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TimmyA |
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Everything was cleaned spotless... The head was skimmed and come out a near new shiney piece of aluminium... It had about 4 thou off it from memory which removed all imperfections accross the surface... I find it hard to believe a solid cast iron block has developed an imperfection in the machined surface... And like Ash said, what could be wrong with an MLS gasket? The block was cleaned and sanded back with fine wet and dry to near a shine... cleaned with method so all traces evaporated... Head was skimmed by stone, not cutter so has no grooves in it... And a copper gasket sealant was used all round which we have used for everything from previous head gaskets to every other gasket and never had a leak... The idea of chasing this MLS gasket through Ford was so this never happened... My old man is a Ford mechanic of 30 years so it isn't as if we have no idea... Done this dozens of times between us... First time with an AU head and MLS gasket though...
Just had a look at the old head and it has the same looking jacket arrangement... ED-EL-AU all have the same holes for the sake of this issue... There is three oil feeds to the head... One above the tensioner which is...in front of exhaust port 1... Then there is two on the intake side of the head... One that feeds up the head bolt between two and three and one up the head bolt between four and five... They are only a mere quarter inch between the water and oil holes... The water holes do not pass through the head gasket... As such if it leaked oil between the layers it wouldn't come out in the water, it'd be into a cylinder outside the block... So it has to be leaking either over or under the gasket... Other option is the head is cracked... How likely is this? Seems hard to believe when it is only a tiny hole drilled from overhead gear bolt to head bolt... Wouldn't to be too much material around the feed to crack through to water surely? After studying different parts from all makes I can't see anything obvious... Only way to find out now is to take the head back off... If I can't see any obvious signs I'll have to get the head crack tested... If the head is cracked I will be p****d... Cheers, Tim
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TROYMAN |
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did you use new head bolts??
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TimmyA |
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Yep of course... Torque to Yield... Only I did different and realised afterward was the AU spec varied slightly to the ED spec... I had them tightened already and couldn't undo them and re-do them again...
ED spec which I knew off the top of my head... 40Nm plus 90 Then later on I found the AU spec was 30Nm plus 120 and I couldn't see it being overall that much different... I didn't which part determined which spec you needed to use so I left them in done to 40+90... You think that may have made a difference Troy? I order ED headbolts... unsure if they vary... Cheers, Tim
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TROYMAN |
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i dont think it would make a difference, 40+90deg and 30+120deg would probably end up being much the same at the end..
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TimmyA |
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Nor did I... Hence why i didn't bother changing it...
Going to pull it off this weekend and check the trueness of the block... If I find there is a low spot where oil feeds go into the head I'll have no option but to run an EF head gasket... The slightly thicker softer design may have been what fixed this problem in the past... It may be out of spec for the MLS gasket... And I am not getting the block skimmed just yet... One day when I do a complete rebuild on it I'll do that... Just throwing ideas around at the moment... If it measures true and there is no apparent visible cause for this then I'll have to look at getting the head crack tested... But I honnestly wouldn't oil would leak into water in a head... Water into port I can understand... But the tiny skinny oil hole in the water ways? Doesn't seem possible... Cheers, Tim
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TimmyA |
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It has begun...
I have taken tomorrow off work... Got a meeting with my other job I should attend so doing that and then the car for the rest of the day... started tonight... leads, hoses, wiring, P/S pump all that is removed... tomorrow is to get under the car and undo the fuel lines and back BBM bolt... BBM is staying on the head when it comes off... Hopefully I can save the intake gasket... Let the oil drain out of the top of the motor tonight and undo the oil related stuff tomorrow... I found that coil locally Troy... Someone had one they didn't know of... Was $60 retail but I got it for less than that... Got it for about $43 I think... So Good price... Holes are closer together... Will modify my bracket yet again... Wire in the knock sensor... I will connect it later if I have pinging still... At least it'll be there then... We are repairing a genuine dizzy... the top bush is still available through Ford... so replacing that one and then we have had a machinist drill the bottom of the body to take another bush in the there... He is parting the new bush in half as it is only narrow... So this will make my loose dizzy as new... And will now have two replaceable bushes for the future... So Not sure on the cost... But will be done tomorrow so will get pics... So inspections and make a decision what and why it happened tomorrow... Cheers, Tim
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TimmyA |
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Nearly done!
