Making some good progress Sooty. I must ask... how do you remove that drive gear of those dizzy plugs? I couldnt work it out when I did my conversion so i stuck with the old gear

Thanks mate.
The drive gear is held in place with a roll pin. Just use a punch or drift to knock it out, and the gear will slide off the shaft. Easy-peasy!
FYI - Just make sure when fitting the gear to the shaft that the holes line up 100% accurately. Some dizzy gears are slightly offset, but you'll see if it's wrong.
Cheers,

OK, the AU engine is in and fitted. It was a pretty easy conversion, most things bolted up easy, and those that didn't I made work easily enough. I havent got it running yet, for two reasons. First, the drive belt is now too short, I need one about 2" longer. It should be here today. Secondly, it was as hot as f**k on Sunday, and after 8 hours work, once we found the belt didn't fit, I'd had enough. All that's left to do is a few things around the LHS of the engine, fuel lines, heater hoses, etc, replace the oil pressure switch, fit the belt, radiator, fans, add water, change the oil and filter, set the timing, and she should be right to go.
Pics coming soon.
Cheers,

OK, I sourced a longer belt today, the new one is 2460mm long, as opposed to the 2400mm of the original XH belt. Fits like a charm, so that's one problem sorted.
The exhaust has been refitted, so now I just need to finish a few things on the LHS, fit the radiator, fans & airbox, and refit the shifter and console, and she should be ready to fire up. The oil in the engine now looks nice and clean, so I will start it up on that oil, and then once it's timed properly, and the engine is warm, I'll change the oil and filter, and that's the whole job done.
Here are a few pics of the mods we did to the K-member.
Cheers,


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Some more pics.
It's all in and running, very happy with it. I recommend this to anyone who needs to replace there engine.


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OK to update:
The AU's been in and running now for a week. I knew the timing wasn't quite right, so I just took it real easy when driving it, listening for any pinging. It did ping a bit on the first day, but since then it seemed to go away. So the knock sensor must be working. I pulled the dizzy out on saturday and re-timed it, so it is now spot on. It had a bit of a ping for a few k's, but now it seems all good again, and is going well.
But, i still have a bit of a miss / stumble at low revs, say ander 1500rpm, when under a bit of load, etc. It doesnt feel electrical, as it goes away at higher revs, and doesnt come back, even when under heavy load, etc, unless it drops below 1500rpm. It feels like a lean stumble, but I'm really not sure. The entire electrical system is straight from the old motor, and it had no miss or stumble at all. The only part that is different to the old engine, (apart from the engine itself) is the AU injectors. I fitted the injectors from the AU into my XH (log manifold) fuel rail. Everything fitted fine, they plugged into the manifold and rail fine, the wiring plugs are the same, etc. It has no fuel leaks, and the engine pulls real hard all the way to 4500rpm, (which is as far as I have revved it so far), without a problem. I had the plugs out on saturday, and they look good, nice and grey, all the same, etc.
Have i missed something here? Do I need to use an AU fuel reg? Or is there an adjustment, etc that needs to be made? I suppose I could have a bad/dirty injector, but surely if it were that it would be the same right thru the rev range. I don't have the budget to have it checked by an EFI place, so any advice will be appreciated.
Cheers,

Last edited by sooty72 on Wed Jun 13, 2012 11:56 am, edited 2 times in total.

Could me intake manifold gasket or some sort of leak around there. Dis you use your original oxy sensor? Trying the XH injectors will rule that out. At least it doesn't take long.

It's a new gasket, so I doubt it's leaking, but I'll check that.
I have been told to check the TPS, but as it's straight off the old engine, undisturbed from the intake manifold, I can't see it being that.
I was also told to check the AU injectors are not too big (doubt that) or the wrong impedence??? Any thoughts here??
I did have a thought about the fuel lines. I did not reattach them, It was done by my step-dad, so he may have them the wrong way. Could there be an issue causing a miss/stumble at low revs, if the fuel lines are connected a*** about? It would still run, but would it cause this problem?
Any other ideas?
Cheers,

AU injectors are a common fitment, they are compatible. Impedance and size are the same, just better spray pattern.

