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| PSI Taxi |
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how many 1st to 2nd changes can u get away with before your gearbox says nomore
 i,m too soft to drive mine like that now  looks like fun |
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| TROYMAN |
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huggiebear wrote: haha nice... but remember you dont like smoking tyres lol lol i dont make a habbit of it..  with 18" tyres around the $200 mark each..  PSI Taxi wrote: how many 1st to 2nd changes can u get away with before your gearbox says nomore i,m too soft to drive mine like that now looks like fun i dont know?? my old ea t5 lasted 18 months with the supercharger putting out 216 rwkw.. but i can tell the turbo produces more torque that the supercharger did, i just have to wait and see?? atleast i have a spare back up t5 just incase.. and i still got to get it tuned yet.... |
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| URZ2NV |
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$200 a tyre, damn i only pay $135ea for 20's
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| huggiebear |
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well remind me not to go in your car lol there is only 1 tyre over 19" id trust thats cheap and thats nankangs
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| TROYMAN |
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gee they must be pretty s**t tyres...
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| Dansedgli |
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Usually guys with 20's on E series dont have enough power to need more grip.
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| URZ2NV |
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Correct i dont have power its a boat, and between camber wear and wheel spin i dont really care how they perform, anything is better then getting re-treads, plus im too broke to afford $300 a tyre.
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| EBI347 |
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Dansedgli wrote: Usually guys with 20's on E series dont have enough power to need more grip.  OI A BIT HARSH I HAVE 20"
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| fairlane6970 |
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I think you might be one of the "un" usuals!
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| Raptorsc |
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TM
When you mentioned heat issues back a page or so .... were u just meaning you needed to add more shielding/beanie before you used it or was there actually a radiant heat issue that showed up that wasn't expected Looks wild enough otherwise Are there many engineered turbo E series around at all, I have never looked to know but am guessing you have a fair idea. I am guessing not as most people like the low cost boost and engineering just doesnt fit a budget
_________________ Raptor SC, blow your mind ..... not your wallet |
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| TROYMAN |
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tim
the heat issues were more radiant heat from the turbo, as the exhaust side is fairly close to the brake master, the brakes seem to get a bit slack and start to fade after an hour of normal driving making the master cyl that hot it cannot be touched by hand, the same goes with the bonnet. a make shift heat sheild for the turbo has worked well, but there is still alot of heat soaking into the engine bay and bonnet.most of the heat issues are now under control with the aid of hoses wrapped in heat wrap covering cables and brake lines ect.. engineering? i only know of one other e series that is engineered for turbo in nsw, there is also dazzles 40l turbo maverick that afaik also engineered in nsw. i think is more to do with the costs involved making the whole car roadworthy enough to pass engineering, most engineers wont pass a car if its suspension is too low, exhaust too loud or the car isnt safe enough.. i think most spend there budget on getting boost then realise that by the time they get tuning and other things that need attention along the way, they dont want to spend the $1000-$1500 required in some cases to do other things to make the car engineerable... |
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| Raptorsc |
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TM
Excellent answer, well for me anyway lol Heat shields should do it and is the fiberglass heat tape an option, turboshops have quite an amazing amount of heat control products these days. That stuff they make the beanies from is very impressive, can be glowing red on other side and yet you can touch the top of it. Some of the really good heat control stuff is exy but well worth it. Did you put your oil return into the sump directly or how do you do it on the system you bought? Do you have to remove sump to fit it?
_________________ Raptor SC, blow your mind ..... not your wallet |
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| TROYMAN |
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tim
the oil return line is tapped into the alloy sump just below the alternator via an 1/2" bsp fitting.. some people drill there sumps while its still on the engine but they need to be extremely carefull not to get shavings into the sump.. i removed the k frame and dropped the sump, drilled and tapped it, then re fitted the sump.. it was a bit of work just to get a hole in the sump..lol |
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| galapogos01 |
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Posts: 1139 Joined: 27th Feb 2005 Ride: Supercharged EF Fairmont Location: T.I. Performance HQ |
Sounds great in the vids Troy.
Have you thought about ceramic coating the manifold, dump and possibly exhaust housing? I can't recommend it enough, made a huge difference to underbonnet temps with my headers. Don't know why more people don't do it.
_________________ T.I. Performance - Ford Performance Parts & Tuning - J3 Chips & Tuning, Fuel Pumps & Injectors, Camshafts, Haltech ECUs and more! |
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| TROYMAN |
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galapogos01 wrote: Sounds great in the vids Troy. Have you thought about ceramic coating the manifold, dump and possibly exhaust housing? I can't recommend it enough, made a huge difference to underbonnet temps with my headers. Don't know why more people don't do it. thanks mate. yes i have considered ceramic coating, at the moment the dump pipe is wrapped in exhaust wrap i got off you actually.. and it works really good, the manifold has corigated heat shielding top and bottom.. the main heat is from the turbine housing itself... i wonder if the turbine housing can be ceramic coated?? i think a turbo beanie will reduce 90% of the heat issues, my only concern is being an oil cooled turbo only, that the beanie will also hold huge amounts of heat after shutdown possably causing oil coking in the turbo..?? |
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