But... Couldn't find the Ford specified 3thou of an inch deviation in the block surface anywhere... Head is true... block is true... But on the oil feed to the rocker gear between 2&3 there was oil between the plastic/rubber coating on the head gasket (the black stuff) and the actual steel... It looked like a blister and when I squeezed it oil ran out of it... It is as though the oil got between the steel and the coating on it and travelled that quarter inch across and the blistered once over the top of the water jacket in the block... Really strange So cleaned everything again and polished a couple of minor marks out of the block... New MLS head gasket a different and more expensive gasket sealer... Not they we have ever had issues with the other one, but the auto store didn't have any this time around... Reassembled it and dialled the cam in again... Proved the VCT phaser works by using a drill on the oil pump... Rebuilt the dizzy... It now has a new upper bush and the bottom has been machined to take another bush the same as the top, now the shaft doesn't run straight in the aluminium housing anymore... Nice and tight with no shaft play... Wired in the knock sensor... The engine bay part is done anyway... Lengthened the wiring for the new coil instead of having another plug where you can introduce a bad connection... Looks good on there... I removed the non essential earth as you seen in the last photos of it... The capacitor is now under the bottom bolt and the knock sensor is under the top bolt... After me just testing the phaser... I have found it moved 12deg at the crank and therefore 6 at the cam... As opposed to Ford's manual which was 10 cam and 20 crank... Which sounded too much for me to believe... 6/12 is a better sounding quantity... Getting there... Lunch... And then it'll nearly be ready to start again... Cheers, Tim
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ToranaGuy |
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Nice work thus far dude! Sounds like the gasket was faulty?
I bought a MLS gasket & some other bits to redo my head gasket, have been wondering about using the VHT copper gasket cement on it or not? Never used a MLS head gasket before..... Interesting in the VCT movement! Hope all goes well in assembly & you get it running properly again! Cheers ToranaGuy
_________________ I am the ToranaGuy!|74 Lh Torana Turbo|78 Hz PanelVan|86 Mighty Boy Ute|93 EB2 Ghia,GT Mockup,5spd,LPGI,Full Leather|2 x EB Xr8 5spd's|{DESCRIPTION}|{DESCRIPTION}|{DESCRIPTION}| |
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TimmyA |
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hey jay,
not sure... Or something got caught between the steel layers and allowed oil transfer between the film of plastic and the steel... I'll get a pic of the now popped 'blister' and people can see what they think of it... That vht stuff was what i used last time and what dad has used since day 1... Never had an issue... We coouldn't get any locally in time so we got an acl branded one call hylomar or something of that nature... It was less in the can and dearer so figured we couldn't be going backwards... Hopefully... Is going now... Time will tell i guess... Just gotta flush out the cooling system now... Run it for a week and flush again and then put new coolant in it... Cheers, tim
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ToranaGuy |
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Cool. I know the Hylomar stuff, we sell a can or two of it a week at work, but 99% of the time it's to tradies. I better get schooled up on what I need when the time comes to use my MLS gasket, which will probably end up on the spare 4.0 I have in the shed, when I rebuild it.
Cheers ToranaGuy
_________________ I am the ToranaGuy!|74 Lh Torana Turbo|78 Hz PanelVan|86 Mighty Boy Ute|93 EB2 Ghia,GT Mockup,5spd,LPGI,Full Leather|2 x EB Xr8 5spd's|{DESCRIPTION}|{DESCRIPTION}|{DESCRIPTION}| |
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TimmyA |
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ah yeah cool... Heard any feedback on it?
It's not hard... Just prearation is the key... Getting the head skimmed true... Checking the block for trueness... Making sure there is no gouges... We used wet and dry and inox just to clean up the surface... Cleaned it with carbie cleaner then and then one final wipe with metho so there is no oily residues at all... Same with the head... Once over with metho... Lint free coth... As i said preparation is the key... Cleaning your surfaces so everything adheres to it... Don't forget to replace the timing case rubber too while you have the head off and seal the corners of it with something so you don't find yourself a leak there... Cheers, tim
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ToranaGuy |
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Most of the tradies love the stuff.
In regards to engine rebuilds, I've rebuilt a few, always with success, but never used a MLS gasket for a head gasket before. Cheers ToranaGuy
_________________ I am the ToranaGuy!|74 Lh Torana Turbo|78 Hz PanelVan|86 Mighty Boy Ute|93 EB2 Ghia,GT Mockup,5spd,LPGI,Full Leather|2 x EB Xr8 5spd's|{DESCRIPTION}|{DESCRIPTION}|{DESCRIPTION}| |
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TimmyA |
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I've never done a bottom end... Done quite a few top ends in these cars... My first go of an MLS too... And everyone's opinion is you just bolt them up and they work... So shame about my first go... Esp when it appears to be a gasket malfunction... Well... At least I hope anyway...
Cheers, Tim
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TimmyA |
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decided I'd like one of these intakes... no edges for the air to catch on the way through... All one piece... Apparently this guy is in Bendigo that makes them... Calls his company ice fibres... I can't find them anywhere except for some info here: http://www.boostedfalcon.net/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=9213 Can anybody hook me up with some info? Esp you southern brothers? Cheers, Tim
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ToranaGuy |
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Got the beast running again?
That intake looks pretty good. If you were crafty with exhaust pipe, welder & die grinder you could do the same. Cheers ToranaGuy
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