Wiring update 4 - Relay control finished



Note : These relays are just standard ford 12V relays, thankfully i now have 10+ of them due to owning an entire car.

The relays are now wired up. I Have two larger wires from a heavy duty extension cable that run from B+ to each of the relays, this is the main power input. I have a Positive Relay trigger wire, which is a smaller wire that runs from B+ to the relays, i then split the small wire in half, twisted and heatshrinked the exposed copper so two relays could be wired up with a single wire. The PCM triggers the Relay grounds once the ignition power is present this is called " PWRSTN " that is also split in half to reduce amount of wires. The main power outputs run to the coil / injector / pcm wires after the pcm triggers the grounds, which is also split in half once again.

Next on the list is wiring up all of the ground wires straight to the battery.

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In regardss to air con I just used ba output from ecu as mine has climate control i couldn't get that to work so i just wired up a simple on off switch if yours has standard air con should be able to run it off that switch.

Good luck

Steve

If you got any ideas how to make climate control work give me a yell. Heating side works not the aircon.

Wiring update 5 - 02 sensor and PowersteeringPS

Here we have the 02 Sensor signal wires wired up to the loom, i've actually piggybacked the EA connector for its heater wires ( This is really simple, pictures below ) Power steering pressure switch is now wired up to the loom, rather simple signal wire and signal return. The ground wires were also wired up, i ran them through a connector as well.

The loom is coming together slowly, once all connections have been made i'll then start to pretty it up with electrical tape / loom tube.

Next on the list is wiring up the throttle pedal / obd2 connector.

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im getting moist in the crotch reading this! top stuff!!

Wiring update 6 - Electronic throttle pedal wiring connections made

Been busy lately with my mothers AU falcon which needed abit of attention, but progress on the wiring loom has indeed been made.

Around 50+ crimp connections with solder has been by far the worst part, rather time consuming but worth it in the long run. Yes, 50+ which is why i bought a cheap 500pc crimping kit.

Now, like the other sensors i've ran these wires through a connector, i've also twisted these wires to try and save space ( It is recommended that you twist the OBD2 CAN Hi / Lo to avoid interference ) But in this case i twisted everything! Both OBD2 wires and Throttle pedal wires have been separately wrapped in tape and then taped together, this is so i can remove particular groups of wiring if need be.

The Throttle pedal side of the wires will have to be heatshrinked after being ran through the firewall due to the connector being rather large, the unmodified hole in the firewall for the throttle pedal is more than enough to house around 20 wires, but a grommet will be used during install.

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Nice work man. Barra conversions are so good because the result is heaps!! More power. I've done 2
Wish I'd done one in an EA nice and light your car will hammer.

Well according to Power : Weight, i'll have 10kw less than a stock BA XR6 turbo, which seems pretty damn good. IIRC the early EA's had thin panels too.


As far as the project goes, and the lack of updating, I've been busy with things lately, but progress will continue with the project.

Wiring update 7 - Fuse panel and relay bracket

I've been staring at these damn wires for the loom that connect to either negative or positive battery terminal, originally i had around 5 positive wires. 5 Positive wires, figured that was too many and it'd look horrid so i went with a much cleaner design... I'm running 5 wires into a 10 gauge crimp terminal ( Should hold around 50 amps safely ) It's also soldered for the strongest connection possible.

So i also decided to go with a fuse panel ( This is cheap $20 insurance ) From SuperCheatAuto. It's an 8 way panel but i'll only need 5, however a slot or two may come in handy some time. I had to make up an extra few wires of course, but the result is a very simple and reliable relay system.

The BA starter motor is going to be controlled by the EA 12V signal that comes from the injector / coil power connector near the fuel pressure regulator, that's also where the BA PCM is going to receive its IGNSNS 12v ignition signal. The Keep alive memory is ran through the fuse panel and straight to the battery B+.

The Relays were just flopping about so therefore a PLASTIC bracket was made to sit in place of the E series map sensor, don't make the mistake of making up a metal bracket with no insulating coating. I cut a 90 degree piece of plastic out of the BA relay box... Sanded, drilled and cut to shape to properly house the relays ( I sacrificed a relay by heating the terminals up to create the markings for said terminals to slip through, but a very hot screwdriver was used to make clean rectangular cutouts ) Everything seems to fit up, however i'm not too happy with how close together all the wiring is, looks clustered and untidy so improvements may be made to the design.

If anyone is wondering what was done for the female crimp connectors : I used a large piece of heatshrink to slip over the female terminal, leaving a few MM of said heatshrink protruding to create a sealed effect against the relay / fuse panel.

