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| roughredXR6 |
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The 122 is a bit bigger than the 112 yeah.
The bypass does need to be big enough to recirc air, but at part throttle the manifold and blower will be under vacuum, so there isn't really a lot of air anyway. Pretty sure eaton have got their sizing right, so it's a good guide i guess. The m122 is the blower used on the Mustang GT500. The standard reg will be fune with a pd setup as there's no need to feed boost into it. Using the ecu to add fuel is a much better option anyway imo. The 750 doesn't have dedicated water/meth control, however you can create your own 3D map in the software and use it to control an output. So it has the ability. You can also add extra IO channels to the elite ecu's. They do an IO expander which connects via can, but then you need that for the wideband controller. Unless you use an aftermarket wbo2 controller and use an input...... This is why I'm leaning towards the E1500 instead of the E750. Not sure about long term fuel trim on the 750. I don't recall any mention of it, but doesn't mean it isn't there.
_________________ Ported ED XR6 head shaved too much, AU gasket, custom Crow Cam, Pacemaker 4480's, 5-speed conversion, billet aluminium flywheel, GT clutch, T.I. Performance J3 chip, custom water/methanol injection, modified BA throttle body. Paint&Panel by Barbed Wire Fence. |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Will a std reg work on boost? I know a rising rate fmu probably isn't required, but I didn't think a std job worked above atmosphere... My kit has an alloy rail so I'll need to run an external unit... Gonna need some advice of someone in the know as to what I need but... Replace the fuel rail with one from an AU or BA and use the XR6 Turbo fuel reg. Works perfectly. |
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| TimmyA |
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{USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: Will a std reg work on boost? I know a rising rate fmu probably isn't required, but I didn't think a std job worked above atmosphere... My kit has an alloy rail so I'll need to run an external unit... Gonna need some advice of someone in the know as to what I need but... Replace the fuel rail with one from an AU or BA and use the XR6 Turbo fuel reg. Works perfectly. Ahhhhh... I'll suss out what is on my turbo... See if the manifold it came with, I can turf the alloy rail and fit a std steel rail... Then all the fuel system requires no mods... I like this... Cheers for the ideas and feedback dudes...
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| TimmyA |
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Troy...
You kicking around and have an opinion on the quarterhorse? It reads good on the moates page... Being able to be left in the computer and tuned on the fly seems advantageous... Means basically no wiring changes... Knock control... Immobiliser... Sequential injection... I'm guessing still keeps the run hot strategy? Long term fuel trim? Only thing is I'd definitely need a wide band gauge now,guessing if I got one with an output I might be able to program that to the computer to replace the narrow band... What software do you recommend? And for rookies like myself, if I get the binary editor I can read the computer, load that onto the chip and start there? The worst part with the factory computer is on a cold start it hardly wants to fire... Barely idles for 5 seconds and then runs normally... No codes... Changed the main sensors with spares anyway, fuel pressure reg with new, and tried 3 computers... So maybe a cold start strategy from scratch is needed... I'd get this with a haltech... Decisions decisions... Cheers, Tim
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| TROYMAN |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Troy... You kicking around and have an opinion on the quarterhorse? It reads good on the moates page... Being able to be left in the computer and tuned on the fly seems advantageous... Means basically no wiring changes... Knock control... Immobiliser... Sequential injection... I'm guessing still keeps the run hot strategy? Long term fuel trim? Only thing is I'd definitely need a wide band gauge now,guessing if I got one with an output I might be able to program that to the computer to replace the narrow band... What software do you recommend? And for rookies like myself, if I get the binary editor I can read the computer, load that onto the chip and start there? The worst part with the factory computer is on a cold start it hardly wants to fire... Barely idles for 5 seconds and then runs normally... No codes... Changed the main sensors with spares anyway, fuel pressure reg with new, and tried 3 computers... So maybe a cold start strategy from scratch is needed... I'd get this with a haltech... Decisions decisions... Cheers, Tim For tuning the factory ecu yourself I say the quarterhorse is the best j3 option. I use binery editor as for me its easy to use and understand. You can use tuner pro if thats your preference... the quarterhorse allowes you to change or modify almost all the parameters that the ecu has.. but it does depend though on who created the strategy. Some have allowed more than others.. The ecu still runs all its functions like closed loop. Short and long term fuel trims ect.. unless you disable them. I have considered going aftermarket ecu myself so I have a ecu that has Boost reference but im still on the fence On that decision. As even though the factory ecu dont have boost reference maps it still works on load so its still fully tunable .. and I think the factory closed loop functions are more precise and work much better than whats available from aftermarket ecu s. And I think thats because most aftermarket ecu s are purely performance orientated and not alot of time is spent on there closed loop functions.. |
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| TimmyA |
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Progress, as always, is slow but steady...
