EL's were fitted with passenger door locks, it wasn't till later in the run that the passenger door lock was deleted. I have an EL wagon here with Passenger door lock, early run car 11/96.

SWC...

Will it lock with the door latch only closed 1 click and not 2? If so it makes it easier for me to know that I can use any EL actuator to overcome my problem...

Ray,

The actuator will attempt to lock no worries... But the latching mechanism part physically wont let the actuator pull it to "locked" with the latch only 1 click closed... Rear doors will let this happen... Fronts wont... If it were fitted with master actuators then because the door physically couldn't lock the switch inside the master actuator wouldn't invert and the car would realise it failed to lock all doors... I need to be able to make the front passenger lock mechanism work like the rear passenger lock mechanism (a slave) and I'd be happy... At least if the doors were one click closed they'd still lock...

I am already running the door ajar switches for the NL instrument cluster so no win there... Smartshield (all AU) had the switch for the interior light in the latching mechanism so it worked exactly as you describe... Did EF/EL have a shorter door button than the ED then to help it distinguish been the door being open 1 click and closed properly? The ED interior light goes out as soon as you half close the door... There is no way it could designate between being 1 click open or closed properly...

Mad

Cheers for that... May venture over to a wrecker one day and see if I can find an EL with no door trim so I can have an experiment and find me one of slave passenger door actuators...

Dudes in general...

Getting there... exhaust is fitted back up and complete again... Throttle body issues... AU runs a different TPS... I can physically mount the AU TPS to the EF/EL throttle body I was running... Reason for this was I could use the EF/EL breather from the rear of the rocker cover into the bottom of the TB... So going to mod the AU TB so it has a barb in the bottom to accept this hose... Means I don't have to have it loop up the front in the BA barb on the plastic intake section...

power steering pump, AU one has exactly the same dimensions in the valve where the high pressure line screws into as my ED pump so I can just use my lines with the unmodified AU pump and I'll never have that stupid swivel nut to leak into my alternator... Discovered tonight the p/steer pump pulley is warped but... will work to find an alternative...

Battery connections are all made and fitted off... The main earth is 0AWG which fitted nicely into a 70mm Cu lug... The Secondary earth for the computer and such is 4AWG in a 25mm Cu lug... Power to starter is 2AWG fitted into a 35mm Cu lug and the Power to the fuse box is 4AWG in a 25mm Cu lug... Also replaced from the battery box to the alternator with 4AWG as well so that cable can actually flow 100amps now as opposed to the undersized 8AWG ford had from the factory... Turned out pretty good... Have had a heap of trouble with those battery terminals but... First set I got (gold in colour) the positive terminal bolts didn't match the threads and the bolts pulled threads and never even went close to doing up... The second set I got (silver) had good bolts and today I realise the manufactured the negative post terminal wrong and made the hole the same size at the positive terminal post...

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Heater controls are back in the dash and it's fitted to the car for real and as fas I can tell it can stay there now... All electrics including heaterbox work and just need vacuum to test the other side of it (I modified the vacuum side too to delete the vac ball and add the AU vac tube into the dash)

Trip to wagga to the doctors tomorrow so hopefully I get a couple of hours to pull the boot wiring in tomorrow arvo...

Cheers,
Tim

tim
the ef/el tps wont screw onto the au2 throttle body, but the ef/el tps is the same as a series 1 au..

so you can run a ef or el throttle body if your running au series 1 tps..

So the ef-au1 are all identical? I notice that this tps has a different plug to the au2 one... Just a plug change? I notice the au Tb will take an old tps but the El Tb won't take the au tps...

Cheers,
Tim

yes, au 2 has a different looking tps with a different plug..
I had a ef throttle body and tps on my au1 ghia, plugged straight in, so if your loom is au2 you can just cut the plug off and use a ef throttle body and tps that way you get the breather in the throttle body...

I will check the wagon tomorrow and let you know.

OK,

Checked the EL Fairmont wagon and with the passenger door closed on the first "click" (closed but ajar), and the car would not lock, door locks cycled and the horn bipped.

Check my EF Fairmont and with the passenger door ajar, the doors locked.

Who knows.

I checked my EL Fairmont today.
On the first click it locks with no warning.
Fully open it also locks but gives warning.

Check if the courtesy lights are still on - if they're not, you shouldn't get any unlocked warning.

Started first turn off key! Just gotta get enough of it back together so it's legal to drive again... Idles good and proper and sounded fantastic once the adjusters took up...

Cheers,
Tim

Cheers for the feedback on the door locks too... I have no idea what to look for now... Seems to make little to no sense... So some els work but not others and swc's ef works...



Guess I just go the wreckers and search around till I find one that works...

Be nice to be able to replace the door buttons with something that would sense ajar like a decent microswitch but as snap mentioned before just due to the nature of it it's not overly actuate compared with actually sensing the latch itself...

Cheers,
Tim

Woohooo. Great feeling isn't when all your hard work and custom designs come to life.

Well done mate!!!!

Cheers
BenJ

Our EL is early run, Nov 1996, so could be fitted with EF Locks. The EF (Late run Series II) passenger actuator could have been changed maybe with an EL actuator, I can't remember. Maybe some others can test their EF / EL's and post up results.

No worries SWC... Appreciate your investigations...

May venture to a wreckers one and weekend and just try out a heap of cars until the right one for what I want...

Car still isn't driving far as I ordered a full AU hose kits thinking it's work and I need the AU header tank hose as it is futher back now... Bother radiator hoses are wrong and I need EF/EL top and bottom hoses... Chase that up tomorrow and at least then I'll be able to fill it with water and driver it around the block...

Stood on one of my AU clear side indicators and snapped the retaining tag off it... Lucky they were "new" ebay ones which were yellow in 6 months and looked like s**t... I have now ordered some genuine hella ones off an au on ebay which look fantastic...

bumper and lights are in... all works... just gotta wire the adaptor back up for the double DIN unit and mounted the steering wheel button interface back up and the car is nearly back together...

Will degas the AC this week and measure up hose lengths and have the hybrid AC lines made so I can run the AU compressor with all the ED AC gear... The compressor is mounted up... My local bloke has pulled apart a dummy set of lines and I haven't seen what he came up with yet but believes he can make a set of lines that will look factory... Looks neat with the AU compressor all mounted up...

Few odds and ends to go... The ends is in sight...

Also the Exedy Heavy duty clutch is fantastic... Heap lighter than whatever the hell was in it before... Very happy so far just moving it around the yard and bosch 120Amp alternator works fine...

The power steering was easy fix... The valve in the a** end of the AU pump is IDENTICAL to the ED pump so I literally just screwed my ED line straight in to the AU pump and filled it up with fluid and away it went... Best part is I'll never have that stupid O ring to leak like on EF onward...

Will get photos at some point... So far but it just looks like an ED again... Locks and unlocks nice but now with smartshield and aftermarket actuators... Can't go wrong when replacements are only $40 a set for all 4!

Cheers,
Tim

As I say, you can mod the door ajar switches, to an open/closed type, or just use wagon tailgate ones - then have each operating a DPDT relay - that's what we did with Benj's setup, to operate the Fairlane cluster, and also have the door courtesy lights operate only on that door when opened.