On a good note, most of the wiring connections are done now, everything has to be taped up and simplified ( Tidied up ) All connections will be heatshrinked after a continuity confirmation of wires being in the correct place. Loom tube will be added after the wires for EA dash / ecu have been made.

The day is getting closer...

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Wiring update 8 - BA Body loom complete



Right, i've completed the BA side of the loom ( There's still a few EA control side of things left, but i may keep that separate )

Had to pick up two 1.2M 6.5mm packets of heat shrink from supercheatauto (under $10 because i'm a member ) and finish sealing up all of the crimp connections near the PCM. It's repetitive and a slow process, but i have good solid connections that can be removed if need be.

Now with the OBD2 / Electronic throttle pedal wiring, that will be ran through the throttle cable hole. Issue is, that hole isn't big enough to fit a connector through, so i figured i'd use the whole heatshrink sleeve idea for the crimp connections, that way the loom can come back through the firewall without having to peel off heatshrink.

I've used quite a damn lot of tape, but atleast the wiring will be safe from heat, speaking of which. The O2 sensor wires have shielding around the wiring to prevent the solder from melting or damage to wires ect... The rest of the loom will indeed have loom tube around the wires, but that will be after the EA loom is finished.

Reflecting back to the making of said loom, if there were anything i'd change in the next design ( If i make another loom ) I'd indeed make the loom less thick, and re pin the connectors straight to the wiring ( This would save a dramatic amount of space )

What am i going to do about the security system built into the PCM's software? :

From the research i've done i can take two routes, SCT or HPtuning...
SCT make a simple flash tuner ( Xcal3 ) which costs $795 according to ebay, and the .CEL tune file to disable the Passive Anti-Theft System costs $395 if i were to buy it from ebay as well. This is $1200 to disable some software which i think is outf$$ckingrageous. SCT also can only be used on 5 different PCM's before having to send it back for more unlocks.

HPtuning have a product called " VCM-suite " I believe it's called, This also flashes the PCM and costs $900 for the Kit. Instead of being a standalone device, this plugs into a laptop and comes with software. That software allows the user to adjust parameters, negating the need to pay for a tune file, however HPtuning uses a credit system which costs money. Credits already come with the package, so that's a saving of $300.

Next thing on the list is Oil pressure T piece and Heater pipe modification.

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I think alot of people on here will love you for this man, be very scared you may get men trying to kiss you...lol

but serious dude awesome work, and patience!

I have to ask? why space connectors and all that instead of solder/heatshrink then tidy up?

I despise of using solder itself, but i guess we all have different preferences. In-case the solder breaks down some how, there's still a mechanical connection.

But as i stated before, i should have just re pinned the connector straight to the wires, depending if i feel up to the task I may end up doing so, but it's not too much of an issue currently.

The mechanical connection will break down far before the tin/lead combination... A good solder joint will not fail... Your spade connectors will come loose over time (the actual friction between male and female half) and either cause a hot joint or a high resistance joint... This may take many years but I've seen it happen at work time and time again (7.2A SLA batteries use spade connections)... Screwed connections come loose too... Crimp connections seem to last and soldered connections are pretty much lifetime... As long as you have some form of colour code, or label for each wire you will be able to trace any faults...

Cheers,
Tim

Ah, cheers for the info mate!

Mech mods update 1 - Oil pressure sender

Well now that the wiring loom is complete it's time to move onto the mechanical side of things...

A quick trip down to Enzed in Fyshwick and picked up a tapered female T piece for the oil pressure senders. The EA - ED falcons use that big bulky sender for the dash, where as the BA uses a much smaller unit ( For Oil warning light iirc ) Currently not using thread tape due to test fitting.

Picked up an EL air filter box, came with the filter so that's a bonus... When using the barra motor, it's absolutely necessary to fit an EL - AU air filter box ( These will bolt straight in ) Don't forget the snorkel and ducting. The snorkel however will not screw straight into the fan shroud, i'll cover this later.

The spare EA throttle pedal was a cheap buy, and quite clearly you can see the bloody massive difference between the E series DBC and B series DBW throttle pedal. The EA pedal itself will be removed from the bracket it pivots in, and that bracket will still bolt up to the original location. A Bracket will be fabricated to join the EA throttle pedal bracket up to the BA throttle pedal ( See available mounting points below ) The enormous BA pedal body will have to push up all of the wires under the dash but it will fit.

Trying to chase up a heater pipe from EL - AU and a spare K frame from another EA - ED, but everyone is charging an arm and a leg for the damn things... Not to mention the rarity of an AU T5 bellhousing! But i'll try to gather said items as quick as i can to continue updating for you guys.

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