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| TimmyA |
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Hey Boys an girls...
Long time no see... Car has been running pretty good... I had the fuel pump slowly getting noisier there the other day... Until one morning it was really noisy and cut out on me on the way to work at 7.15 in the morning... Such is life... Flat towed home and swapped it with a same style aftermarket unit that arvo... Query is, this fuel pump is as noisy as the other one already... So thinking it may come out and go back to the shop for a refund... Now, is there a factory swap genuine bosch unit or something? If not, which is the pick of the 040 and 023 (keeping in mind I'll probably never ever have the money to turbo charge it)? And how do you retrofit them (Ie is it massively hard and run the risk of being unreliable)? Or of course... Any other other alternatives? Cheers, Tim
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| TimmyA |
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Ahhh... Ok then...
I feared that with trying to retrofit a pump... Getting it to the right place in the cradle so that it would pick up normally all the way down to the last few litres... Maybe these Walbro's are the answer to my issues... I suppose most of the turbo boys run surge tanks and inline pumps and trying to get one of those in the cradle wouldn't be exactly practical... Cheers, Tim
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| SLO247 |
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What brand pump did you get? I've used a Goss standard replacement with no problems.
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| bry40l |
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i used a "fuel miser" from repco with no issues, worked for the 12 months i used the car. wasnt noisey either
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| TimmyA |
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this started off silent... Then in a few days was noisy again... It had no visible brand i could remember seeing on the box...
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| TimmyA |
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Thanks uniacidz...
Yeah very valid reasons and makes a lot of sense... I'll stay away from that then... These Walbro's will come with a sock? Do they vary? They list a Subaru one and a Mitsubishi one and that? Or is it just an advertising gimmick? Cheers, Tim
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| ToranaGuy |
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Did you change your fuel filter when you changed the pump? Was there any crap in the tank? You would have to stick your hand in there & feel the bottom of the tank to see if there is, as it settles.
I've got a fuel miser pump from Repco in my EB Ghia atm, been in there a while now, no issues, nice & quiet. Speaking of that, I'm about due to change the fuel filter again as part of regular servicing. Cheers ToranaGuy
_________________ I am the ToranaGuy!|74 Lh Torana Turbo|78 Hz PanelVan|86 Mighty Boy Ute|93 EB2 Ghia,GT Mockup,5spd,LPGI,Full Leather|2 x EB Xr8 5spd's|{DESCRIPTION}|{DESCRIPTION}|{DESCRIPTION}| |
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| TimmyA |
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The pump got the new sock and all that on it... So I couldn't see how crud in the tank could cause an issue to it?
Fuel filter was changed last service which would have been all of less than 1000km ago... I tried to blow through it then and it was blocked so I fitted a new one... Cheers, Tim
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| ToranaGuy |
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Even with a new sock on the pump, you would be surprised what get's thru that & thru the pump, into the high pressure filter that is mounted on the chassis rail! Otherwise we would never need to change that filter.
You should always change the fuel filter when you fit a new pump, I think it's a warranty term & condition for fuel miser pumps you must change the filter, otherwise no warranty claim. Something to do with blocked filters working the pump harder, causing the pump motor to labor & burn out. Cheers ToranaGuy
_________________ I am the ToranaGuy!|74 Lh Torana Turbo|78 Hz PanelVan|86 Mighty Boy Ute|93 EB2 Ghia,GT Mockup,5spd,LPGI,Full Leather|2 x EB Xr8 5spd's|{DESCRIPTION}|{DESCRIPTION}|{DESCRIPTION}| |
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| TimmyA |
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Ahhh... So what's the suggestion?
Pull the tank out of the car... Drain and strain the fuel and pressure wash the tank out to get all the dirt out and then leave it dry out? or...? Seems like a rather lengthy and difficult process... Considering I'd not long put 30 or 40 litres of juice in the tank when it died, I could even see the bottom... I thought the sock was a a*** filter that took out everything the pump couldn't fit through the impeller and then the fuel filter took out everything the injector couldn't pass... And obviously a larger chunk of dirt will go through the pump than would through the injector, hence the need to change to the filter on the rail, and it made no sense to put the fine filter before the pump otherwise you'd be taking out the pump to check and change the filter each service... I understand the warranty thing... And yes continual high pressure does lead the pump to burn out... Hence I blow through the fuel filter every service and when it gets hard to blow through then it gets replaced... I would most certainly not think that filter would be blocked again already... Not with 95 and high fuel only ever being run in it... Cheers, Tim
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| ToranaGuy |
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You might be surprised how much dirt you get when you fill up, especially if it's close to when the servo's tanks were filled or right when they are getting filled. There is dirt & rust in their underground tanks!
The strainer filter at the bottom of the pump get's washed with the moving of fuel every time you go around a corner, so they don't really clog up, and your on the money in regards to the particle size, smaller particles can pass thru without many ill effects, however larger particles would jam the pump up & burn it out. You really do need to empty the tank, straining the fuel from it as you empty it, then remove the tank from the car, wash it out, with say metho/kero, and make sure there isn't too much in the bottom of the tank, then refit & refil it. That's how I do it. After winter I'll be doing it again on the Eb Ghia, by then it will have been a year give or take since I cleaned the tank out. Cheers ToranaGuy
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| TimmyA |
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Cool... Well I've never heard of anybody pulling their fuel tank out annually to clean it... Fairly ambitious task that...
It has another pump in it now... Will check the fuel filter tomorrow and make sure I can still blow through it... On a side note... People running over sized sway bars, what's the pick of them? And how big is good without going stupid (if you can go stupid with a swaybar?) Also is adjustable worth the effort? And are they hard to know where is optimal setting? Cheers, Tim
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| BenJ |
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Hey Timmy.
I have had a 27mm bar and now run a 30mm bar. There is a noticeable difference jumping from 27mm to 30mm. I would say there is as much improvement going from std to 27mm as there is then going to 30mm. I have a Selbys front bar, but Snap runs a Whiteline one. I picked mine up cheap 2nd hand but would have bought a Whiteline one new. The 30mm bar does stiffen the whole front end up as it adds to the spring rate when only one wheel compresses. Get a matching rear bar too, and you will get a really good improvement overall. The week point in my handling now is the cheap tires I am running. I want to put on better quality/sticky tires this time round to take advantage of the mechanical improvements. Cheers BenJ
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| snap0964 |
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Tim, Have search of whiteline and similar words - plenty on the subject. For a sedan, if you go 30mm front, matching rear will be 22mm from memory - check the whiteline lineup.
When I finally cbf, I'll fabricate ball joint links - less slop than std swaybar links - whiteline have posted some examples on here. CJH has posted a few times his adjustable front bar.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| TROYMAN |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Tim, Have search of whiteline and similar words - plenty on the subject. For a sedan, if you go 30mm front, matching rear will be 22mm from memory - check the whiteline lineup. When I finally cbf, I'll fabricate ball joint links - less slop than std swaybar links - whiteline have posted some examples on here. CJH has posted a few times his adjustable front bar. speaking of balljoint links, this what ive done on the rear whiteline bar to get rid of there slack design. 
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