simply clicking the arrow it should be changed to " Disabled " ( If you're starting the engine up in a manual, or out of the car otherwise leave it enabled ). Once this has been achieved proceed to the next step.


The most important, PATS. Along the tabs above the user interface, the " System " tab shall be clicked and thus a window will be opened. Once the " System " window has opened, pay attention to the lower area of the window. Quite obvious it says boldly " PATS " Don't be fooled by disabling both, that will not work ( Experimentation ). The " PATS " Function needs to be Enabled while the " PATS Alternate " function needs to be Disabled. This will piss off the " Theft detected, vehicle immobilized " trouble code, allowing fuel pump, injectors, coils etc... to function as per normal.


Once both of those steps have been completed, It's time to flash the PCM ( This can take up to 4 minutes with a BA PCM, the BF PCM had a better processor ) To flash the PCM, simply click the microchip icon that sits above " Engine Diag " next to the " Vcm suite info " Icon. Don't be tempted to click flash > write entire, that's not needed as the OS isn't being adjusted, leave it alone. After the ignition cycles it will begin to flash the PCM, during this process refrain from accidentally pulling out cables, turning the ignition off ect... Incase this does happen, VCM suite will be able to restore with another write.

Once complete, start er up. If you wish to tinker around with ignition timing, torque management, AFR ect... later on, Do so safely and by small increments. If needed, you can disable sensors like brake input, clutch, power steering etc...

If the engine starts running rough, open up VCM scanner, connect to the PCM by clicking the lightning bolt to the left, with the ignition ON and see if there's any DTC's ( CEL icon ) If you're unsure what they mean, google the Pxxxx trouble code and go from there ( You can clear the codes by clicking the red X ).
Also, you do not require credits to read codes, so if you've got a mate with a BA - FG, or most commodores from VT onwards irrc, VCM scanner will be fully functional without spending any credits.

* List of vehicles it will communicate with * : http://www.vcm-suite.com.au/supported-vehicle-list/

If there's any questions, don't hesitate to ask, I'm here to help as much as i can.

Clutch cable update 1 - Clearance for clutch cable

Unlike the E series design, the Barra has the sump in the way of where the clutch cable would normally mate up against. However, quite conveniently there's casting as to where the cut - out area would be positioned if there were to be a cable. That nice round piece was the target area, remove that area and a clutch cable shall fit. The sandwich plate however, already has the hole drilled out, so there's no need to go mix and matching.

I started by marking where I'll need to make two slits ( Rough guesstimate, i don't have a spare cable laying around unfortunately )



Once the two slits have been made, it gets easier.



I then proceeded to drill 3mm holes around the circle as this would mark on the other side where to cut.



After the holes were drilled I then got out my cheap Rockwell rotary tool A.K.A " Dremel ", and proceeded to then cut out in between the drilled out holes.



I Couldn't leave it looking like an inverted gear, so it was die grinding time.



I'm considering cutting a little more angle on the top, just to be safe! Will this degrade the structual integrity under maximum torque / load conditions? I'm no engineer by any means but I dare say it won't matter, unless i were putting out 600rwkw then I'd be worried. If it breaks, well then you can all learn from my mistake

Hey Bayden, once again you've amazed me-awsome work dude-engine sounds pretty good, should be a great drive for a EA, keep up the inspirational & well thought out build, cheers, Johnny.

Cheers Johnny! How's progress on the XG? Get the PCM flash sorted?

K - Frame update 3 - Plenty of clearance

Before swapping engine / K - frame, I wanted to make sure everything is straight / has plenty of clearance.



Well as we can see here, the sump has miles of room. The bar re - location has paid off.



It seems like the harmonic balancer is colliding with the bar, It's not however not by much either. I believe once it's in the car It'll be tilted back slightly thus eliminating any issues.

Thermostat housing now drilled and tapped

After scrapping the hose adapter design for the dash temp sender, I resorted to the thermostat housing as it's simple, and close to the EA wiring loom ( The wire will be added once the engine is in the car )



I Drilled out where I thought would be a good area, noticed it wasn't very thick and started doubting the idea... Anyway, took it to Enzed and they drilled & tapped it to suit the temp sender for free ( Cheers fellas ) Thankfully it appears solid enough to hold back the water pressure ( Which isn't much at all ).



I'll apply some thread tape to the threads before engine install, also remembering not to tighten it down hard and risk cracking the housing.

Heater pipe bracket now clears AC line

If you've been following this conversion, you'll know that I've mounted the heater pipe to the AC compressor. This was fine, until i discovered the upper AC line was right in the way.



I was not looking forward to cutting up some more steel, bending and twisting etc... So i came up with a simple solution. The bracket that's mounted to the heater pipe itself was bent upwards along with installing a spacer between the custom bracket, and the AC compressor. Everything now fits.



The AC lines will be adapted after the engine has been installed.

Hi Bayden, sorry took so long to respond, yea the xg's coming along, putting the tailshaft back in today along with a ba power steering hose-shifter & cable is in, just have to mod the cat flange to fit the extractors and solder in the harness-fill fluids and flash pcm and im ready for a test fire, oh and a/c lines aswell, heres a pic, cheers, Johnny.

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There goes $180

Not long till that engine goes in!

Until the new hose kit and bushings arrive, I've got to paint everything, get the power steering hose adapted and go over all possibilities.

Here we can see I went shopping,

Fully synthetic 10w-40 for the barra - $60
Z9 filter - $8
1 + 1 = 2L Dex 3 ATF - $24 ( I Could have went with 75w-90 gear oil or transmax Z but that won't allow with the budget, so we shall make do )

Sandpaper 2 wet, 2 dry
Satin black enamel paint - 1L - $25
Paint thinner ( if needed ) - $14
Primer $20
Loom tube 16mm - $26
Thread tape - $1

I Was supposed to pickup some Nulon G70 gearbox additive, however they didn't have any in stock



The Nolathane bushing kit is $45 - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FORD-FALCON- ... 2c6eafb7a5 ROD TO CHASSIS ( K - Frame ), not control arm.

The Coolant hose kit ( For an EF / EL ) is around $110 - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GATES-FORD-F ... 20d268f60a

I've gotta pickup an EA falcon power steering high pressure line to get Enzed to crimp that and the Ba line together ( I'm not going to bend it, that's a terrible idea ).

The bushings will be installed after painting.

Hi Bayden, I was a bit worried about bending the power steering line aswell but have had no choice and the alloy handles being manipulated quite well if you are careful and take your time (definitely won't break),yours should work better going to a rack instead of a box if you were to use the ba one that is.
cheers, Johnny.

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For my power steering hose, I went to Earls, and they custom made a high pressure hose to suit. Then I used a simple steel olive fitting to attach to the pump. The Power Steer switch, was then placed into the rack, instead of the EL one, and wired up to the PCM. Have had no problems and it never leaks. Cost me 160 total though.
Will get some photos for you when I get a chance.

Cheers
Brett

Ouch, $160... At-least it works without fault.

My budget plan is to cut the two falcon hoses in half ( EA rack side, BA pump side ) and crimp them together ( Will talk to Enzed about this ) If they're able to crimp two hoses together, the total cost should hopefully be $50 or less.... I'll just swap the pressure switches around, should work fine.