Changing a few fabrication elements of this kit... The entire unit was designed to hang off the head previously... Lot of weight squashing the bottom of the intake gasket... So I have repurposed the BBM support brackets to hold the blower up... I have modified the dipstick to fit the new manifold which turned out pretty factory looking considering... I have made a mounting plate for the larger bypass valve supplied to me by Sprintex (one built into the kit wasn't big enough according to them)... Had it alloy welded into place... Made a blanking plate for the old bypass hole with threads holes for barbs for the vac connections... Already threaded holes on the boosted side for map and fuel reg... made the bracket to hold the extra idler pulley... The original one was designed to work with an EL compressor and I have made one to work with the Au compressor, modified the mounting plate to allow for the bracket... Have drilled the gearbox case on the blower and tapped for an oil sight glass because Sprintex informed me measuring the volume of oil in my orientation was no ideal, it need to be sighted... I have the wiring in the post somewhere on its way here... I have a plan for the 6x LS1 coils... I need to remake the snout support bracket to bolt to my new idler bracket... Need to finish the other end of the bypass piping... Need to make some alterations to the rocker cover to allow mounting of the coils and tidy it up a bit... Attached are some older photos of when I first got it mocked up... Cheers, Tim You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
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| roughredXR6 |
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Progressing nicely Tim. I totally agree that the manifold needs to be supported properly, not only for the added weight but also due to the load of the drive belt. I'm glad you fixed that up.
Keep us posted on progress. I'm keen to see how it turns out. I've got my setup sorted mechanically. Purchased a Link Fury ecu last week and will be spending this weekend deciding how I am going to wire it in. Fun times ahead.
_________________ Ported ED XR6 head shaved too much, AU gasket, custom Crow Cam, Pacemaker 4480's, 5-speed conversion, billet aluminium flywheel, GT clutch, T.I. Performance J3 chip, custom water/methanol injection, modified BA throttle body. Paint&Panel by Barbed Wire Fence. |
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| TimmyA |
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Troy/and Jay is it?
Engine mounts... Troy, was it you who I saw run the adjustable bolt and swaybar rubber? What was the end verdict? Jay did you upgrade yours? I've read blower torque plays havoc on them and there isn't much that is "aftermarket" for the boxcar K frame... Yeah It's pretty rigid now and once I anchor the snout support back to the idler bracket I made up from 10mm steel plate it'll prevent all the drive belt pull well and truly... Jay have you run yours before to know what diameter pulley is giving you what boost? I have two pulleys which aren't far different I am not sure which way to go or if it can be worked out or not, or you put the big one on it and see, and if it can take more then go the bigger one... That's my thoughts for now... I have my spare AUII wiring looms coming so I'll be starting to do my wiring soon, ordering the elite 750 with my tax return... Still gotta get: Some gauges for an idea what's going on... Fuel pump FPR Thinking one of the bored thottle bodies Fuel pressure switch for the rail/haltech Other 4 coils + bracket Fuel lines and adaptors and stuff So not far... Most of the fab I had to do is all but done so wiring soon... What it to be original looking, engine loom, computer loom, square black plug on manifold... Should work I feel... Cheers, Tim
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| roughredXR6 |
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Yes it's Jay.
I have run mine, but only on a 100% stock standard el, just to check for any issues like belt alignment etc. Ended up having to brace my idler setup quite a bit as the 10mm aluminium plate was twisting under load. Fitted a front plate and a rear strut back to the manifold support, so it's rock solid now. I don't have any other pulleys or anything for mine. I can tell you from when I had it on the el motor that it will hit 10psi with a stab of the throttle from 800rpm. Fuel cut and stock valve springs meant I couldn't go much past 10psi, but at a guess with the stock 3" pulley and 2L/rev blower capacity I will possibly be looking at close to 20psi, give or take. Engine mount wise, I have a set of billet aluminium mounts I bought a few years ago from my last engine which I'm planing on using. They are the poly bushed/pin type, like the old Tuff Mounts. I didn't end up getting the Haltech for mine. I ended up buying a Link G4+ Fury. Top bit of gear with 8 injection and 6 ignition outputs, built in wideband controller (which means onboard autotune, yay), heaps of configurable inputs and outputs, and the tuning software is much easir to work with (for me at least). If you haven't already, check out the Fury. I didn't think I'd need the extra I/O's, but I've ended up using all 10 aux outputs plus both spare injector outputs and two of the 3 spare ignition outputs. I've also set it up to control the water injection pump and set up a 4D map to control the solenoid, so i have a fully mappable water injection system. Trick as! I'm in the process of making up a complete stand alone loom for the Link ecu, so I can keep the stock ecu and wiring in place for if I need to remove the supercharger, or if I want to go auto trans. Also means the data lines for the dash and air con control are still operational. Speedo and tacho will be wired through the Link so I can use the cool gauge sweep on power up feature, and calibration if required. I'm only going to run two extra gauges, manifold temp and boost. As for throttle body, general rule for P.D. supercharger is that the throttle body is basically now just a restriction. Sizing for response no longer matters, you just use the biggest throttle you can fit. At WOT the supercharger is the throttle, any restriction before it will hurt performance. Getting there slowly. Don't want to rush it, want to get it right and reliable. Jay.
