You got me with the door actuators, door ajar, bulb out. The AU latch assy's are a fair bit different from the E's - the E's just add the door ajar s/w - that's it. Bulb out just need breaks in the rear tailight and stop light lines, then goes through the back of the cluster - easy.

You could probably get rid of it - my XH ute doesn't have any. Being glass fibre, it's mainly fire related.

Thanks Ray

The AU book shows two different scenarios... I'll know by this afternoon and will post findings for all... Though nobody else will probably go down my route, at least there will be record for future reference...

Yeah well it may just get pulled out then... May even just get the engine bay painted while the engine is out... Make it all purty once more... Wonder what a black bay looks like... Might look more tidy...

Cheers,
Tim

Wooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo!!!!!!!!!!!!

We have suck says (pronounced success)...

The data line on the AU computer will drive the NL cluster perfect... I can't test gear indicator as I have a manual but everything else works spot on... The AUII looms start and run the AUI motor too... Hooked it all up and hit the key and off it went... Just had to bridge out the fuel pump relay on the donor car...

I plugged the AU looms back in for my brother's one tonner and went into the diagnostic mode and it said 73.5 degrees on the engine temp, then plugged my looms back into the motor and the NL cluster said 73.5 degrees too... So sensor resistance must be so close it's not funny...

In 5th gear at idle (on stands) it was doing 40km/hr roughly and using 4L/100... In 1st gear giving it big rev fulls I could go up to 30L/100 and beyond so it all appears to function spot on... Means I need do not need to splice an EF computer in simply to get data output...

Bit of extra pin work to do, one pin from the left connector needs to be pulled out and joined into the right connector (smartshield LED)...

Only thing to note in the spreadsheet is the speedo in and out wires... I had them in the NL plugs the wrong way around and I am sure I pulled them out of the AU plugs right, but thing I messed the labels up in the table, but I can't tell for sure, so if anyone else uses that wiring spreadsheet and their speedo doesn't work then just swap the two white wires around...

Door ajar stuff will be easy... On the AU the driver's door wire which grounded when the door is open (they are not resistance contacts as they were on the E series) comes into the dash loom and tee's to the instrument cluster and to the BEM... I'll leave that wire disconnected from the cluster, run another single wire into the body loom and plug onto my ED door switch, this wire will hook to that dash wire and tell the BEM the door is open... I'll run another strand into the dash loom and pick up the existing body loom wire and run that into the cluster for the NL door ajar...

Sounds hard but makes it easy and then I just need to repeat it for the other doors... One wire into the body loom to hook into the existing door buttons, and 4 wires into the dash loom for the doors... This will be so much neater than what I currently have in the ED... It makes it easy that the AU already has the individual door wires in the body loom and that I just need to add in the ED wiring for the buttons...

So it's been a day of success so far... Now to move on patching the AU air con controls into the ED dash and seeing if anything is in the wrong spot or not... The AU has heaps of length on most of the button wiring so I should be able to make most things reach OK with only plug changes... Getting to stay where I need to gut the spare EB we have starting running the looms in to make all the final changes...

If anybody wants to do this and needs help then feel free to sing out... It just looks hard, but really isn't too bad... Easier than I first pictured anyway...

Cheers,
Tim

Well Done!!!!

I know just how you feel mate.

All that theory turns into practical reality, and it is a real buzz.

Keep at it.

Cheers
BenJ

Cheers Ben...

On occasion it is nice when things just happen... Still glad I'm not trying to piece through BA wiring but... The best part about most of this is there is very little work required to get the driveline and engine refinements in my ED... Even easier being a manual... If one were to try with an auto the power/econ light would be difficult to get working...

Also have just realised why AU's run the cruise light indicator into the EEC-V and then from there use the data line to turn the "lamp" on and off... I didn't realise the AU had both "cruise" and "set" indication... Because the cruise module only has one lamp output, they turned that into a serial data line which had both functions in it and then sent that to the EEC-V which added that data into the data it was sending to the Instrument Cluster anyway and Robert's your mother's brother... This is why on the old man's ED when we fitted the EF/EL cruise but used an AU actuator the jewel in the cluster flashed on and off and did weird things... It was a signal wire and as such EF/EL and AU cruise modules are very different in that regard (despite looking identical)... Shame I can get a "set" light but without decoding the serial data from the cruise module it'll be near impossible and not something that is a necessity anyway...

Some other minor wiring changes, things like handbrake wire, cruise on/off wire, door button wires, are yet to be done, then the extras I need like the reverse wire for my double DIN unit, amp trigger wire... I have door courtesy wires in my fairmont looms too but I don't think I'll bother with fitting lights to my door cards... Will just wire in the front footwell lamps and leave it at that... Oh and have the power window wiring changes too to allow fitment of switches to the console which will be pretty easy too looking at the fairmont body loom... The big grey/yellow power wire I needed is provided at the centre console I'm guessing for maybe power seats...

So still a list of things to do but it is all only minor stuff... May be enjoying AU VCT Series II goodness sooner than first thought...

