I can try with the aircon sensors if you'd like and see if the compressor will run... Does anyone know which sensor is which? One is small with two wires and one is big with 3 wires run to it? I assume one is pressure and one is temp? You'll need to hook up the pressure one because I am sure the E series (at least the ED) had a hi/lo pressure switch in the TX valve and the temp sensor was just a switch which was inline with the clutch and mounted inside the compressor itself... Not sure if EL was the same?

You could always mount the AU compressor like I did and get the AC lines made up to suit... The EL compressor was s**t and they were prone to shorting out the clutch and that would blow the 100A main fuse for some reason and they'd slowly go flat for the drive until it stopped... I'm told the AU compressor didn't have that problem, it's a s**t load cheaper to replace than the ED and needed a heap less load to drive... So that may be worth your consideration too...

Re-pinning the ECU sounds easier... Just compare the pins themselves... Because EF/AU has 104pins instead of 60 I'm thinking they'll be physically smaller or clip in different... If you have to change all the pins then at the ECU plug that'll be a nightmare and it'll be easier to feed in the AU loom...

If it were me I'd still fit the AU computer loom and engine loom to the engine... Fit the AU upper BBM for the T-Map and AU throttle body for the later generation TPS and IAC plugs/designs... Do you know what you're doing with cam and crank angle sensors yet? Curious for my own sake if you know if the EF sensor will work with the AU or you're just going to try anyway? And how you're mounting the crank sensor if the EL timing case wont allow for it? (Not sure if it does or not, never looked)?

Really can't think of anything that will stop you from getting this going... It'll just be a matter of working out the plug wiring into the dash loom... And the two plugs at the airbox (one of which is ABS and you may not need it)

If you do S1 you may not need to disable the security... The BEM may drive the smartshield enable pin and allow the vehicle to start... Thus maintaining some immobilisation... S3 apparently had the best fuel economy for long drives and such and was better than the BA's I've heard... I run S2 because it was what I could find as a going lot and I wanted to go to smartshield for transponder immobilisation because the ED is an easy target because smartlock was a bit of a wank on today's scale... At the time I thought I could go flip keys too but turns out the BA flip keys on ebay wont operate the AU door locks and I tried a Ford US mustang or the same era keypad and it too wont operate the falcon door locks...

I also wanted to go away from the smartlock door locks and to go something less groany as it locked and unlocked and hence that move and I also acquired dual stage unlocking...

The other thing I also wanted to get away from was the horrid remote reception I had on smartlock... The remotes only worked right next to the car... Smartshield works a block away...

None of this matters to you but... As far as running differences between S1-S3 I think there is bugger all difference... S2-S3 had a different TPS and coil pack... You can't buy Eagle 9mm leads to suit the AUII-III coilpack... SO I bought 10.5mm leads and made up clamps for the rocker cover...

I have the gregorys book which is fairly accurate for the AU and I am happy to extract pages for wiring from it and share them in here if you need help with anything... Within reason happy to try stuff on my car if you need help identifying anything... Big wiring changes between S1 & S2 in various places I found, so me having S2 may not be able to help if you get S1, some things may differ...

You'll gain sequential injection, the better map sensor... AU also has run dry technology... This wont work but if you don't run the temp sensor that screws into the head... If you could fit a whole AU motor you'd be better off because they have such a better bottom end it's not funny... So much smoother reving than the ED... Jaguar took a heap of bob weights off the AU crank shaft and you certainly know it when you drive one...

If you found a spare EL/XH loom to cut the cut the plug off that plugs into the dash it'd be easy to graft that into the EL loom and you use that to gain the 8inchs you need for extra length meaning only one join (I'm sparky, less joins = better)...

Hope that inspires some more...

Cheers,
Tim

the large sensor in a/c is temp.. if you disconnect it the fans run on full speed when a/c is on, but otherwise has no major effect

Troy to save the day...

Saves me investigating and then needing to clear the error code it builds...