_________________ Ported ED XR6 head shaved too much, AU gasket, custom Crow Cam, Pacemaker 4480's, 5-speed conversion, billet aluminium flywheel, GT clutch, T.I. Performance J3 chip, custom water/methanol injection, modified BA throttle body. Paint&Panel by Barbed Wire Fence. |
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| TimmyA |
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20 psi
 ??? I think my big pulley is 8 and not sure what the smaller one will yield... Got a photo of your engine mounts? Yours is in a ef/el isn't it? Damn ya! I had finally sold on the e750 and now I'm back to not knowing... I don't know what the difference between the middle 3 models is but... They don't sell them real well... 999 motorsport has the storm at 1650, and the fury and xtreme both at 2085... They all seem much the same but... Half tempted to get the fury or xtreme but, run a BA pedal and e-throttle body and use the cruise control in the ecu and throw the throttle cable and cruise module but... I'll download the software for a look if it's free and talk to my tuner about it... See if he is interested in it... Wouldn't be bad because I can run the BA turbo map/temp sensor, run the knock sensor... Works out dear to me but, by the time you add the looms, wideband, it gets up there... What's the resistor ballast packs for and do I need them? Cheers, Tim
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| roughredXR6 |
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The Fury has built in wideband controller, so you only need to buy a sensor and loom side plug. You can also use a narrow band sensor if you want, but why would you lol.
Resistors aren't needed if you are using high impedance injectors. I am running mine wasted spark and using the EF/AU1 coilpack and an igniter module.(I've found some cheaper ones which are identical to the bosch & Link ones). Couldn't justify the cost of individual coils. All of the Ford sensors and triggers will work with the Link's, although I've fitted a fast response intake temp sensor in the plenum. I'm also going to use the boxcar style thermostat housing so i can run duel coolant temp sensors, one for EEC/dash and one for the Fury. (You can piggyback sensors, but I prefer to go this way). Using the B or F series TMAP sensor is a good idea, but I went with the good old GM style MAP sensor, just because I can mount it remotely. The looms aren't that expensive really. You'll have to buy them no matter which ecu you choose. You seem quite capable of wiring it in so I can't see that being an issue. Definitely download the tuning program! You need to open a base map to see anything, just open the Fury sample map. (Click on open and it brings up all the base maps which come with the program when you download it.) Another thing I thought was cool is that the logging and live data etc is all in the one program, and the help menu is awesome! Have a read through it. I'll post a couple of pics and tag you on FB. Too much stuffing around to downsize them for here. I'm lazy haha. Check your notifications. Jay.
_________________ Ported ED XR6 head shaved too much, AU gasket, custom Crow Cam, Pacemaker 4480's, 5-speed conversion, billet aluminium flywheel, GT clutch, T.I. Performance J3 chip, custom water/methanol injection, modified BA throttle body. Paint&Panel by Barbed Wire Fence. |
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| TimmyA |
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Troy,
I remember once you had the exact turn on points for the cooling strategy up as read from the eec... I'll be able to find them but... I thought I knew how the cooling strategy roughly work with respect to ac, discharge pressure and discharge temp; but after reading the factory manual I realise I may now have no idea... Can you see how this strategy works in your eec? Or it's hidden too deep? If you're not sure then I'll have to try and simulate it in order to understand what goes on, which may be easier said than done... Cheers, Tim
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| TROYMAN |
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tim
it doesnt seem to have any info that i can find in the tune, i say it would be there somewhere, but who ever wrote the strategy probably left it out seeing it as something most wouldn't use. i know normally when the a/c is on, wether the engine temp was warm enough or not the fans would be on low speed, then if a/c compressor temp gets to high or gas pressure to high the fans run high speed, unfortunately i dont know what temp or pressure the fans are triggered, also if one of those sensors fail the a/c is not activated, as in my case the high pressure sensor had failed and the a/c stopped, but un plug that sensor and the ecu see's open curcuit and allows the system to operate but now runs fans at full speed when a/c is on as a fail safe. |
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| TROYMAN |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Troy/and Jay is it? Engine mounts... Troy, was it you who I saw run the adjustable bolt and swaybar rubber? What was the end verdict? Jay did you upgrade yours? I've read blower torque plays havoc on them and there isn't much that is "aftermarket" for the boxcar K frame... Cheers, Tim tim yes in my ed i made up a bracket from the top of the engine mount to the bottom bolt using a swaybar link pin rubber in between the 2 brackets to stop it from tearing engine mounts, with that set up it still allowed the engine to move a little but limit the lift under load and it worked perfect... Attachment: DSC01511.JPG Attachment: DSC01514.JPG
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| TimmyA |
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Cheers troy!
That design never had any faults? I like it... Seems simple... Seems like it'd work... Can't complain... You just had the one on the back side? I'll use some spare sensors plugged into my ac system and see what the live data reads as I heat and add pressure... Cheers, Tim
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