Interior is fkn sweet man. Good score there for sure. Black into EF/ELs looks pure sex.
Got the window buttons today, A++

Damn, i'm diggin those black leather seats..... Look sexy as f**k

Cheers guys, and f**k there surprisingly warm and comfy, mom always says how hers are cold, which was worrying me as my car heater started playing up couple weeks ago, but been coping with the 6am drive to work without it.
Good to hear you got the switches, good luck with them.


haha yeah it's a decent headunit, 3 preouts etc. looks cool and has the touch screen and voice prompting, but maybe, as I'm hoping for something that I can use a flashdrive or sdhc card on to atleast store more songs, see what happens when i get a 2 gig sd card, just be aware they wont accept sdhc only sd like my camera and video camera etc., I'm stuck with 3 of the buggers now due to preemptive buying, and have nothing to do with them, but leave them in their packet to collect dust

and yeah thought about it but on the tech doc, it sounded like it wasn't such a good spot for them.

Hey guys just wondering some opinions of these?, there territory spares, in 17x7.5.



Although,there in au+ offset, I've heard change to an au diff in the rear is rather painless, but have many had luck changing to au steering arms, and what degree did they need to be modifed, like how different is the front suspension setup?

Just be nice to go wide tyres, better front brakes atleast, eg find a set of twin pot fronts, off an au/ba, could mostly like acquire these pretty cheap, but still keep the black stocky look.

I understand another possibilities could be getting the center moved further in to the rim? has anybody priced this up before, recoating after weldings not an issue.


Oh and I think where, well on our way to proving ford are designed to be abused.

old ef 350k, acquired at 70-80k run into the ground, lucky to get an oil change, after dad work out he could replace the motor for the cost of a few services. the trans pretty much packed in reverse, otherwise it'd still be on the road today, still was better than the hyundai's trans.

Mums new au ghia, ticky running gear, qold class warranty etc, get's all the services. Acquired at roughly 140k, probably done about 20-30k.
coilpack, plugs, leads, thermofans, etc. then threw the belt and destroyed the tensioner arm, and ac compressor plug, rendering it stuffed, few other things, and trans is a bit rough, was mint condition when purchased, just immaculate, for a car that the dealer hadn't had a chance to tart up yet.

my dads au aftermarket duel fuel, bought at about 160-180 now on 222k other than replaceing a few pcv valves it blew up in back fires, oh and topping up the water leak. Finally gave it an oil change on monday, first one since we've owned it, (40-60k's) and topped up trans, since it slipped a couple times the other day.

Whats it do blow a radiator hose today, f**k me dead, no wonder taxi's survive.

The AU front is a no goer.

The only person who has done this, had to completely graft/weld in half of the front chassis rails, after cutting most of the std rails out.

The other way is to drop $1500+ on a big brake kit that also results in AU offset wheels being needed.

BenJ

Joel,

UPC Brake kits. Enough said, get one, quite a few guys up here are running them issue free

Ahwell as much as I'd like to do it especially since i could get an au xr diff for under 300, we've decided to postpone it for simpler stuff to start with.

Anyway I've started gutting the car, going to fix up rear seats, take the dash out sort out the wiring and fit the front doorlooms get rid of the dodgy wiring. Fairlane cluster to go in and pab dash with similar plans to ringastinga.

Also have an ELXR diff and T5 conversion sitting there for it.

I'm thinking bringin back to my mate friday arvo with everything over, drie in go at the dash and doorlooms, have the soldering stuff ready to go.
Fix all the looms. and fit pedal box. fairlane cluster.

If goes as planned. dump the diff or gearbox, undecided on this, and change, eg flywheel, etc.

thinking gearbox then diff, but depends on the timing.


Anyway got a few questions to go with the plan of attack.

and sure I'll have more.

A: does anybody know what it would cost to get it mod plated, and of anybody who could do this?

B: I've heard I should get the fly wheel machined prior to fitting being a used flywheel, how important is this and can anybody recommend anybody in brisbane to do it?

C: with the resistor trick I'm thinking i might do it as a temp measure, to see encase I find I'm not comfortable driving manual, been a long time since I've driven one.

I'll leave it at that for now.

Definitely get the flywheel machined.

Mine was only $40 to get machined. I just went to the local parts store and asked if they knew a place that could do it for me. Any Brake/Transmission specialist should be able to.



