|
| TimmyA |
|
|||
|
Nice Engine bay there too Troy... Very clean... Didn't see that photo come up before, only read your description...
OK... Finished!!! Except for gas... Jam the s**t out of this page with high res photos and I'll be done... Firstly the hybrid AC lines: {DESCRIPTION} Suction side... ED steel pipe and fitting... Ferrule cut off and a new one TIG welded on... Just been painted here... Then crimped onto the AU suction hose (old AU top piece just cut off) {DESCRIPTION} {DESCRIPTION} Pressure side... ED condenser steel pipe... flex hose on the ED wasn't long enough to run to the compressor and flexi hose on the AU wasn't going to reach this pipe so the only choice was to crimp in a splice connection and because it's under the intake you don't even know it's down there... Still turned out pretty neat... {DESCRIPTION} And all the factory AU stuff that bolts onto the compressor plus the temp and pressure sensors my AU wiring picks up... {DESCRIPTION} General photos of waiting for stuff to be bolted back on: {DESCRIPTION} The ED K frame needed a small modification for the AU compressor gear... This corner had to be cut off to allow the muffler on the back of the compressor to mount without rubbing... {DESCRIPTION} AU compressor plate {DESCRIPTION} Engine bay arrangement {DESCRIPTION} Other angle... Hardly even miss the stupid black firewall deader... Looks so much better without it and noise barely even increased... {DESCRIPTION} 120Amp Bosch Alternator {DESCRIPTION} Modified AU battery cooler intake... Cut the factory one off and turned it round 180 degrees for a forward facing scoop that picks up behind the headlight... Guess it works...  {DESCRIPTION} Bit further out {DESCRIPTION} Header tank to relay box clearance {DESCRIPTION} Master cylinder to header tank clearance {DESCRIPTION} Wiper wiring tucked away {DESCRIPTION} Wouldn't know anything changed from the inside {DESCRIPTION} New hood lining {DESCRIPTION} All the wiring that stuck out like dogs balls that runs up the back of that strut tower on the ED is gone and runs up under the back seat bolster and under the parcel tray carpet and cavity... {DESCRIPTION} So all in all... To recap... From this: {DESCRIPTION} To this in a week or so... {DESCRIPTION} Cheers, Tim
_________________ {DESCRIPTION} |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Mad2 |
|
|||
|
looking good aye timmy
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| BenJ |
|
||
|
Nearly there.
All you need to finish it off is an EL dash conversion hahahahahahaha Well done mate. BenJ
_________________ {DESCRIPTION} - Current Ride |
||
| Top | |
||
| TimmyA |
|
|||
|
Cheers guys...
Na thanks Ben... Not such a fan of it... I like the ED stuff... Would love to get it colour matched to the EL trims but not totally phased there... Cheers, Tim
_________________ {DESCRIPTION} |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| TimmyA |
|
|||
|
On that note...
Anyone got a spare AU charcoal canister purge solenoid in good working order they don't want that I can exchange money for and receive in the mail to clear said computer code? Cheers, Tim
_________________ {DESCRIPTION} |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| roughredXR6 |
|
|||
|
I'm jealous!
I had to retire my red 93 ED XR6 last weekend. Rust in the A-pillars and sills was beyond repair, plus aux shaft had eaten through the block. Couldn't find another decent ED or even EB to replace it in time so had to settle for an EF Mont. Took last week off work to swap out all the good bits, work the hell out of the motor, convert to manual, even put the ED XR seats in it. But it's still not even close to the ED. Gunna put the ED suspension in it next, , maybe that will help. God I miss it, and its only been 10 days since I last drove it. Let me know if you need anything off it. J.