Tps voltage would be worth checking.

Fuel lines would cause car to not run at all.

Check intake manifold bolt tightness. O2 sensor, map etc. try XH injectors.

Good luck, sounds annoying.

I've had more time to think about this, and I'm going to fit my old injectors, and see what that does. I cant see it being anything else, as nothing else has been disturbed. I've got toomorow off, so I'll do it then and see what happens.
Cheers,

Alright, problem solved. It runs fine now, no miss or stumble at all. And I didn't refit the XH injectors. It still has the same AU injectors in it, the same ones I fitted with the engine. In fact, I didn't replace any parts at all. Nor did I adjust, tighten, or in anyway modify anything to solve the problem. Any one care to hazard a guess?

Well, I won't waste your time, or any more of mine. Basically, I fvcked up, a basic apprentice - type stuff up. My only excuse is that I was tired, it was hot, and I hadn't fitted injectors for over 13 years. But I'm big enough (?) to admit when I made a mistake. So here it is, the reason the ute was missing / stumbling just off idle, running ragged, etc.



When I removed the old XH injectors, the end cap came off three of them, and stayed stuck in the intake manifold! I didn't notice, and just jammed the AU injectors in on top of them. So 3 of the AU injectors had to get all there fuel into the engine thru a tiny little hole in the end cap of an E-series injector stuck in the way.



No wonder it didn't run properly! What a dumbass! Oh well, at least it's fixed now. And I have learned another lesson for the good of all Ford Modders everywhere. Aren't you all glad I did this, so you will know what to look for if you fit AU injectors into an E-series intake, and leave part of the old injector behind to block the hole?

Anyway, it goes well now, no problems at all, at least not until the next one.
Cheers,


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Yes.

I did.
And no one else figured it out, so I win. Yay!

I'm quite happy with it. I only went for a quick 5 minute spin after fixing it, but I'm happy with it. It'll do for now, maybe a cam and valve springs in the future. It will turn the tyres easily enough as is, but I need to limit that, as tyres are not in the budget for a while. For now I just want to be able to drive it and not have to top up the petrol and fill up the water!
Cheers,

I had to remove the T5 last weekend, as the throw out bearing had started to rattle. I got a new bearing for it, and took the car out to Mum's so I good get it up on the hoist. We had the trans out pretty quick, and when i unbolted the bellhousing, the clutch fork with throw out bearing fell out on the ground. Not good. I checked fitment of the arm on the pivot bolt, and it is really loose and sloppy. I fixed that by adding a small washer to the bolt, on top of the throw out. Now it sits nice, pivots neatly, and won't rattle. So on with the new bearing, (the old one wasn't too bad, but a bit notchy and stiff) but then i noticed the locating lugs on the arm where the bearing attaches are half worn away. I didn't attach too much importance to this at the time, as i didnt have a spare arm, and didnt think we could repair it. Everything went back together fine, but the rattle is still there. The bearing and fron cover on the T5 looked and felt fine, no slop or wear evident at all. But this annoying rattle from the bellhousing area only goes away when very slight pressure is applied to the clutch pedal. I found if i tighten up the cable more than i would normally, the rattle is gone for good, but the grab point in the clutch is with the pedal more than 1/2 way up. I like it to be quite low.
I will try and get another arm and see if that fixes the problem.
Any thoughts?

Noise goes away when clutch is in ??
Have a read: gearbox-suspension-brake-driveline-f4/clutch-won-t-work-t86542.html and yeah, the TO bearing is meant to lightly run against the pressure plate.

Other thing is if it's a high KM box, one of the trans guys (or was it xr9ute?)did say high synchro wear can cause rattling.
Mine sounds like a diesel, never really bothered as everything works fine - I think easiest way to diagnose is disconnect the cable, take off the dustcover, and while the car is running manually move the TO lever, and watch with a torch what the bearing does.