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| TimmyA |
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Just thinking out loud here, and someone like Troy or Snap may be better in the knowing...
Just tossing the idea around of running an AU II or AU III computer to run my VCT motor... I know while most people opt away from VCT to run a fixed cam and after market computer or tune... Because I'm so far away from help if a computer or tune plays up I want to try and retain factory parts and avoid a 6 hour trailer trip to have some program a computer to run a std VCT engine when there are computers out there to do it... I know AU II & III ran smartshield so I am guessing this was hidden in the Body Module similar to the Smartlock system of EF-AUI? Can you bypass the security in the AUII-III computer as easily as a smartlock computer? Not sure whether it'd be easier to run a full AU harness and then fit ED plugs where need be or run my existing harnesses and then make up an ED computer harness with an AU computer plug instead of mine... Not entirely sure how big of a task this works out as yet... May be way too much trouble for the benefit... Just feel some days that the EL computer lets the VCT down a bit... Cheers, Tim
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| snap0964 |
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Probably simplest and best to run it like Troy did - EL computer with Jaycar rpm switch for the VCT.
Minimal wiring mods needed, and just run MAP and coolant like E series. Jason though can disable Smartshield with his J3 chips AFAIK. Other thing is you can still throw in any EL computer and limp home (after training of course).
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| TimmyA |
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Snap,
That's what I have currently... EL XR manual computer with RPM switch... You can tell there is a mismatch though because sometimes you put your foot down and it lacks in power, than other times you put your foot down and it knows what is going on... Just wanted to compliment the VCT head and cam with a VCT computer... Run full sequential injection... The coolant fail safe mode... Coil pack... Wire doesn't scare me... Thinking of doing the whole front of the car in AU I wiring (if it varies between 1 & 2) and then changing plugs at the kick panels to mate into ED body loom... I can just change headlight plugs, and dash plugs to fit my switches... Run the AU I XR BEM to retain smartlock but also offer proper variable intermittent wipers and delay off lighting and those other niceties... It would also mean I can retain my smartlock door locks... Unless I'm missing something it doesn't seem like it would be too hard... Would probably need to run the AU coolant reservoir to allow for the AU fuse box... Run AU thermos if they fit the E series radiator... Already running EF/EL cruise and BBM gear... Rest is just changing plugs... If there was no significant performance gains between a Series I AU manual VCT computer and the later II/III computer I'll settle for a series one... Just gotta find me a AU series I XR6 VCT Manual computer... Anybody tell me how you work the catch codes out for AU? :/ I no the E series ones pretty well by now... Cheers, Tim
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| galapogos01 |
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Posts: 1139 Joined: 27th Feb 2005 Ride: Supercharged EF Fairmont Location: T.I. Performance HQ |
It's just as easy to disable Smartlock as Smartshield.
You will need to run an AU BBM top with provision for TMAP. The TMAP will also need to match the ECU revision. There are differences in the A/C control that you would need to address (AU on use an orifice tube system not a TX valve), but not insurmountable.
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| snap0964 |
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I think too you're better off running AUI gear (pre MAY99) with smartlock.
From memory, Ash had plenty of hassles running AUII/III gear with an AUI setup. It wasn't only because of the smartlock/smartshield thing - I think he did try to run later ECU's with later BEM's, and still had problems. Instrument clusters had hassles too, from memory. And of course, he had all his posts removed, so good info on this has disappeared.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| TimmyA |
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Jason,
Cheers for that, I didn't know the T-Map had revisions as such... I thought a T-Map was a T-Map... I'd run smartlock I think... Then I can keep it as the ED has smartlock and despite being primitive may as well retain it... Don't seem to here about as many AU BEM's failing as the EA-EL ones seem too... Maybe they fixed that relay... I'd intend on keeping the full ED AC system and mounting the compressor to the AU block... I'm handy with steel... I'll make something work... You guys know if you can do a resistor trick on the AU auto computer like the E series computers? Just in case I never find an AUI VCT Manual computer? Snap, Yeah ok, never saw that stuff of Ash's... Like you said though, smartlock system should be easy to integrate with a smartlock system... Engine output never changed much between a Series I-III computers? I would nearly bet something expensive on it, but no doubt I can't use whatever data output there is on an AUI computer to drive the NL cluster? I'll still need an EL computer for that? Cheers, Tim
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| TimmyA |
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Actually if I run full AUII engine loom, engine bay loom, dash loom, BEM, computer & barrel, then just change it back into the ED body loom it should just start and run yeah?
