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| TimmyA |
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Thanks Ben...
Yeah maybe too much for what I need to achieve... May end up with that autel unit... YouTube videos make it look pretty good... Shame it doesn't do keys but I ain't spending 2 grand on the flash unit that does that... Cheers, Tim
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| TimmyA |
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Back door looms are done...
I hated the Std E series crappy hard plastic thing that splits where it bends to get the wiring into the rear doors so I am using 4 of the rubber grommets that are on the body loom to get the rear wiring into the sill cavity... These are bigger than the rubber grommets which feed the wiring into the rear doors... About 38mm vs 31mm from my rough measurements... I'll be using a knock out punch to enlarge the hole slightly... With the right finger movements you CAN get the die nut onto the rest of the punch from inside the the sill... To join them I'm using some of the smallest convolute... I discovered the pre tensioner wiring on the AU body loom had two pieces which are the perfect length and had to be removed from the pre tensioner wiring so I could tape it up... The beauty of these two lengths is that they are not split like it it normally is and hence shouldn't allow water into the sill... It is also a tight fit in the above grommets... With the help of WD40 it just fit... Will get photos at some stage to explain the general idea... Also the AU rubbers are no good as the don't sit right and around about 3/4 inch too long... Just makes it sit wrong and I don't want to damage any wiring... Cheers, Tim
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| TimmyA |
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Here's what I ended up doing for the back door looms...
{DESCRIPTION} {DESCRIPTION} Just got to set it to length and tape the grommets to the convolute... But they're tight as seal currently anyway... Should look heaps better than the factory hard black plastic crap... Cheers, Tim
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| TimmyA |
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Any you doods running some fancy limited slip type diffs?
I had that 4wd system lokka for a few months there but it was beyond embarrassing... Besides that it certainly worked and was fantastic for locking both wheels at 1:1 Still toying with the idea of one day trying an Eaton truetrac out... Notice you can buy them on ebay now... http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FORD-FALCON- ... 4ac6b8bdeb I think they are just an LSD that doesn't wear out but? It wont lock up like the lokka did? Curious if anyone is running one or knows someone who is that might have some feedback? For the price it isn't something I'm rushing out to do... Just doing some research into available products... Cheers, Tim
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| TimmyA |
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Not much news...
Finally... Finally got the heater box wiring loom from an AU... So much hassle for such a tiny piece of wiring... Fits in the EB no worries... Like it was always meant to be... I also got the heaterbox vacuum loom... Think I could use all AU vac lines and retrofit the ED control panel ends to it... This is now way too hard... The heaterbox loom is too different and too hard... None of the hose fittings will go onto the plungers, they all have too smaller hole in them... The plastic plug which pokes out through the firewall wont fit... And had to make a mount up to mount the plug under the recirc flap... So just going to stay with E series vac lines and run the EL vac line set up on the AU motor which will interface with the E series heaterbox (ie exactly whats in the car at present)... The EB has a broken flap which governs between the windscreen and feet... So I have drawn up a plan and going to get some parts made up and fab up something out of steel because this is the third one I've seen broken in my time... So they are nearly as bad as the recric flap... Listed earlier in my thread I have shown the permanent repair my old man came up with... Once I have the parts made for this (some lathe work) I'll show what I've done... Other than that not much to report... Need to lengthen the tweeter wiring then fit the dash and work out where to mount the plugs that mate between dash and firewall so they reach both ends... Sort of on the home stretch... My 65mm knockout punch for the grommet near the accelerator pedal went missing so I got a refund and bought another off the second seller on ebay... So still waiting for that... House renos are going flat knacker too... No wonder why I feel stretched thin at the moment... Cheers, Tim
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| MAD |
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{USERNAME} wrote: The EB has a broken flap which governs between the windscreen and feet... So I have drawn up a plan and going to get some parts made up and fab up something out of steel because this is the third one I've seen broken in my time... I will buy one! ...as long as it's the same as an EL. |
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| TimmyA |
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haha...
And yours would be the 4th one... Like the recirc flap it's just a general pain in the a**... At least you'd be able to change the EF/EL one with the dash still in... The ED handbrake bracket on the pedal box and the clutch pedal make it near impossible with the dash in... Cheers, Tim
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| MAD |
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I haven't looked to see if I can get it out without removing the dash. I just assumed not.
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| TimmyA |
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Did manage to do mine once, well my old man did... Was far from easy but... You should have little hassle in an EF/EL but and even less if it is an auto...
That section is held in with one phillips head screw... Worst would be trying to unclip and get it around the little piece that directs air to the passengers feet... Cheers, Tim
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| MAD |
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I'll have to give it a shot then.
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| TimmyA |
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OK dooooods...
I have achieved what was to be the easy part of the double DIN facia for the ED... Cut out the crap... cut out a good piece from a spare... plastic welded it in... Looks like such: {DESCRIPTION} {DESCRIPTION} {DESCRIPTION} {DESCRIPTION} {DESCRIPTION} {DESCRIPTION} {DESCRIPTION} Tomorrow will be filling the bottom in with some spare plastic and some more welding... Questions are... Once I grind these welds down flat, so I need to create a groove for this plastic forming bog stuff to adhere to? Or something different for the finished surface here? The original mottled effect of the plastic, can it be retained by some technique? Or do I have to sand the whole thing flat to make it look like it was meant to be? As I said, the easy part is nearlly down... Now it's bogging business that I don't know so much about...  Happy to hear all tricks tips and criticism... Cheers, Tim
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| snap0964 |
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Once I grind these welds down flat, so I need to create a groove for this plastic forming bog stuff to adhere to? Or something different for the finished surface here?
You should be okay to apply directly to the plastic, provided it's grease/oil, etc free surface. The original mottled effect of the plastic, can it be retained by some technique? Or do I have to sand the whole thing flat to make it look like it was meant to be? You'll need to sand the bog smooth and feather it out, and some of the surrounding area will be smoothed too. What you can do when spraying it is letting the paint get tacky, dabbing the surface with a paintbrush, let dry and do it a few times til it all matches.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| TimmyA |
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Cool... Youre a legend thanks Ray...
Wasn't sure if the bog would stick to the plastic in the tiny pin holes that I'll have left... Or whether I needed to grind a heap out to have a substantial amount of bog to help it stick... Paintbrush sounds like an idea... Reckon it'll match up pretty close? Cheers, Tim
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| TimmyA |
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Ah Ray,
You reckon this would work OK? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Septone-Car- ... 3a7fbf00b1 Cheers, Tim
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| snap0964 |
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Can't see the ebay link on a work computer - I'd suggest you use glass fibre impregnated filler - septone make it. The plastic will flex somewhat, so normal filler might crack around the feathered edges.
If it is too flexy, reinforce that area on the underside with decent epoxy or fibreglass resin. Paintbrush sounds like an idea... Reckon it'll match up pretty close? You might need to do it over the smoothed area, then do it and work it outwards over successive paint layers - you'll see the effect once you do it.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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