So you have polyurethane and acrylic?
Spraying the XR6 wagon in Acrylic - but something like poly in the engine bay or under areas would be great because it's hard wearing.

What is the factory paint in the engine bay? acrylic? Or they used something different again...
'E' Falcons should be 2k - get some thinners on a rag, and dab in a not obvious area - if the rag sticks or takes paint off, it's Acrylic.

May go out with fresh eyes from now on andhave a look around for a "pretty" red... Though I am still really attached to my factory red... More I look at my car the more I love it... Wonder how it'd look with a metallic particle in it...
Probably best to stick to the original colour.

Awesome... Thanks Ray... Appreciate the help...

Cheers,
Tim

Nah Tim it doesn't need a clear coat. The binder is originally clear and they put the pigments and tinters in it.

Here is a link to the Australian Standard colour chart.
http://www.licindustrial.com.au/austral ... lours.html

These can be played with while int he paint shop to clean them up , change them etc.
I started with the basic purple and ended up with this with a bit of playing.

Fitted the AU computer loom up to the EB today... Just curious if anyone knows if the AU has the identical same heaterbox and rirc vent section as the E series? Not sure if I've ever seen a photo of what's behind an AU dash...

Also, does someone with an AU have the ability to snap an "up skirt" photo of how the plug on the passenger side of the car above the passengers feet sits normally? The big white one that joins dash loom to computer loom... I fiddled today and can't make it sit proper looking, just not sure what proper looking is so if someone can help a little that'd be terrific... Then I can make some form of mount up for under the dash on the ED to mount the plug on...

Cheers,
Tim

OK...

So googling away and poking around I have discovered that AU has a different recirc flap than the e series...




It appears the bottom rectangular section is cut off to minic the curve in the flap... I could do this and it would give me a heap of room which I am currently lacking...

All I would appreciate because I cannot tell from the photos is a high res pic of someone with an AU with no dash showing how the wiring is routed from the compute around under there... Along with the heaterbox wiring and such would be a massive help also... I have a vague idea what is going on but something a bit clearer would help more...

Cheers,
Tim

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Also progress from the weekend was such that I defied all odds and managed to paint the new fibro eves on my house in the rain using my Wagner Airless 115 I got from bunnings... Fantastic piece of gear I might add... Bit fiddly to clean up the first couple of times until a method sets in and I made some items up to make it easier still... Works fairly flawlessly and is nearly as easy as they make it look in the videos...

I did manage to get some car related stuff achieved... The drivers and passenger door looms I changed the rubber boot over from a spare set of EL looms I had here which joins the body to the door... I also picked out all the power window wiring from both looms which I don't need... This meant I could completely delete a plug from the driver's door loom... I also sacrificed the door courtesy illumination wiring too but I don't plant to run that so no major dramas there...

Run it into the door and fitted off the narva QC plug for the aftermarket actuator... Just got the plug to crimp on for the power window...

What I did with the power windows was essentially I'm just using the wiring for the passenger power window... Because it runs all the way from the drivers door it's easy... I just cut the wiring at the tunnel and add in the two plugs for the console window switches... One sends towards the passenger window as per normal the other back toward the master switch in the driver's door... Then I cut the wiring there and remove the 10" long driver's door power window wiring and cut off the two ends that go back to the passenger window... I'll crimp on a narva 2 pin T connector to plug into the power windows here...

I could in theory do very similiar with the rear windows... But I'm not running them either so I'll leave it as is for now...

The cruise loom has also been modified... All I had to do with this was bring the deactivator switch plug (pressure switch in the master cylinder of EF onward vehicles) back inside the car... I hook the two ED cruise switches into this wiring... The two switches (brake and clutch) are both normally closed and wired in series... This then gives the normally closed signal into the cruise module... If the switch fails, the brake light switch fails, the wiring breaks, the pedal box breaks, etc etc, these switches will not be pressed in by the lifted brake or clutch pedal, will hence go open circuit and then cancel the cruise... This is the current set up I'm running and it works fine...

Might work on getting some photos of the progress over the next few days... Have a few odds and ends to show now...

Waiting on my 65mm knockout punch to arrive from the UK to knockout the hole for the engine loom to enter the cabin space... Once I get that in I can work out how I'm going to mount the bracket that holds the orange and white dash plugs... The dash is all but complete... Sooner or later I'll source an AU heaterbox loom and I wont have to change that plug... May modify the E series recirc flap to the same as AU to give me some space for the big white plug and the heaterbox plug and such... Just a matter of fixing up the parcel shelf wiring and that's pretty much it I think...

Cheers,
Tim

Still following with interest Timmy.

You are doing well.

Cheers
BenJ

Just doing the good Samaritan thing here...

