Ray / Ben / Troy

If you guys are reading this... Having some trouble with the paint on the ICC parts... I have sanded the plastic to 320 and cleaned with prep wash and painted with septone high fill primer...

Looks good but under use and vibration in the car it has cracked in numerous spots... Possibly not using the right product?

Can't find anyone selling the flexible septone stuff on ebay... Found motorspray stuff but...

They say sand with maroon scotchbright... Then apply three coats of this clear flexibly plastic primer

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FLEXI-PRIMER ... 0839014684

And once that's done coat up with the hill fill bumper prime

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/BUMPER-PRIME ... 27d8aac629

Chasing someone who has painted plastics before so you dudes may know... What's your thoughts?

Cheers,
Tim

Well...

Progress is slow but mostly constant...

After talking to my mate who paints cars for a living... He has looked at my cracking primers and tells me the reason for this is because I left it in primer... Apparently even with an elastomer primers are porous and dry out completely leaving them brittle and they crack... Who knew? Should have painted it straight after I primed it...

Give me something to rub down one day...

The bottom screen visibility bugged me too far... So I have cut it back out and tiled it massively to give me the angle I need to remove the bad polarisation I had...

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Here you can see the top of the screen has gone in about 3/4" and had that piece added into the top, while the bottom has come out about 1/2"

I have roughly shaped the other side in plastic currently to achieve this...

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Should look ok... At least it'll be functional...

Cheers,
Tim

Looking good. You know that if I get that video out working you won't need that bottom screen at all. You will be able to display your heater stuff on the main screen as a video input to your deck.

Yeah possible...

But to see the trip computer or change the climate or check the outside temp I'll physically have to change sources... I'll lose my audio going to video 1 and then have to change sources back again...???

It seems clunky... I made the ICC shorter to fit a bottom screen... So can't even fit the factory pocket any longer... May as well have the screen...

Cheers,
Tim

I was thinking more like the reverse input on those decks.. It doesn't cut the radio, it just briefly displays the rear camera when it gets an earth on its reverse line.

The color ICC does something similar.. When you earth one of the wires it changes to overlay mode.. Where video or whatever plays but any heater changes pop up for a moment in front of it. If you had the deck wired into that, it would work just the same. (I'm counting on it for my plan.)

Yeah no worries...

I intended to hook up the reverse camera once I get it in... I have already installed the trigger wire for it (borrowed the diagnostic wire off the amp)... And the old mobile phone input wires for audio now are the reverse camera input wires... This way all the wires still mate through the plug in the rear of the ICC and I do not have to unplug them separate when removing it...

The only cords that hang through the bottom are the antenna still, 2 usb plugs, mic cable, and now the sniffy motor seeing as there isn't the space in the ICC for it any longer... Plus the two plugs for the bottom monitor, button matrix and then the comms line back to the main ICC board...

Cheers,
Tim

Hey y'all...

Long time no see... Been busy I guess... Built a shed but!

Curious, the turbo threw the Mil the other day that and the dtc was p1228 which is waste gate opening causing low boost...

Curious on people's thoughts... It can't actually monitor the wastegate so I guess it is assuming this based on manifold pressure...

Where would one start looking and is there any known issues? Google wasn't much help... It guess it could be the cra not spinning properly or the wastegate leaking maybe?

At a loss currently...

Cheers,
Tim

not really up on turbo's ... but isn't the wastegate controlled by a 'spring'

Well if it's standard b/f series, the wastegate has a controller down next to the battery box bracket.

If the PCM sends a command to the wastegate controller and it doesn't result in a change in pressure... it knows the wastegate actuator is stuffed..

Even with a decent sized manifold leak, opening and shutting the wastegate under boost, will still register changes in pressure that the PCM can see. If nothing much happens to the pressure regardless of what it's sending the wastegate actuator then the PCM knows with fair certainty that the actuator is stuffed or a hose to it has come off. (in my case the former) the fact that it's expecting 6psi but getting 3 without the actuator doing anything it was supposed to, would most likely cause that code.

If the pressure was half what it should be, but still varying predicably with the wastegate controls then the PCM would likely assume a manifold leak or split/disconnected piping instead.

Amazing how much thought they put in when designing these things isn't it?

When my actuator died it leaked air and had a different situation to yours, the spring would hold the wastegate shut, but the PCM was unable to unable to feed the boost though to the actuator to open it when it needed to. I'd start by checking the actuator solenoid down beside the battery bracket and the hose that leads from that to the actuator.

