It's time to throw some more money at the ef. Whats already been done is here ---->( http://www.fordmods.com/forums/viewtopi ... 0top%20end ) and this is what i'm doing this time:
Crow cam 621371 (Medium performance cam for auto trans cars) & also rebuilding the GT40p's With there valve train kit(K6201) & yella terra's street terra 1.6:1 roller rockers.
Magna flow 2.5" cats & a hooker aero chamber muffler.
Re ring and new bearings for the block.
70mm tb to see if its any better than the 75mm one.

I'll be doing all the work myself with the help of a ex mechanic that i work with which will keep the cost down.

Any thing else i should replace or do while the motor is out?
Also will the ef stallie be good enough for this cam(power range 1800 to 5800) or should i be looking for a 2500 or so stallie?

Last edited by Swine on Tue Jan 13, 2009 7:40 pm, edited 3 times in total.

I've ordered everything except the rings & bearings so hopefully it should all arrive this week & i can get the exhaust done on the weekend.
The only parts change was crow cams double springs instead of the singles & a 2200 stall converter.
Now i only need to find a XHII Manual 6 to become my new daily so i can get started on pulling the motor out.

Last edited by Swine on Sat Nov 01, 2008 11:07 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Ah well i ended up buying a 1995 XG longreach gli auto 4.0 on gas(Pics up Monday) which is no where near a XHII manual but it equals more money for the xr8.

Nice project mate, suprised i didnt see this thread.

Cam choice is nice, although you may have wanted to check if you could have got away with 1.7 rockers, the extra lift would have been nice. You probably still could, just check piston to valve during assembly and if the allowance is there you may be able to swap the rockers to 1.7s with your supplier.
The extra stall on the convertor will work well too, 2200 is nice, depending on how the cam is degreed in it could almost match it perfectly.
I'd be pulling the crank and measuring the journals before ordering bearings, hopefully it will be alright and std size bearings can be used, if not it may need a grind and o/size bearings used.
Cats and muffler sound good but what size pipes are you running?
I'd definately reccomend ditching that 75mm T/B, 65mm would be the best for that mild combo or a 70mm would be MAX.
Your cobra manifold will suit nicely aswell, and i notice your running no MAF sensor too which is one less thing to worry about.
Your 24lb injectors will be fine too.

Obviously you've got the other bits sorted like extractors, u/drives, air filter, modified air-box and intake piping.
You going to be looking at ignition and fuel pump upgrades?
I'd also be throwing in a set of 3.7 diff gears at least, 3.9's would be more preferable, will keep you off that stall abit better while trying to cruise around.

Yeah should wake the old girl up a bit.
As for the rockers crow recommended the 1.6 as they would suit the set up better but i'll look into the 1.7 when the time comes.
Was going to order the ring's & bearing's after the motor was striped down to confirm sizes.Not knowing the full history of the motor who knows what i'll find but I'm hoping stock bore.
The exhaust is Genie extractors into the cat's then 2 1/2" to a single 3". Was thinking about getting pacies but not sure if there would be much difference.
What is the air box mod you speak of?
How will the under drives go on a car that will only be driven once a week?
As for fuel & spark ill what until its tuned to see if anything need's upgrading.The bloke who tunes my car said the factory pump was good to 200rwkw which should be enough.
The car already has 3.9's.
I'm hoping everyting should work well together & not have one thing holding everything else back. Problem is it's going from the cam being the weakest link back to heads being the problem. AFR's here i come

Yeah they probably said that coz the specs on their sheet are for 1.6's. 1.7's would give it about another .030" lift.



I think the genies arent too bad. As long as the primaries are at least 1 5/8" you should be alright. Unless you find a set of pacies for cheap it wouldnt be worth the extra $$$ for new ones.



Basically just meant that make sure you've got a decent sized snorkle, cut a nice hole in the front of the airbox (as per my build thread) and de-rib the lid. Then just ditch the convoluted intake pipe for a nice 3" s/steel or ally one.



The same as they would on a car thats driven on a daily basis. I drive the ute only once a week and sometimes it'll even sit for 2 and i have no dramas what so ever.



Yeah you may be alright for the fuel pump, you'll soon know when its on the dyno. With the spark i'd just make sure the dizzy cap and rotor are new, a nice set of leads (MSD reccomended) and a decent coil. I would also reccomend running a multi-spark box like my Crane HI-6S or an MSD unit just t crisp it up in the lower RPM's and keep the high RPM spark nice and fat.



Sweet, your onto it



If the GT40P's are std then they may become the bottleneck. But i still think it'll be a nice little mild combo.

Found this on a stang site: ""GT40P heads reach their flow peak at 0.500" of lift so there'll be little benefit in going to 1.7's"", But i've also read the max is .550" so to make it easy i'll stick with the 1.6's as the cam is at .505".



The genies are 1.42" outside diameter so maybe should go pacies.



Hoping to get the intake pipe done tomorrow, lid is already nice and smooth & i've also got a turbo six snorkel just needs some modding to fit.
Did you just hole saw the front of the box or is there piping?






The ignition has new Accel cap,rotor,coil & 9mm eagle leads so should be good to go.



Will order the Race series underdrive kit from bpt as it seems good bang for buck.



I pick the Ute up tomorrow afternoon so as long as there's not to many hidden problems with it i can start work on the xr8 next weekend:D.

Yes good point with the max flow at .500" lift with the GT40P's. Just keep in mind if you end up upgrading heads go to 1.7 rockers.
If the Genie primaries are that small i'd definately be stepping up to pacies.
With the airbox i just cut out a big square hole in the front of the box with a jig-saw and put some trim-lok around it to tidy it up.
IMO the BPT pulley sets are abit too pricey, there was a group buy on hre recently that had them going for $120 to your door and they were nice polished aluminium ones.

They sound like the same extractors i just pulled off mine. They limmited me to 189rwkw max. I now have 1 3/4 4 into 1 difillipo's. 3 in collectors. Well worth the money. Mine were $1450 delivered with ceramic coating.
Brett

Just a quick update, motor is finally out so things should start moving a bit quicker from now on. No major drama’s apart from the power steering pulley & a f**k extractor bolt. . Exhaust as been fitted just need to pull it all out again to paint. The Aero chamber muffler sounds a lot better than the other straight through muffler I had, no where near as droney or as loud at high rpm but that also might be the new cats. Still got make my mind up on a few extra parts, but im in no great rush.
No turning back now :D

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Let the games begin. Look forward to the outcome
Brett

Good to see that you're having a go with the hands on approach.

The hands on approach is the only way to go if you want to really know your car.


Finished fitting the new springs,retainers & valve stem seals today & thought i throw on the new rockers to see how they looked.

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Were the seals a prick to put on? I had to machine a punch (plastic)to get my suckers on. Are you going to touch the heads, port wise, while they are off the motor?

No drama's with the seals i just used a long reach 10mm socket and tapped them down.
As for porting I'm not to sure, i think i got quoted $400 to $500 pure head but will there be that much of a gain to warrant spending another $800+ on the gt40p's? My thoughts were the money would be better spent on some AFR's later on. Just need the dollar to get back up to 85c.