Modified Duct Work:




Extra Wiring, this plug was originally dedicated to pre-tensioners and the sub amp power... Has been modified and now contains the following:
White: Driver Door Button (for illumination)
Black/Blue: Other Door Buttons (for illumination)
Yellow: Sub Amp Power (constant)
Blue/Red: Illumination Ground (solely for the illumination requirements of the BA buttons, runs down the EF/EL handbrake wire in the body loom)
Green/Red+Green/Black: some remaining pre-tensioner wiring
Blue: Amp remote turn on from my head unit
Red/Green: Trigger wire (key on) for my dual battery solenoid

(the above is more for my benefit than anyone elses... )

And the two RCA leads for sub woofer and rear camera




General Photos:








Junction Box all mounted up and the OBDII connector


Headunit wiring including:
3pin plug for PAC steering wheel interface (ignition wire, earth, and steering button wire)
2pin plug for extras (sub remote turn on, reverse camera input signal)
2x RCA leads for sub and reverse camera








Door actuators all made up


Driver's Door loom:
Window plug yet to be crimped on, power window master switch removed


The actuator plug, white wire to go to ajar sensor once I have a length


Deleted one plug where it mates to the body loom just by deleting rear window control from this door


That's about it for the moment... I guess more photos will be coming once I have some of the other gear all mounted up... Working on the orange engine bay harness at the moment... the brake fail switch is too shot, window wiper motor is too short... Will lengthen the brake fail switch and it appears the EF/EL had a longer tail on the wiper motor so I'll fit one of those to the ED... Just then need to add the brake light switch plug and cruise cancel switch plug on the inside...

The ED pedal box also has the mounting postion for the bracket which holds the big orange and big white plugs too... Saves me making something... The EB doesn't have it but will go straight into my ED with the only addition being two 10mm bolts...

Going to modify the ED recirculation flap to look like the AU... This will free up some space to mount the plugs in behind the dash...


Body loom has been modified and now is suited to the ED power windows with BA illuminated switches... Looks neat too...
It's all happening... getting there slowly...

Cheers,
Tim

Like your work. And I was pleased when I got front footwell lights going.

Thanks for that...

Yeah I am currently running the strip light but for this install I'm going away from it and just running the two T10 globes in the bottom of the dash... Did this on the old man's car with LED's and it works fine so I'm deleting the mounting hassles with the strip LED's...

Cheers,
Tim

Nice work on the wiring dude, must take a lot of patience! I can't stick at wiring for more than an hour or two at a time, drives be bonkers after that!

Cheers

ToranaGuy

Thanks Jay...

Yeah it's not as bad as you'd think... I have a very specific map in my mind of what I need to do and what needs to go where to make what work... Did from the start and I had to get in and attack before something fell off the end of the list and I forgot what I had planned... Sure I spent the first few weeks piecing wiring together even while I was sleeping... It's getting to a stage where most of it is ready and the last things I have to do can't be done in the EB because it doesn't have the few odds and ends to mate up to things like the door ajar or the power windows...

Putting this dash into the EB will nearlly be the end of it and prove it all fits together like the perfect jigsaw puzzle should...

Cheers,
Tim

Ah lazy sort of weekend...

Fed the body loom into the EB on Saturday and spent the day just sussing stuff out... Transferring the difficult-to-remove-without-destorying clips from the EB body loom to the ED loom...

It all fits and sort of looks like it is meant to belong... The plastic box thing that the body loom plugs mount into clips straight into the E series lower A pillar... So score there...

As far as everything went in the front half of the car it all reached as intended... The tweeter wires run up just into the top of the firewall where the tweeters live... They need just a few more inches of wiring and they're set...

Then spent the arvo looking at the boot wiring and trying to suss that out... The AU wiring isn't really long enough for what I want on both sides so going to lengthen it...

Sunday I made up the wiring to do the tail lights and trailer plug... Was all too short so added another rear section into my rear section to give the required length to reach the two tail lights... Ran out of heatshrink and was stuck not being able to connect it to the rest of the body harness then... Once this is added in I'll be able to earth that rear earth point at the designated nut in the back of the ED...

Decided on the final outcome for the left hand side wiring... Had to separate the fuel pump wiring out a bit earlier in the harness and I'm going to loop the fuel flap wiring up over the filler cover in the boot and use the fixed stud that holds the solenoid in as that side earth... Earths are a touch short and I'll lengthen them accordingly...

The AU interior light wiring runs down the A pillar, so I managed to fluke getting the wiring down the A pillar... Took a lot of time but wasn't going to give up... I've ordered a bore scope so I can see exactly where it went so I can find the same hole when I re-do my car... Something that I'll have a thousand uses for once I actually have one... Plus it'll get deducted at tax time next year...

Today I discovered I had a stupid assessment due for my diploma course so spent the morning doing that and then finished off the wiring for the parcel tray/boot... Change the plug for the boot and shortened the wiring... Lengthened the Driver side rear speaker and the boot light wiring and will need to shorten the passenger side speaker I think...

Crimped the plugs onto the door illumination buttons... Modified the re-circ flap to look similar to that on an AU...

Body wiring is getting there... Basically have a plan for the rest that needs to be finished... Just need some more time... Some stuff will be done after it has been installed into my car, this being the center console stuff and the dual battery stuff...

Fed the two front looms in... Making up some custom boots to get the wiring into the rear doors... Have a plan for that... Just need to strip the power window wiring out of my rear door looms to make them a bit "lighter" so they fit through the small convolute...

Should all look alright hopefully... So far so good anyway...

Cheers,
Tim

On this note,

If anyone has any advice what is the best weekend type OBDII scanner I'd love to hear about peoples opinions...

Ben do you have one for your mixed bag?

Spent the night watching videos on the Autel MD802... It's $400 on ebay and seems to be fairly comprehensive, seems to have good back up... Can be configured for vehicle specific stuff or just generic codes...Sort of learning in that direction... The bore scope I ordered is an Autel so I'll check the build quality of that out when it arrives...

Cheers,
Tim

I have the the XCal3 Flash Unit, which also returns error codes etc.

Bit of an overkill for you I think though.

Cheers
BenJ