_________________ Ported ED XR6 head shaved too much, AU gasket, custom Crow Cam, Pacemaker 4480's, 5-speed conversion, billet aluminium flywheel, GT clutch, T.I. Performance J3 chip, custom water/methanol injection, modified BA throttle body. Paint&Panel by Barbed Wire Fence. |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| TimmyA |
|
|||
|
Cheers man
 I'm really quite impressed myself with just how neat and more refined both the AU motor and wiring is over the ED/EL system I had before... The biggest thing is that conveluted crap that run back and forth over the top of the motor is all gone... So much tidier with that crap removed... If I can get spare headlights and grill for a steal I'll take them... Only thing that worries me with the XR gear is that somebody will run into me and break a part of it... How'd you go with the seats? My old man has a futura ED and mentioned once he wouldn't mind some EF/EL seats and I know they bolt different but never got around to researching the ability to swap rails or anything like that... The AC got gassed today... Held vacuum with no leaks and apparently the AU compressor I acquired for free is a ripper and has a massive amount of suction... The AU AC control is soooo much better than the EL computer control... At idle with the AC on the thermos only come on low and the everything cycled and operated normally even with the 30 odd degree afternoon we had... Even holding the revs to 2000 I couldn't manage to get the computer to kick the thermos into high... The biggest hate I had with the EL computer was that even if it was the middle of winter as soon as you hit the AC button the computer would bring the thermos on flat out and I sounded like an aeroplane and it'd wait a few minutes before dialing them back to low... The EF/EL thermos just draw a monstrous amount of air... Quite happy with the temps too... The Autel scanner tells me the computer is bringing the evaporator core down to 3 and letting it rise to 6 and the vent temperature is around 7-9 so it's fairly chilled... The compressor adds very little load to the motor and is near silent, unlike my old ED one... Just a far far better system... Also now the AC is gassed when I run the KOEO test I don't get the thermofan 2 output fail code either so that code is brought up when you have a leaky AC system... Only need the AU purge solenoid valve now to fix that code and we're all set... And rectify the leak I have in my AC controls which I am thinking may be the PCV behind the washer bottle... Cheers, Tim
_________________ {DESCRIPTION} |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| TROYMAN |
|
||
|
looking good tim, you have done a great job...
|
||
| Top | |
||
| Mad2 |
|
|||
|
{USERNAME} wrote: looking good tim, you have done a great job... +1 |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| TimmyA |
|
|||
|
Cheers guys...
Basically all said and done now... Just the couple of little things and I now own basically a 2002 AU XR6 VCT with 100,000km on the clock... In a round about kind of way... Cheers, Tim
_________________ {DESCRIPTION} |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| BenJ |
|
||
|
Tim
Having been there and done very similar work to my car, I fully understand what sort of work you have put into it, and you should be very proud of this achievement. I do hope we can meet up one day and check out each others improved box cars and have a yarn. Cheers BenJ
_________________ {DESCRIPTION} - Current Ride |
||
| Top | |
||
| TimmyA |
|
|||
|
Yeah for sure... Intention has been to get to Sydney for about 12 months now and my girlfriend wants to see some of the friends she has there and I want to meet you guys after many years on here...
Heads down bums up in expense and lack of time trying to get the first stage of my house reno complete so I can live there... Soon as that is done I'm sure I'll be entitled to a holiday and Sydney area will be on the cards... Getting older... Still not finding enough time but... Cheers, Tim
_________________ {DESCRIPTION} |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| TimmyA |
|
|||
|
Ray,
When you're reading this again can I share your thoughts please? Still thinking about how to idiot proof this passenger door and thinking about what you said with the door ajar switches... May not be that big of a wiring change... If I use the power window wire supply wire (grey w/ yellow) to trigger the relays at each door, and use the relay only for the door ajar (SPDT)... The power window supply wire is powered when the key is on or accy and remains on for a period after... Inst cluster is only on when key is on... The wire in the body loom going back to the inst cluster for ajar at the door plugs... cut it off and hook the door button wire to it so the switch on the door grounds out and bring on the lamp and relay and hook the old door ajar wire to the relay with a resistor bridge for the ajar in the cluster... Should be a fairly easy kind of job... I have the grey w/ yellow wire at each door, fronts being already powered and I just need to make it live at the back doors (only front power windows)... Modding the door ajar switches... To get them apart, you just pull the pin out with brute force and the board slides out? I got one apart once but it wasn't pretty because if I recall the pin has a barb on it and whatever it pushed into it pulled a chunk out of it on removal... Seems like it should be easy enough and then idiot proof and I get interior light without corroding door buttons... Um in your wisdom, thoughts, ideas, suggestions? Anything I've missed? Cheers mate, Tim