Can't think of anything in the a** end of the car that would upset the system that much? As long as the front was entirely AUII or AUIII then the imobiliser and electrics should all work as though it were an AU? The tail stuff is interior light, power windows, demister, rear lights, speakers, fuel pump... Should be OK? Cheers, Tim
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| BenJ |
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Tacho will need something built to interpret the Crank Angle sensor and convert it to a normal tacho signal.
Cheers BenJ
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| TimmyA |
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Ben,
Something I overlooked... All I was thinking was data line... I am guessing there is something out there for that Ben? something you may have used on the DOHC? I don't suppose anybody knows about the data line case? Do I need to run an EL computer just to get the temp gauge and such to work? Or will the AU computer drive these? Cheers, Tim
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| galapogos01 |
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Posts: 1139 Joined: 27th Feb 2005 Ride: Supercharged EF Fairmont Location: T.I. Performance HQ |
AU computer will have a tacho output, just like EF. Unsure of data line differences from EL to AU, but you will only need it if you have an EL dash. The EA-ED trip computer just works off injector signal, and climate control has a separate temp sensor.
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| TimmyA |
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Jason,
Ah ok... The EL computer I have uses the SPOUT wire to drive the tacho which would be deleted on the EF so yeah... Just depends if the signal out on the AU to drive the tacho is the same on the EF computer... Times like this when you wish you owned an oscilloscope... Yeah I have an NL cluster fitted... So will need the data to drive basically the temp gauge and the the gear shift is nothing coz I have a manual and it might do some of the diagnostic stuff too maybe... I run the clock  because the trip computer was a lying POS and got removed soon after being installed... And no climate control... Over complicates being cold or hot... Quite happy to either turn the AC on or the heater on... No worries there...Cheers, Tim
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| EF_wanabe |
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Has got ALOT to catch up on with this thread reads away in the morning
This guy knows his stuff i am jealous |
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| TimmyA |
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Still drifting in and out of thought on the one day AU wiring conversion...
If I were to go full AU II wiring... The computer, BEM, engine, the whole works... Can I use the BEM to drive the ED door actuators? I know AUII ran the newer type which are more a POS than the old noisy type... Seen a million more of them snap the drive shaft than the old ones wear out... So I'd sooner stay with old and noisy... Does anyone have an AU wiring page they can send me showing the door look wiring stuff? I have the ED one and the ED locks are rather simple all in all... It's all if the AU BEM outputs the same sort of signal to the door locks... Curious to work it out and if possible I can mud map some stuff out for the future and make it up on the test bench to compare functionality... Next cause for concern is I like my ODBI reader Murray sold me... I like being able to do full diagnostics and see any and all codes within the computer... What's the pick of fault code scanners for AU and how well do they work? Be interested to know what sort of dollars it'd set me back to be able to still do diagnosis myself, but I don't want a scanner that'll only read some codes, or give out wrong information... Something I'm not involved with much so would appreciate guidance from those who do work with it? Cheers, Tim
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| BenJ |
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Timmy.
Replace the factory actuators in the doors for aftermarket ones, and then it won't matter. And are more reliable and much quieter. In reality, for a bloke with your electrical skills, it shouldn't really matter if the actuators are positively or negatively activated. Cheers BenJ
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| TimmyA |
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Cheers Ben... Is this what you've done? Anything decent you can recommend?
The switching wasn't so much my issue, is the lot of aux contacts in them that had me concerned whether there was different combinations or not... The Ed ones have power wire hooked to each actuator, one wire which grounds for lock, one for unlock and the masters have a full time earth... at the stage of not knowing how it all works at this stage and trying to get my head around it... Cheers, Tim
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