Re installing the diff, you can do that either before or after. If you want to get the feeling of how much difference the manual conversion makes with your car, do it after, so you can drive your car with the T5 and your existing diff.

I am using the resistor trick, and it drives great.

Good Luck
BenJ

nice seeing your car in person ozbmx,

how did you like my exhuast lollol

mate has returned so during the week if you wanna pop around he will sus out the damage lollol cheers

Cool sounds like resistor trick it is then.

Sounds like it could be going in the big shed this weekend, so we'll see what happens

ok few more questions

A: I got a ef/el manual pedal box with cruise switch but have read that they are extremely poorly designed, am i better to just modify it' I have another manual box out of an ea for a clutch pedal.

B: Also will the plug be there for the cruise switch?

C: I was told to use auto trans fluid? does this seem right, or am I better using something else?

D: if i use the manual pedal box, is there a way to reinforce it?

I know theirs a few questions but I'm trying to be as prepared as possible as it being off the road, is fairly major problem, so need to get it through, asap, Also don't get much in the way of time off either, last 2 weeks I've worked 7 days.

Ok box, and diff is in dash is half in, mate took it out for the first spin tonight,

f**k it pulls now.

some progress photos to come

But in the meantime, got a few hickups, the wipers won't stop, they seem stuck on intermediate and I've lost power windows, anybody got any thoughs on this?

I did the resistor trick and it's not seeming to bad, not perfect, but not to bad.

Ok anyway some pics to go to with the heresay, and first pics, have gutted my interior back to bare minimum , but in the meantime, I've sourced a black perforated au xr leather wheel to match the now gone, leather shifter, I painted the bag not a great match, but probably the original colours pretty close to inbetween the 2 due to the wheel has bit of of wear. Although photos doesn't do it justice,



Also Got an extra bit to help clean up the look of it's a** despite the damage.


I've Also got another cluster to steal a plug out of for a fairlane cluster conversion, I ended up soldering up a plug and play adaptor loom. Then I can chnge back if desired.

For a couple reason, the odometer needed sorting, as it's a bit to high, and I read in the tec doc using a trailer will destroy the cluster. And since i use the trailer a bit for various jobs, It's not something I'm happy with just yet, yet as it is I plugged it n, ran it for a test home to grab the trailer so I could pick something up, AS I was about to plug it in it dawned on me, oh f**k.
Ahwell if anybody know the fix for the trailer, PLEASE LET ME KNOW!!!

Anyway back to start work on the car, old dash ready to come out.


New dash in, the pics make it seem so much quicker, hehe


Anytime, Time to get dirty, first we pulled the auto box out that took f**k ages, when we realized I'd forgotten to get a spigot bearing, shame we didn't know the part number my mate had 2 in stock so if anyone wants one, haha.

Ahwell to late to do anything in well lets do the diff and call it a night.
Outs comes the old diff...

And nice clean diff to go back in.

well got up in the morning went pick a part to try our luck, not what we were chasing pursay but no way fruitless, and off to get the spigot bearing. To get the box in get back change ends to put the box in, and yeah realize we forgot a new rear main seal as mine was leaking, well back out to get that and oil, come, back to fit the manual, now first time something, went supringly easy.


Look, new gear shifter... stick if you may

Just about ready for it first test, my mate took it out as he drives manual. Anyway, she performed all right, haha my mate lit it up around a corner a fair distance from home, and the y recked they heard u down th road. Hahaha.
And yes where talking latish in a very quiet area, with big wide 80 k roads.


And well I was under there I thought I'd take photo show that powdercoat does hold up on springs if done properly, as i know I had a few people second guessing it cracking.
Simply a matter of doing the job, right.

Last edited by OZBMX on Mon Aug 10, 2009 12:56 am, edited 1 time in total.

Re the Fairlane cluster, just don't plug in the Bulb Out plug, or wire it up, and it will be fine. The other way to avoid this issue, is to use some relays to send park and brake power to the trailer plug. This will avoid having to high an impedence in the Bulb Out circuit.

Cheers
BenJ

Awesome, ahwell I think I'll do that for now then, as I'm not sure how that's meant to be wired up anyway.

By the way can anyone direct me to any post on rerouting the amp cable other than through the clutch cable hole?

Can't seem to find it, no I've seen it before.

persistents prevailed, finally found the thread.
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Now just to work out why my wipers and power windows are messed up.