Question for the Ben

Or anyone else with similar conversion done...

My man, E series cars by default have two master actuators and 2 slaves... Most aftermarket and AU onwards systems support 1 master and 3 slaves...

Does your EB (which is running aftermarket alarm and central locking yes?) run 1 master and 3 slave actuators?

If so, I have discovered a problem! And I'm not sure how to conquer the issue as yet...

In my scenario anyway it goes like this...

The front door lock assemblies will not allow the lock lever to pull into lock unless the door strike is home (2 door clicks closed)... The rear assemblies will allow the mechanism to lock if the door is open, 1 click or 2 clicks closed...

As such, if the driver door is one click closed and you hit lock the actuator can't pull closed and because it is a master the smartshield module sees it didn't lock through the feedback switch and unlocks the car and sounds the horn... Easy...

If a rear door is one click closed and you hit lock the car locks and stays locked because the master in the drivers door successfully locked... However because the rear doors will lock you can't open them out of their one click closed position, making the car still secure...

The front passenger door is the issue... If it is one click closed and you hit lock the car locks and stays locked... The drivers master actuator seen the lock happen and all is well... Because the front mechs wont lock if the door is one click closed the front passenger door stays unlocked... You can then lift the handle and the smartshield module sees the door open and then unlocks all the other doors...

I have a couple of options...

1) I try and modify the front mech so it becomes like the rear mechs and will allow a lock to happen at only 1 click closed...
2) I try and get the door buttons to work at 1 click so that the smartshield module sees the door "open" and signals an unlock and the horn to sound...
3) I modify the s**t out of the AU wiring and set it up to run dual master actuators in the front... This option most likely wont happen...

As long as doors are always closed properly there is no issue... Only if the front passenger is is not 2 clicks closed...

How's yours work Ben? Does your wagon suffer from this "novelty"?

On a side note I obviously now have all the doors wired and the car locking and unlocking... The dash is back in temporary to check some operation of various bits and pieces... Gearbox is back in and half of everything is hooked up... Still got wiring into the boot and parcel tray to go... All the sensors on the engine seem to be talking to instrument cluster as much as I can tell while I still can't start it yet...

Does anyone know if AU manuals run the big fat rubber thingo on the end of the clutch cable? With it install on mine I am all the way out of of adjustment... Thinking they may have ditched it on AU and made the sump and bellhousing thicker to be able to delete it and that this is why I have no adjustment?

What holds the clutch cable on AU as it enters the sump/bellhousing?

Cheers,
Tim

Can you use EL lock mechanisms?
EL front passenger door will lock even if it's open.

THIS IS WHAT I WANTED TO HEAR!!!!!!!

I didn't know this was the case... I thought maybe EL only had one master but google images revealed that it still had a key barrel in the passenger door and I thought it must have been a master like the ED...

Something to suss out... So definitely the case and only EL not EF?

Cheers,
Tim

I'm pretty sure it was on the EL that they deleted the front passenger lock.

And by that I mean I know EL doesn't have it but not sure if EF does or not.

Back to googling images...

Thanking you kindly for your insight!

Cheers,
Tim

Yes, EL didn't have a key barrel in the passenger door.

In essence, it is a slave actuator.

Late EL also lost the inside sniper button.

In mine, using after market actuators, I believe both the front doors are masters.

However, I don't have a key barrel in the passenger door as it has EL door handles LOL.

Both of the front sniper buttons are disconnected and stay in the down position for looks.

Cheers
BenJ

No worries, glad I could help.

Can soon find out Ben...

If you close your passenger front door one click and lock the car does the door lock or stay unlocked and if it locks does the whole car unlock after a second to tell you it failed?

Guess that by looking at ebay there is no visual way to tell the EA-EF and the EL actuator apart?

Cheers,
Tim

There were three part numbers of actuator used on EF/EL as they went through revisions to fix the cycling issue.

Part numbers as per Ford TSB 1/98:
87BG 220 A20 BB / AB
87BG 220 A20 B1B / A1B
96DA 220 A20 BA/AA

This TSB covered all EF and EL models.

Going by that, I'd say there's no difference in the actuator, only the actual latching mechanism in the door. Maybe even the latching mechanism is the same, and the only difference is that there's no connection to a lock barrel.

My car is not the one to test with, as it doesn't have smartlock at all, and uses an aftermarket alarm system for the remote locking.

Sorry I can't help.

Cheers
BenJ

Mad,

This is news to me... I knew au had a cycling issue that was fixed by disconnecting a wire at the body module (au2 actuator into au1)... Wasn't aware ef and El had a tsb out on them?

Ben,

Still would prove my point if you have a slave after market actuator in the front passenger door... I'm running after market actuators driven by smartshield... Smartshield isn't my issue... It's the slave actuator on the master door mechanism... Curious to see if your door locks while only 1 click closed?

Cheers,
Tim

I've got the TSB on my home computer if you want to see it. I've got a heap of TSBs for EF/EL and some are EL/AU. I can't remember where I got them from now.

I had a look at the EL wiring diagrams and it shows the two front actuators to be identical, so the difference must lie either in the latch mechanism, or that it is connected to the lock barrel.

I reckon if you disconnect the rod from the lock barrel on the passenger side it will work fine as a single master, 3 slave set up.

There isn't something else in the mechanism that would stop the actuator from pulling the lever down without the door closed?

There is 4 lever tags hanging off the front ones...

One has two holes and has the actuator hooks in the bottom hole and the sniper button in the top hole
One for the door barrel key
One for the outside door handle
One for the inside door handle which will override the lock status of the mech...

I'd had thought irrespective of a linkage on the barrel one that it wouldn't make any difference to the lever for the atuator?

I can simulate this but by putting the key in the door and trying with the key in lock and unlock positions to see if setting that lever in a different position frees the mech up...

Cheers,
Tim

Yeah now you mention it you're probably right, cause when the door is shut it will lock irrespective of the lock.

I guess you would have to use an EL latch mechanism then.

Aftermarket actuators will still lock when the door is slightly ajar - if they're controlled by an alarm keyfob - no blip blip.
IIRC Smartlock will still blip blip if you use the Factory keyfob in this situation.

Smartlock (EF's onwards) (and I'm guessing Smartshield does too) uses the courtesy light switches to tell if the door is closed, and this isn't 100% accurate.

What you can do is fit the Fairlane door ajar sensors to the door locks to act as the courtesy light switches. They'll need internal modding to act as closed/not closed (remove resistors), or use wagon tailgate latch switches which don't need modding.
This way you'll achieve positive locking all the time.