Cheers man
Tim

thanks for the reply mate.

the aircon stuff sounds fine so far, if its a hassle later on ill change the compressor, but for now as long as stuff works its all good!

i just checked and the AU ecu has 20 free pins and of the pins used 8 of them are for stuff like LPG. so taking that into consideration plus the 8-10 extra wires i will run for injectors and other bits plus the left over wires from the dizzy, it all works out. i only need to add the few extra wires and then repin it all. the pins are the same, the plugs are larger.

i know what i'm doing with all sensors, thanks . i have a hybrid engine so it has the AU head which helps with the temp sensor and the EL timing case has provisions for the crank sensor. ill use AU sensors regardless, but i might see if EF works for the sake of it.

i do have ABS but ill cross that bridge when i need to.
when i asked about s1 2 3, i was more curious if i could say fit an S3 ECU into an S1 AU, but you answered that in saying there is different sensors.
security is no biggy cause it can be disabled with a J3, so its more about which ECU has better functionality with the better sensors etc. ill prob just got s3 for the sake of it also.

i understand the AU engine is better, ive had a few in the past. ive got 2 in my brothers factory, i will end up rebuilding one and fitting it, but for now the EL engine is fine.

i had a look at the AU loom and to me its easier to run just a few wires that i know what i'm doing what with rather than running and entire loom and trying to f**k around with everything else.

the guy that did the EF swap did it in a few hours so im hoping to do my research and do it in a day. just gotta start collecting sensors now, ive already got an AU loom and plug, ill get an ECU when i decide on s1 2 3.

thanks so much for your help. ill ask a few questions here and there, but sorry for clogging up your thread . ill post stuff in the other thread i made from now on.

Tell you what...

NA fairlane door sensors are like rocking horse s**t to try and find over the net...

The few people who have a car they're parting out just say they're too hard to remove and want nothing to do with it...

Somebody throw a bone here...

Maybe trying to butcher my NL sensors to get them apart yet... Even people with NL sensors are the same, don't want to remove them because it's too hard... Even if you offer to pay people for their time... Geez I hate living in the sticks sometimes... People offering parts and services only offer half the deal...

Also struggling to find the bracket that holds the clutch cable on the manual at the bellhousing... It's different to the ED one and I couldn't re-use it...

And a set of AU front upper arms

And wouldn't mind a S3 manual VCT computer because my S2 one still has the flat spot in it and not sure why... Other than that flat spot when cold it goes great hot... And has no DTC's at all...

Cheers,
Tim

I can get the sensors from the wreckers if you want?
Just need to show me what you so its easier for me to grab.

The clip apart door ajar sensors I've never ever seen but snap says the sensor on a Na Fairmont (or maybe da lane) come apart so you can easily mod the insides of them... They are a prick to get out... They clip into the side of the door latch mechanism... So you need to disconnect all the door rods and remove the anti theft plates and undo the three bolts to get the mechanism out of the door...

They are tricky to unclip and the tags are easy to break off... Need 4 of them...

I'd love to get the clutch cable bracket too if I could so it holds the clutch cable square to bell housing and doesn't wear it out...

If you open the high series cluster install into El in the tech docs up the top it shows them good... They are the ones I already have which don't apart as easily... The Na must look different...

Cheers

You obviously don't read my posts very well.

The bit about being in Sydney or the bit about getting the NL ones apart?

Tried with my spare NL one and ended up killing it... Not sure I want to do try again with the ones I need for the doors... Not sure how you cut the white plastic out and kept it neat enough to glue back in? My selection of tools available really aren't designed for cutting that out... Best I have to get in that few mm depth is probably a dremel and it isn't going to leave much to glue back in...



Cheers,
Tim

So im just wondering i will be doing this conversion in a day or so i want to use the au ecu and coil pack and everything do i just need all the engine bay loom and use eb fairmont ghia dash loom if so do i need a j3 chip in the ecu?

Depends what you want... I wanted functioning smartshield and dual stage unlocking as well as deleting the 100 thousand plugs the Ed has under the dash... I also wanted to get rid of the relays the Ed had stashed everywhere and fit the au relay fuse box near the battery... And I also managed to get rid of the convelute than over the top of the motor... So I fitted the entire looms... Everything except the boot loom...

Where misk who has a post of his own and commented above is using his El looms, repinning the computer plug and running some extra wires...

Is however you see easiest and what you want to achieve... Mine took months of setting in the spare parts car...

Cheers,
Tim

Are you fitting a sstandard AU Engine or a VCT?

It is a vct engine

And im getting the au ecu and loom and engine all from the same person so should i just get the dash loom aswell and it would be plug and play kinda thing and do i need a j3 chip if im using a different ignition barrel i just want to know if i need all the loom befor i go pick it up

Grab every thing you can. Much better to have more than you need than not enough and then waste time trying to track down the parts.