|
| TimmyA |
|
|||
|
Ahhh... The std links didn't cross my mind... So when you say ball joint links, you use rose joints?
You guys are always a wealth of information... One day I'll have a crack at this no doubt... Just curious... I've found a VCT donk for the right money that needs a rebuild (this will be my slow upcoming project)... If one were to modify the AU sump for the E series K frame, not great amount of oil capacity would be lost by the looks and general browsing over past posts... And while I had it off it'd get a fitting put in it for a turbo drain just in case one day i get really bored... What size would this be? All I can find is one post saying 1/2" BSP is a good size? Not that I like taping BSP threads because knowing how to far to run the tap in can be painful... Are NPT threads just as suitable? Or they don't seal up properly? Cheers, Tim
_________________ {DESCRIPTION} |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| TROYMAN |
|
||
|
{USERNAME} wrote: Ahhh... The std links didn't cross my mind... So when you say ball joint links, you use rose joints? You guys are always a wealth of information... One day I'll have a crack at this no doubt... Just curious... I've found a VCT donk for the right money that needs a rebuild (this will be my slow upcoming project)... If one were to modify the AU sump for the E series K frame, not great amount of oil capacity would be lost by the looks and general browsing over past posts... And while I had it off it'd get a fitting put in it for a turbo drain just in case one day i get really bored... What size would this be? All I can find is one post saying 1/2" BSP is a good size? Not that I like taping BSP threads because knowing how to far to run the tap in can be painful... Are NPT threads just as suitable? Or they don't seal up properly? Cheers, Tim you dont really need to modify the au sump in ed. you can do as i have and modify the square bar across the front of the k frame or the au engine can still fit with minor grinding of the raised cast section of the sump... 1/2 bsp is whats tapped into my sump and the fitting is tapered, afaik npt and bsp are the same, |
||
| Top | |
||
| TimmyA |
|
|||
|
Ah,
Only for the sake of the "structural defects" thing that apparently needs to be engineered... :/ Stupid laws... So the AU sump is a near fit anyway? Not much to need to remove to ensure a clearance at the sub frame? As far as I was aware BSP is the common tapered pipe thread while NPT was the less common straight cut pip thread... Usually used in bulkhead fittings and that as a nut will screw all the way down while you can then screw a fitting on after the nut... Sort of like hydraulic fittings... I suppose though, there is always the risk that the fitting you screw in wont line up where you want it to go... Sort of one of those, half a turn not tight enough type things... Cheers, Tim
_________________ {DESCRIPTION} |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| TROYMAN |
|
||
|
{USERNAME} wrote: Ah, Only for the sake of the "structural defects" thing that apparently needs to be engineered... :/ Stupid laws... So the AU sump is a near fit anyway? Not much to need to remove to ensure a clearance at the sub frame? As far as I was aware BSP is the common tapered pipe thread while NPT was the less common straight cut pip thread... Usually used in bulkhead fittings and that as a nut will screw all the way down while you can then screw a fitting on after the nut... Sort of like hydraulic fittings... I suppose though, there is always the risk that the fitting you screw in wont line up where you want it to go... Sort of one of those, half a turn not tight enough type things... Cheers, Tim yes the au sump is a near fit in ea/ed unlike ef/el. i think your right. im pretty sure the thread in bsp and npt is the same pitch but bsp fittings are tapered. |
||
| Top | |
||
| TimmyA |
|
|||
|
Oh... I wasn't aware that EF/EL had a massive different K frame? There you go then, learn something everyday...
Thanks for that Troy...
_________________ {DESCRIPTION} |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| TimmyA |
|
|||
|
Hey anybody running a full set of lock nuts?
IE all 20 nuts are lock nuts? I imported a Gorilla set from the US of A and they don't blow my hair back... Sometimes the grab on the stud and are excessively stiff to get off... Just think they are a sub standard quality nut... I looked around ebay the likes to no avail... Wondering if anybody can put me in touch with a brand or similar of decent quality reliable lock nuts, ones that wont strip the key or the nut due to poor design? This isn't a topic I've ever seen on here before so am curious to see what arises... Cheers, Tim
_________________ {DESCRIPTION} |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| TimmyA |
|
|||
|
My set and my brother's set do the same thing... the very tip where it tapers to a point seems to "crimp" in on the stud and then it is stiff all the way off and needs a tap run up them to make them free again... Then they do it again... :/ So concluded that maybe they're a bit dodgy...