If the solenoid is stuck open, boost will basically open the wastegate with no control at all or the boost will remove half the spring pressure so the pressurised exhaust gas can then push the wastegate partially open.

I've seen the same thing happen when there is a hard kink in the hose leading from controller to actuator.. the boost forces it's way past the kink, but it can't get back out and holds pressure in the actuator which causes it to counteract the spring pressure holding the wastegate shut (which is after all how a wastegate works, and more how an old school boost controller works too.)

start checking the easy stuff.. get under the front of the car and unplug the hose from the controller and force some air in.. (don't go nuts though, putting 60psi from a compressor in will almost certainly kill the actuator if it's not already leaking). The actuator should retract once the air pressure has exceeded the spring pressure. If it doesn't the actuator is stuffed. if it does I'd start looking at the controller. Give it a clean anyway, lots of tutes here about that.

It's also possible that the wastegate door itself is damaged or gunked up. if eveything else checks out, you may have to take off the dump pipe and have a look see.. but I'd leave that till you've eliminated the easier to solve problems.


cheers

Frank

Frank you're a legend mate...

Actually showed the issue last weekend... During the week I put some psi straight up the wastegate and it works fine... Currently in Canberra and it played up again this weekend... I went to supercheap this morning and bought wd40 and struggled away in the car park to lube the boost solenoid... Didn't notice any difference... Honestly feels like a non turbo car lately...

See if it plays up on the way home tomorrow... I am thinking either the wastegate flappy isn't sealing at all or the boost solenoid thing is wide open...

Might have to pull it off when I get home and see if it operates... There is modified rear housing on eBay which tends to imply the factory flapper is s**t... And turbosmart direct replacement actuators as they say that the original is s**t...

Will work through it... Thank God I have a hoist in the shed now...



Cheers,
Tim

You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.

Modified housing could also possible be just ported to solve overboost

lucky buggar... I want a hoist too.. actually i rebuilt a couple of falcon/territory columns for a car yard in ozzy park and he said he'd source me a hoist too.. so fingers crossed.

There isn't anything wrong with the design of the rear housing.. just that the wastgate itself isn't big enough if you run monster boost to dump the excess pressure quickly.
I took my rear housing off to mod my wastegate (bore it out to 37mm) and discovered it'd already been done. always good to find that sorta thing.

LIKEY LIKE LIKE. Years away from FORDMODS off and on, and these guys just keep rocking it.

Thankyou Mr Fiend, but I didn't make that first quote. My wife would, but it would drip with sarcasm if she'd said it.

Frank,

Discoveries!

The boost control solenoid on the turbo works as intended... With no supply it breathes as normal, as if it wasn't even in the circuit... When powered it will cut all boost to the turbo... I jammed a test light up the plug and anything, any gear, you go over about half throttle the PCM turns the solenoid onto 100%... So it's almost as though it's trying to prevent a boost cut when you need it the most...

I then proceeded to check the manifold bolts... Couple of semi loose ones in the head... Two studs and nuts completely missing from the turbo flange... Thought this might be doing it... Can't hear any hug exhaust leaks but...

Then took it for a run... Hooked up the Autel scanner and got into live data to see how much boost I was getting...

The PCM works in absolute pressure... Which makes normal atmosphere register a 14.7psi... Absolute full vacuum registers a 0psi reading... So assuming these things run a 6 or 7psi wastegate spring, plus at full throttle the computer locks the wastegate out altogether, I should see like 20psi right?

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The video shows the two graphs... Top one is the manifold so runs at about 6psi... You open the throttle and it matches the bottom one signalling manifold vacuum is lost (WOT)... Then you see the turbo produce about 1 to 1.5psi of boost... And just as you drop the throttle (because you've run out of road) you see it spike to 20psi which would be the BOV opening to drop the pressure...

All in all I have 1psi of boost... It isn't leaking before the throttle body because I do get the spike as the TB closes... It isn't leaking after the throttle body because I have manifold vac... The wastegate isn't failing open as the PCM said because half throttle it locks the wastegate out and I have proved the entire circuit works, even still it should have a 6 or 7psi spring judging by the turbosmart unit that is a factory replacement and comes with a 7psi spring...

It's basically like the turbo cannot produce any boost at all... Or the wastegate is indeed open completely independent of the actuator... Thoughts?

Cheers,
Tim