Cheers,
Tim

Good for you Tim - sometimes you need to go into uncharted territory.
Most times it's the only way to find out.

And sometimes you need to lose to win eventually.

Thanks Ray... Felt like I've done a lot of losing over the years... Nice to just have something plug in and work...

Got most of the dash wiring sorted today for the E series door button + separate door ajar switches... Had to split it up in the dash and run the door ajar stuff just to the cluster and create the two new circuits for the door buttons and run them down to the body loom plug... Fixed the radio buttons and run it to the radio plug... Then spent an hour puzzling over the body loom...

On my loom there is another plug between the fuel pump plugs and the fuel flap plug which had a short adaptor loom plug in and then a resistor plugged into that... Traced it back to the main plug, then on the dash loom side it changed colour from blue with a trace to plain yellow and got bigger in gauge which seemed odd and run into a pin in the body module which didn't exist on the body module page in the ford book... After hair pulling and puzzling it turned out to be the unlock wire for the drivers door... Because AU II had dual stage unlocking... But in the body loom it went into a resistor near the fuel flap to earth...

All I can figure is I have an AUI body loom which must have had a fuel flap ajar and no dual stage locking... So ideally I need to source an AU II body loom (preferably high series SWB loom)...

Hopefully that will make a fair bit more stuff line up in the plugs...

So far so good but... Just fiddly and time consuming... Nearly finished the instrument cluster stuff... Then really need the dash to start working out if everything else like heater controls need lengthening or shortening and re-wire them as I go...

Cheers,
Tim

Does anyone know if a BA smartshield fob with control AU smartshield remote keyless entry? Or were the systems different still?

Cheers,
Tim

someone else asked this & the answer i remember being given was no coz they work on differant frequencies

otherwise i gots no clue [& hopefully i remembered the question/reply correctly lol]

Ahhh... Bugger that... They make the fang dangle flip keys to suit "BA" and I thought that if both were smartshield than I'd be able to get one of those... Was never real sold on the build quality of the AU remote...

Cheers,
Tim

i hope it was the BA .... don't seem ta remember which it was [BA/BF etc]

yeah i have two AU remotes here ............... both have loose battery holders

Congratulations on getting the wiring sorted. Anytime you need another car to practise on I have a NL that would love the conversion lol.

Cheers man... It's not over just yet... But the end is in sight and it hasn't been all that bad thus far... A high series dash loom would have made it even easier again only because I run the NL cluster...

When you do yours, if you need a hand just sing out...

Cheers,
Tim

Getting a little closer... Fiddling around with a spare dash presently to try and get the bits and pieces to fit properly...

Got the junction box mounted up roughly just to trial fit for clearance and such... It's a squeeze but will be functional... Still looks more covered in and neater than the AU hole in the dash too... Just got to fab a bracket to hold the other mounting tag on the junction box...

Looks sort of like this (mobile phone pic)


Next is to fab something up to mount the BEM in a semi-useful spot...

Instrument cluster is wired up fully now... The changes have been made... Door ajar system and dome light system changes to suit E series body... Airbag light has been disabled... Airbag plug re-wired to supply power to my circuit in the steering wheel for the FG cruise button interface, and the 4th button on the right side I use for ODO scroll as I always drive with my ODO in diag mode and only exit it to check the km's ever so often... Without moving anywhere I can check digital temp, volts, fuel economy, litres of fuel, etc etc...

Cheers,
Tim

Had a bit of a tinker with the junction box this arvo and made up the other point to anchor it into... Solid as a rock now...

Here is a photo of what it looks like minus the junction box and the plastic bezel...



Now the dash is upside down on the table, so I took the photo up the right way and then flipped it so the dash looks like right but the shed looks upside down...

Now I drilled a hole and welded a M6 bolt in to pick up the side mount which went through the original steelwork behind the original fuses and such... Was just a tad lower than the existing hole in the bracket which you can see... I had to cut some out to allow the plugs to go in the back of the junction box in two places on the bottom a tiny bit and fair whack on the left hand side of the bracket...

If you can see it I sloted a section out of a piece of flat 4mm steel and slid it over the original steelwork on the top left... marked and tapped a hole to take an M6 bolt and then put it all together and tack welded it in... It is as solid as an ox... Gave it all a paint while it was hot to help prevent from any future rusting... Also welded the piece of angle that usually goes through the plastic part of the dash and anchors in just above the kick panel... It had just about busted the plastic out so it now more permanently attached to help take the weight of the dash which is seen in the bottom right...

Put it all back together tomorrow... Have a bit more plastic to remove from the bezel to allow the junction box to come out through the front as you can do on an AU and then see if it is all strong enough to remove and install relays which bending or breaking anything... May need a bit of extra support yet, may not... Time will tell... May even just reinforce the original flimsy steel behind the junction box and leave it at that... Trial runs will tell...

Will knock the the BEM mount over the weekend hopefully... Have a fair idea what I'm going to do there...

Cheers,
Tim