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| Matt_jew |
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Space the K frame down.
It wont actually raise the front of the car as the extra height will be taken up in the control arm pivits but you wil then have some alignment issues to look into.
_________________ {USERNAME} wrote: More people paid for a ride in a VT commodore then an AU Falcon so the VT is superior.
Based on that fact my Mum is the best around! |
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| XR-Lane |
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I guess its hitting on the same area as the steel bonnet. If you can cut it out and fiber glass it, it should turn out alright. It is a shame it will need painting again, but you can do it on the car i spose.
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| charlie4401 |
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f**k nice work man.... love to see this in person
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| Froudey |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Space the K frame down. It wont actually raise the front of the car as the extra height will be taken up in the control arm pivits but you wil then have some alignment issues to look into. I think this would be the best option, I was going to suggest this. Spacing the K Frame with the right spacer won't really affect ride height as was said.... And yes it may affect alignment, OR The bonnet is fibreglass right? thought about cutting the brace section out, and applying something thinnner and wider to help with strength of current bonnet...
_________________ R.I.P Tobias my son. |
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| bradley4567 |
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hey,
flipping awesome work so far im impressed, one day when i get the skills and when i get the money i'll do the engine conversion, expect pm's from me
_________________ ef falcon daily driver |
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| AU99 |
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Phantom did the same conversion on his EF Wagon and cut the bonnet but like you have said would mean repainting the bonnet again..... I still think this would be a better option.
He currently is rebuilding another Shell and has put in BA suspension & Frame, so no need to cut the K Frame. So maybe thats even something worth thinking about..... but that would also mean repainting the engine bay too
_________________ 2003 BA Falcon Egas Taxi Pack - XR Replica |
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| KWIKXR |
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Lol i just read this whole thread for the first time and all i can say is WOW
 A lot of effort has gone into this build, looks bloody awesome. Good on ya champ!! Love the way it has turned out so far. Sucks to hear about the bonnet clearance issue, all seemed like it was coming along nicely from how i was reading the thread until that came up  If it was me, id probably mod the bonnet to fit, rather than space out the k-frame to drop the engine down a bit, all depends on if the section of bracing that is causing the issues can be cut out just enough to get the bonnet sitting right. Seems like a bit too much of a hassle to make up plates for it to space it down and then have alignment issues that will need to be sorted afterwards. Anyways, you got this far so you'll probably work it out no sweat hey  Look forward to see this build progress man, keep up the good work 
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| smithykicks85 |
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Thanks for the comments and suggestions guys. Iv been inversigating what area is hitting under the bonnet and I have a bad feeling its more then that small bracing. Iam thinking it might be safer to add spacers between the chassy and frame. I wasnt aware that itll affect the wheel allignment,
 , however would it be eazy for a local mechanic to allign the fronts again OR will it give me grief?
_________________ Weapon of choice, EB shell with a EL XR front powered by a BA engine. |
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| daboonka |
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mabye take of a lil of the rubber on the engine mounts? or jsut cut out the section of the bracing under the bonnet its touching. wont require much painting will it? anyway cant believe youve actually managed to get this far. nice work indeed. i woulda stoped once i had to custom make stuff. nice work indeed. pics please of when its finished.
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| alfy |
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id be looking at Fordman351's build thread... he has a DOHC in an EL Fairmont with a BA bulge on the bonnet. might have some answers in there.
_________________ 2021 V6 Manual Amarok - 245kw/750nm - many goodies |
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| fiend |
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Yeahp. It might, although since it was done by a "professional" outfit at a cost of over $4000, I think they'd want to hold onto their hard earned expertise in that area...
Anyways, there is a new thread here started called "DOHC into E series" or something... I'll find the link... post1045159.html#1045159 |
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| smithykicks85 |
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Hey guys, iv spoken to a few guys at work and a mechanic mate, and we are going to attemt to shortning the engine mounts some how. Give us a week or so and hopefully Ill have something made up by then. Thanks guys.
_________________ Weapon of choice, EB shell with a EL XR front powered by a BA engine. |
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| fiend |
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Good man... That's by far the best solution if it can be achieved properly... How about making up some new bits that go between the engine block and the actual mount? 10mm plate steel, cut and welded along the seams would be more than strong enough and then you should be able to position the engine just about any height you felt like on the day. Could even be possible to have the option of having different heights by drilling eight holes in the plate instead of four...
Conversely, you could actually lower the engine mounts by cutting the K-Frame out at the correct area and putting in some strengthening bits around the edges and then fixing the original K-Frame bits (the bits you just cut out) into the strengthened recess you just created. As long as the engine sump isn't going to get caught on the K-Frame, you should be right...? And hey -- If you lowered the whole engine as much as possible, it will do great things for the car's handling too! Good luck with it mate - Make sure to keep up the good work with all the photos and documentation you've been doing. It's bloody interesting watching this purple beast take shape. |
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| smithykicks85 |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Good man... That's by far the best solution if it can be achieved properly... How about making up some new bits that go between the engine block and the actual mount? 10mm plate steel, cut and welded along the seams would be more than strong enough and then you should be able to position the engine just about any height you felt like on the day. Could even be possible to have the option of having different heights by drilling eight holes in the plate instead of four... Conversely, you could actually lower the engine mounts by cutting the K-Frame out at the correct area and putting in some strengthening bits around the edges and then fixing the original K-Frame bits (the bits you just cut out) into the strengthened recess you just created. As long as the engine sump isn't going to get caught on the K-Frame, you should be right...? And hey -- If you lowered the whole engine as much as possible, it will do great things for the car's handling too! Good luck with it mate - Make sure to keep up the good work with all the photos and documentation you've been doing. It's bloody interesting watching this purple beast take shape. Hi Fiend thats a bloody good idea about the plate in between the block and mount with selective positioning. As for sump clearence I have more then enough room to play with. Dont worry Fiend ill be photographing and documenting my progress especially with this engine/bonnet clearence issue. Question, why has no one knocked up some engine mount kits for the EA-EL (heck even the x series) designed to fit the BA/F motors???? Just sounds like a eazy cash buisness that you could do in the privacy of your own home and sell on places like ebay? Would be good money I know I would buy pre-made ones.... any ways just a thaught.
_________________ Weapon of choice, EB shell with a EL XR front powered by a BA engine. |
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| fiend |
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If you take some photos of the bits of metal in question off the BA engine and provide good measurements, I could make them. Let's face it, it's just a little hunk of metal with a hole drilled through it above the engine mount attached at right angles to another hunk of metal with three or four holes attached to the block.
But I am in NZ. Surely Aussie has someone capable?!!!!
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