_________________ {DESCRIPTION} |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| snap0964 |
|
|||
|
Ray,
When you're reading this again can I share your thoughts please? Don't worry mate, reading, and I concur with the other's comments with your work. If I use the power window wire supply wire (grey w/ yellow) to trigger the relays at each door, and use the relay only for the door ajar (SPDT)... The power window supply wire is powered when the key is on or accy and remains on for a period after... Inst cluster is only on when key is on... The wire in the body loom going back to the inst cluster for ajar at the door plugs... cut it off and hook the door button wire to it so the switch on the door grounds out and bring on the lamp and relay and hook the old door ajar wire to the relay with a resistor bridge for the ajar in the cluster... Should be a fairly easy kind of job... I have the grey w/ yellow wire at each door, fronts being already powered and I just need to make it live at the back doors (only front power windows)... Use the door actuator power (yellow wire), it's in all doors, power relay coils with this - power when door is open, relay coil earth lines splice to the door ajar earth lines, and use the door ajar switch as the on/off switch in that line. Contacts (30) line to the cluster, (87a) 180 ohm resistor to earth, (87) 1380 ohm resistor to earth. Courtesy light side you can tape a std white or grey relay to this relay, gang the coil connections, connect (30) to earth, (87) to courtesy lines - which are the only lines you need to add, and feed into the doors - the rest (relays,etc) you can do in the doors. Modding the door ajar switches... To get them apart, you just pull the pin out with brute force and the board slides out? I got one apart once but it wasn't pretty because if I recall the pin has a barb on it and whatever it pushed into it pulled a chunk out of it on removal... Nah, you'll need to cut carefully a section out of the casing - the white section, about half the area, then you'll see the board, carefully pull it out with the wires, you'll see the plunger, spring and contact - put them all together and depress when putting the board back in. Mod the switch to be closed when door is open. Glue the cut section back on. The early NA fairlanes had cases you could open and close. Seems like it should be easy enough and then idiot proof and I get interior light without corroding door buttons... Um in your wisdom, thoughts, ideas, suggestions? Anything I've missed? I think you'll find what I've described the easiest, less disruptive, less wiring added way. See how you go.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| TimmyA |
|
|||
|
Ray,
Thanks man... I left a lot of wiring out that I didn't need out of the door looms... This included the grey/yellow power wire and such... My custom boots for getting wiring into the rear doors only just fitted the 4 wires I required (two for the lock and 2 for ajar)... My thoughts were to make the changes in the driver kick panel or in the back of the dash... This is easiest with the wiring i have already and I mount 4 small relays behind the kick panel... Can you recall off the top of your head whether the pin is pushed in or let out for door open? Reason for this is if it back to front (pin pushed in when door closed) then something happens and one of the little flimsy mounting tabs breaks off under use (hopefully not common) then the pin will spring out and you wont be able to lock the car... So hoping pin is out when the door is closed and this will be the open circuit position... If you can't remember I can suss this out for myself anyway and create a workaround... Thoughts were I pop the 4 pins out that run into the big plug behind the driver kick panel and use them to hook to the relay coils as all door ajar switches go to ground anyway... Pick up the grey/yellow as you say for the other side of the coil... Use 4 diodes and then hook interior light two wires to the coil negatives (digital input on the BEM so no current, doesn't need another relay, the ajar switch can take that trigger to ground along with the relay coil) And then as you say with the resistors on the relays and coming back off each relay back up to the cluster for ajar indication... If that makes sense... Easiest only for my case because of the lack of wiring in the doors and I get all 4 relays mounted neatly next to each other... I had no troubles connecting the ajar switches to the locks... Are the hard to get back off without breaking the tags off them? I have two sets that I have purchased and of them 4 of 8 turned up broken and useless... I managed to make 1 semi good one from 4 broken ones... Also they're rare as rocking horse s**t to find for sale anywhere... Anybody got any NA ones lying around as Snap describes above? Cheers, Tim
_________________ {DESCRIPTION} |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Who is online |
|---|
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 59 guests |