Same here... That's why I bought Gorilla... I'll keep poking around the world wide web and see what is available... Cheers, Tim
_________________ {DESCRIPTION} |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| 89S-PACK |
|
|||
|
when i fitted a au motor to my eb.
all i did was grind and file the front fins off the sump cleared well enough with no structrual mods at all. it was closer than the std tin sump but i had enough clearance anyways. and when i removed it last night, there wasnt any evidence of rubbling. it was in there for around 30thousand k's before i used it to edit the look of a focus |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| TimmyA |
|
|||
|
What engine mounts are used to achieve this? Do you run AU ones? Or you can only run ED ones?
Are the fancy looking EF/EL ones really any better? Thanks guys...
_________________ {DESCRIPTION} |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| TROYMAN |
|
||
|
use ea/ed ones they bolt up the same..
|
||
| Top | |
||
| 89S-PACK |
|
|||
|
{USERNAME} wrote: What engine mounts are used to achieve this? Do you run AU ones? Or you can only run ED ones? Are the fancy looking EF/EL ones really any better? Thanks guys... i used my factory eb mounts. bolted up in the same spot with no problems only difference in bolting up is. the eb only has 3 bolts not 4 like a ef onwards do i'll look on the external hdd in a while to see if thats where my conversion pics are. only issue with the eb mounts was from my own stupidity. tore the rh one having a little too much fun in the paddock ef mounts im not sure.. but it mightnt be worth the effort to fit those as iirc they only fit ef onwards too which means swapping k frames. and having to get the sump modified to clear the k frame i know people have had the front of the sump cut of and a peice of alloy plate welded back in to clear the k frame |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| EF_wanabe |
|
||
|
i hope you go to the AU motor route
Reckon there would be much of a power gain instaling the AU motor into a stocker ? |
||
| Top | |
||
| TimmyA |
|
|||
|
Main reason is I want to build a motor... My old man is a mechanic of Nearlly 40 years since the start of his trade... He has built heaps of motors before I was old enough to remember it and be of useful assistance... So this me learning and building it up right and blue printing it... A lot of work I obviously can't do myself, like boring and honing... But will have a fair crack at most of it...
Other reason is, car blow some blue smoke nowadays if you open it up when it's cold... So this will in preparation of the ultimate fail of the original motor... The AU bottom end is stronger IIRC and has less bob weights on the crank for faster reving... As far as power goes it'll have more displacement (slightly) and more compression (unlike the 300,000 km old one in it now) so should have a little bit extra... Thanks for the thoughts guys... Certainly not fitting an EF/EL k frame... Will run good old reliable (and cheap) rubber engine mounts... Cheers, Tim
_________________ {DESCRIPTION} |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| ToranaGuy |
|
|||
|
The sump as stated is not very hard to mod to fit our Ea thru Ed car's, one thing you gotta love about the boxcars! If money was easier to come by I'd build an AU engine for my Eb Ghia, and fit the sump with a return line, as I'd love to boost it one day, after other projects are much further along the line if you know what I mean. However it's not so easy to come by (money), so I'll probably just do a quicky rebuild of my reasonably healthy EB engine I have in the shed, well healthy minus a few broken rocker arms(got another set of rockers & new lifters to go in). Soon I think I'll start hoarding bits like a full timing kit, full gasket kit, oil return bung for the sump & so on, then I'll strip it down & see if it needs to go oversize on pistons & grind the crank under or not, and acquire the required parts....
In regards to the wheel lock nuts, I run a full set of lock nuts that are more like keywayed wheel nuts, nice & long, like about 50mm or so, with a special socket on my fiance's tx5 turbo. I know NICE products sell them but can't remember the part number. I dunno who bought saas wheel nuts at repco, must have been a while ago, we supply NICE products nuts these days, which I have a few sets on various car's without any issues, both regular nuts & lock nut type, with a few different design lock nuts. It's hard to remember what lock nut key is for which car lol! Cheers ToranaGuy
_________________ I am the ToranaGuy!|74 Lh Torana Turbo|78 Hz PanelVan|86 Mighty Boy Ute|93 EB2 Ghia,GT Mockup,5spd,LPGI,Full Leather|2 x EB Xr8 5spd's|{DESCRIPTION}|{DESCRIPTION}|{DESCRIPTION}| |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| TimmyA |
|
|||
|
Only because I'm at work and don't have time to run a search, can anybody tell me quickly what actually changed between AUI - AUII - AUIII motors? Or was it more body changes than motor changes?
Cheers, Tim
_________________ {DESCRIPTION} |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Who is online |
|---|
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 17 guests |
